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freerider15
November 17th, 2017, 07:54
After having built a buggy, I've been longing for something simple again, to be able to enjoy the light wheeling, going camping (not because I'm wheeling), longer trips out again.

I've been through all the hoops of an XJ, and after building this:

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4558/26501050199_bb1c481bbb_c.jpg

This XJ should be a walk in the park...or so I "thought".

I'd been thinking about something with maybe 4.5" of lift and 32's, keeping it nice and clean. Well, a close friend of mine Sam (zluster on here), had bought an XJ at auction as a flip (repair and resell). Well, I'd always liked the Jeep (and it was in one of my top 3 colors - Patriot Blue), and had what I was looking for: Low miles, already had a 4.5" Full BDS Lift kit, and more.

So, after selling one XJ that I had for a while, I picked this up from him, since after a few years he hadn't had the time to get it fixed (since he had a real job now).

So enters, the new to me 2001 (and still the newest vehicle I've ever owned).

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4531/37767882854_3f3a1563bc_c.jpg

Specs:
- 2001 XJ - Patriot Blue
- ~105k miles
- Moab 16" wheels
- Brown Dog Motor Mounts
- Newer Aluminum Radiator
- BDS 4.5" Lift Kit
- HP D30 Swapped

Now, from that picture, all looks pretty good? Well, the fact of the matter is there was some pretty good damage to the passenger side. It looks like the previous owner (prior to Sam), had hit something hard enough with the front right tire to shove it up into the wheel well far enough that it cause some frame and floorwell damage, bent the upper arm mount on that side, and killed the LPD30.

So, I fixed the crossmember mount for Sam (before I bought it), he had done some other work, and swapped in a HP D30.

From there, it's all on me.

Since I've had this for a while, I've been able to acquire parts for...a lot less than MSRP mostly. I'll chronical some of it through the build.

As some know, I'm *rather* anal retentive. I don't like shoddy work, and this build won't be any different. I plan on doing some things a little different, with small touches that make a difference. After building the buggy, other than sheetmetal work...this will be a nice relaxation from custom one off everything :D.

Build plans for this rig (as of this post):

Front HP D30:
- Artec Truss - Acquired
- Zip Locker
- 4.10's
- Ten Factory Axle Seals - Acquired
- WJ Steering Setup - Have several parts acquired
- SOLID Diff Cover - Acquired
- New Coil buckets and LCA's (not quite like most setups however)

Rear: Ford 8.8 (Has 4.10's, Discs, and LSD)
- Complete new brakes
- Artec Truss - Acquired
- SOLID Diff Cover - Acquired
- Shock Mounts - Acquired
- TNT U-Bolt Eliminators - Acquired

Tires:
265/75R16 Goodyear Duratracs on 16" Moabs - Acquired

Other:
- 231J w/ SYE - Came with on rig
- Tera 2Low - Need to pull it out of donor case
- Boostwerks Hidden Winch Comp Mount - On my shelf :D
- Dirtbound Rear DIY Bumper (no cut/fold) - Acquired
- Dirtbound Front DIY Bumper - Acquired
- Smittybilt 8k winch w/ synthetic - Acquired
- Full Interior Sound deadening using three stage system (CLD + CCF + MLV)
- Bilstein 5150's front - Acquired
- Bilstein rears
- Tomken Gas Tank Skid - Acquired
- Offroad Armor Rock Rails - Acquired but will have to see if they'll work

So yeah, I've got a buttload of parts sitting in my upper deck area on the shop, ready to go on and get me some more room finally. I know I'm missing some of what I've got sitting up there, but I'll get around to it...

freerider15
November 17th, 2017, 07:55
So, a bit went on between the time I acquired the rig, and now.

Bought a house, continued to wheel, work on and build the buggy, and go married.

This was originally to be the wife's rig, but she now has a '96. This will allow us to take both out, the dogs, and get her back into wheeling (since we have two dogs she doesn't come out on buggy trips much at all).

So, from where I started, until today, unfortunately has been the bulk of the work. To make matters worse, this isn't the sexy, step back and go "hell yeah!" work...this has been getting it to square one-ish...bodywork.

So, I'll let pictures do some talking.

What I started out with. You can see how far that tire got pushed into the wheel well:

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4586/37725483154_cffe5d31be_c.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4563/37725482964_3024480bab_c.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4571/38373716656_ccec77f08e_c.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4571/38373716656_ccec77f08e_c.jpg

It's hard to tell somewhat from the pictures, but the frame in that area had seen better days. So what were the plans? Cutting, replacing, a bit of massaging, and frame stiffeners.

Mind you, I wanted this to be body shop good, with no body shop skills :laugh:

I refused to cut corners, and take my time. I won't lie, I've got probably over a hundred hours into this thing already from just bodywork.

Luckily, Sam had a donor XJ he was keeping at my house for a few, before he got a few more things off it and we took it to scrap. So, I robbed the section of floorboard I needed.

From there, LOTS of cutting, measuring (repeat that about 13454 times), welding, and so on.

So, first things first was some cutting to get at the root of things:

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4524/37725482684_cc1bdcde2c_c.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4544/38440284381_e8e8a50647_c.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4526/38384639306_c095b68df4_c.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4536/24558542548_14b419b367_c.jpg

Removed the LCA brackets with a spot weld bit, and you can kind of see the frame wrinkles in these pictures:

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4564/38384638926_ca9a774e89_c.jpg

I was able to use my oxy/acetylene torch, some hammers, and some hydraulics to get things pretty well smoothed back out, and looking good. Next was prep for the Passenger side frame stiffener. I used IRO, but had Josh at Hooligan had his released when I bought these, I would have gone with him.

Prep for the frame stiffener. Bright Idea to mark with a paint pen where paint needed to be removed to weld. Well, with my weld on primer that wasn't too bright of an idea.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4518/38384637266_96f948d0d8_c.jpg

This stuff is what I'm surprised I don't see more people using. Yeah, it's expensive at $30 a can, but so is replacing stuff because it's rusting from the inside out. Everything I do around this, get a coat of this stuff. Do it right once, and be DONE! :D

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4559/24569176898_888126255e_c.jpg

Getting bent up (wish they came bent to match, that's a PITA):

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4552/24569177118_4c8711ff54_c.jpg

Prepped (Inside Surface):

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4562/38440285341_3e2a65d9d7_c.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4577/24569176748_8cf0c2c2dd_c.jpg

And mounted/welded (it's been a while since I've welded to the unibody, got better as time went on):

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4555/38440285741_48fe7f459d_c.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4523/24569177008_79942903b6_c.jpg

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https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4584/24569176528_98775f0a3e_c.jpg

There were some fitment issues that had to be dealt with, some from the frame still, and never going to be, 100%, and then the stiffeners ran a little long in the flat plane on the bottom.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4583/38440284821_7596705570_c.jpg

All cleaned up (Flap Disc'd and Self Etching primer)

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4553/38440284661_207a48c012_c.jpg

Threw on some color match paint and called it done, for now.

freerider15
November 17th, 2017, 07:55
While that looked like "quick" work, that was probably several straight days of work to get to that point.

NOW came the time consumer...getting the floorboard and surrounding areas fixed.

The pinch seam had been pushed in, the trans tunnel had some waves on the passenger side, it was...hell.

Interior brace of the frame rail cut out for massaging:

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4517/37725571744_4f5ac23154_c.jpg

Redone with a thicker brace, all weld primed:

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4569/24569243228_fd20ba9c3d_c.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4562/26664160099_ac54b4131f_c.jpg

Then came the inner area and pinch seam. originally, I had planned on trying to pull this out and massage it some, since a bit of it would be covered by the fender.

Well, I decided against that and off I went...trying to be a body shop guy since I don't like compromise :laugh:

Old piece cut out and new one beginning to be grafted in:

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4543/24569243438_50333bdced_c.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4540/38384709916_694309e85f_c.jpg

Don't have a good complete pic at the moment it looks like. But that part took a while since I used a flashlight to find any and all pin holes, to make sure the weld seam was 100%.

Next came the floorboard...and what an adventure that was. This took some ingenuity, some bolts to hold things in areas...and more.

Prepped the floor, frame, and surrounding areas (the brace piece got stripped to primer and repainted, since some crap got on it while it was still wet. Yes, though it will never be seen again, I still repainted it).

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4573/37725562624_5bfc349aeb_c.jpg

And then it began. Where I had weld seams, since I don't trust thin sheet metal to thin sheet metal, I also added double ups along the seams (everything weld primed).

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4543/37725569704_ca9088e95c_c.jpg

Starting to get cleaned up:

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4529/38384709676_bf3b8321c3_c.jpg

Mostly complete with holes filled and things smoothed out:

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4544/38384708396_f756d25e7f_c.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4566/38384708226_4f4a9210c8_c.jpg

Next came copious amounts of seam sealer (on both sides). The bottom side of the floorboard and frame aren't really pictured, but lots of work on those sides as well.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4549/38384707896_27b03a831e_c.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4536/38384707786_6e6ddabd9c_c.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4550/38384707616_a667395d73_c.jpg

It then got a coat of color match paint (not pictured :D).

freerider15
November 17th, 2017, 07:56
Saving Post #3 :D

freerider15
November 17th, 2017, 08:49
So now that the floor was done, I could move onto other things.

I decided that since some of the frame damage was between the horizontal and transition to front section, mid-frame stiffeners would be good :D

Took a drive to see Josh at Hooligan, and headed home with some stiffeners.

The fit on the passenger side was good, not perfect though (not from his stuff, from the frame issues).

The driver's side, fit like a glove.

The entire frame got stripped via flap disks down to bare metal, weld primered, and so on.

Welding the stiffeners is farrrr easier with a flexible weld neck :D

Everything on the driver's side looks better, since it got done second.

Driver's side front and mid stiffeners, as well as passenger side mid stiffener:

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4541/38384709376_acfd4db290_c.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4550/38384709226_36588d52b7_c.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4543/38384709086_2793c79e1a_c.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4583/38384708906_76b9fc0bdb_c.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4554/24569242968_f8cbb65cbd_c.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4563/38384708736_bc885dc876_c.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4529/38384708526_52d46c6b65_c.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4582/37725565304_19b6544033_c.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4540/38384707406_c20d693e66_c.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4524/37725562284_c7c68b4c40_c.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4556/24569244698_055e0d7cac_c.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4576/37725563864_6e22437470_c.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4522/37725563594_a247e3265d_c.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4576/37725561874_d9360c165a_c.jpg

Missing some pictures but the front and mid frame stiffeners got tied together with fish plates, and everything got a coat of self etching primer.

A TON of work, in a small series of photos :laugh:

freerider15
November 17th, 2017, 09:06
So, that kinda sorta bring me to now. Those photos were a couple years worth of work time wise. As mentioned, quite a bit going on between those two.

Now, I plan on having this done by Spring, to get it out on the trails and have a 4x4 daily driver again.

It sat outside for a...while...while the buggy got some attention, and since the buggy lives where it's currently parked.

Got it pulled back in, and pulled all the interior out 100% (most of it was just sitting inside the rig disconnected, including the dash).

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4571/38259301566_75d45c1257_c.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4568/26653216019_35d4fcfb4b_c.jpg

Next steps are removing the sound deadening stuff that was OEM. (the foil backed pieces, as well as the trunk section and small sections over the wheel wells).

I made the mistake of trying this normally, forgot how tar-like this stuff is.

Then, I remember seeing some videos a couple months back...using Dry Ice and Isopropyl alcohol :D

Mix the two, pour it on top, and the stuff chisels right off. The foil backed stuff comes off FAR easier, but is still some work. The stuff in the trunk...the cracking of it is cool to hear, then it comes up in a matter of seconds.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4530/24558486078_2ed8d47955_c.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4566/26653211409_d8e22a9964_c.jpg

Old, crappy method:

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4564/24558482318_9ba2f95e09_c.jpg

New, much quicker and cleaner method:

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4558/37597415825_a608cc24c4_c.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4576/26708539889_01729569cb_c.jpg

So that's where I'm at now. I should have the small amount I have left pulled by the end of this weekend.

From there, it will get a full three stage sound deadening. Note, no matter how you do it (the proper way), its not cheap.

First to go down will be the CLD tiles. From there, closed cell foam and mass loaded vinyl. As well, door and headliner will receive (not right away) treatment including butyl rope and hydrophobic melamine. This will be the guinea pig before I do my tow rig at some point ('99 F-350 Superduty). The sound deadening will cost me in the neighborhood of $600+. I'm not using the generic Dynamat, Fatmat, etc.

smokeyyank
November 17th, 2017, 12:59
Dude, your work is always top notch! Will be excited to see how this rig turns out.

freerider15
November 17th, 2017, 13:17
Dude, your work is always top notch! Will be excited to see how this rig turns out.

Thanks, hopefully it moves pretty quickly once the interior is done. I won't lie, putting the heater core and dash back in (properly) I'm not looking forward to.

I noticed something in one of my pictures...yes, I did at one point use two Optima Red Tops as tire chocks, that's about what they're good for :laugh:

That being said, since I have a brand new one that I got for pretty well free...it's going in.

Kittrell
November 17th, 2017, 16:54
I won't lie, putting the heater core and dash back in (properly) I'm not looking forward to.

I'm a seasoned pro, let me know if you need a hand. P.S. Do not put anything but the Mopar heater core in there.

trippled
November 17th, 2017, 18:47
Are we actually going to see you on some trail runs now?

I need to get some of that primer. How is actually welding to it? No difference? Looks like it'll be a good capable rig.

POSJ
November 17th, 2017, 18:54
I’m really excited to watch this build...your buggy thread was awesome.

freerider15
November 18th, 2017, 09:15
I'm a seasoned pro, let me know if you need a hand. P.S. Do not put anything but the Mopar heater core in there.

I very well might. I'll see if Sam can't swing over and help some, beer tends to help with that :D

I'm on the fence with the heater core. The one in there isn't very high mileage, but I also don't want to have to pull it again. But, I'm also not sure I can swallow the $400 or so for a Mopar unit...

Are we actually going to see you on some trail runs now?

I need to get some of that primer. How is actually welding to it? No difference? Looks like it'll be a good capable rig.

Hey now, I've been on plenty of trail runs...just with rigs with a bit more tube :D

Welding to it honestly is no different than normal. Since it's copper based, it has an excellence weld ability. I've gone through about 1.5 cans between the Front and Mid stiffeners, and the floor board stuff. To me, it was $45 well spent. I get mine locally, though it can be had through Amazon prime last I checked. I'm not a fan of some of the other weld primers I've seen used.

Im really excited to watch this build...your buggy thread was awesome.

Thanks!

freerider15
January 30th, 2018, 10:02
Well, this has been moving along lately with interior stuff...mainly since I have to drive it out of the shop (my requirement), to bring the buggy in.

Seeing as EJS is less than two months away, I need to get prep work done on the buggy, tow rig and trailer before. Tick tock!!!

I'll get some pictures up possibly tomorrow or tonight.

The interior was stripped cleaned, wire brushed in some areas and some paint laid down.

CLD tiles were install on the floor, rear cargo area, rear quarter panels and dash.

I should have the last of the Mass Loaded Vinyl (MLV) and Closed Cell Foam (CCF) applied throughout this evening.

Currently the doors will be revisited later.

Once I have the carpet, heater box, and dash back in, I'll go ahead and drop the headliner.

I've got 3M Thinsulate Acoustic (SM600L) for the rear quarters and the roof.

Once the interior is all wrapped up, the "real" work should go rather quick, since that stuff is easier to me than the interior stuff.

There will be some exhaust modifications, but what I'm doing and such won't be shown on NAXJA. Those with keen eyes might notice some differences.

Once that's done, I'll get some things buttoned up so it's drive able and road worthy.

Then I'll get started on the 8.8 build followed by the D30.

I could get both of those builds done in a couple long weekends in reality.

freerider15
February 5th, 2018, 11:29
Finally got the interior sound deadening for the floor and firewall complete.

I've got the headliner ready to drop down and get CLD tiles on the roof, and then back the headliner with 3M Thinsulate Acoustic.

The sound deadening wasn't too bad, just tedious and time consuming.

I can go into more detail, and my methods of doing it if anyone is interested.

It's much like the Sound Deadening Showdown method, with a couple tweaks that to me, made install easier and more efficient.

Pics:

Interior pretty well cleaned up, all OEM deadening and butyl tiles removed:

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4723/26229381868_52c81769eb_c.jpg

CLD Tiles installed, sorry I realized this is the only picture I got. I wen't a little more overboard then really needed.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4612/26229381618_ee3578c84d_c.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4656/26229024478_394d03f87d_c.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4748/26229022578_81ac0ebcb7_c.jpg

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https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4622/26229030338_fce71f2996_c.jpg

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https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4767/26229028008_59259172c1_c.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4743/28322324019_6bc2c58bc0_c.jpg

While I'm doing the headliner, I've also got the Heater Box torn apart.

Going to make all new foam seals, and give it a good once over and clean up inside and out. I looked at the heater core, still looks just fine, and isn't clogged. No leaks on it, so it'll go back in. The evaporator looks great as well, so right now no changes to the heater box really needed.

Hoping to get the following done this week:

- Headliner/Roof sound deadening
- Rear Quarter sound deadening
- Heater Box Re-Installed
- All Carpet and Trim back in
- Dash re-installed.

From there, some exhaust stuff and fuel clean out and she should be ready to start up again!

kmanxj5050
February 5th, 2018, 12:39
Wow!! great work.

I've recently been working on a similar project on an off. Gave up my wheeling rig about two years ago. Bought my wife a 01 to DD last spring. Just did a 4.5" lift and some JK take offs a couple months ago.

What are you using to post these photos?

freerider15
February 5th, 2018, 13:12
Wow!! great work.

I've recently been working on a similar project on an off. Gave up my wheeling rig about two years ago. Bought my wife a 01 to DD last spring. Just did a 4.5" lift and some JK take offs a couple months ago.

What are you using to post these photos?

After the photobucket hostile takeover, I'm using Flikr. Hopefully this lasts a bit.

I'm nor savvy enough nor have enough time to do the whole "host them on my own server" deal.

DutchVDub
February 5th, 2018, 20:02
That's a lot of work to fix the floor, kudos to you. I'd have just crumbled it up and found another, although admittedly they're getting harder to find.

freerider15
February 5th, 2018, 22:31
That's a lot of work to fix the floor, kudos to you. I'd have just crumbled it up and found another, although admittedly they're getting harder to find.

Well, it's one of my three top colors, has a low low mileage engine, and already has everything else and barely a spec of rust. Trying to find one this clean other than the floor would have set me back the same if not more.

Got the heater box back together with new foam seals.

Hopefully it should be back in tomorrow, then onto the headliner.

Starboard M
February 6th, 2018, 15:53
Are you concerned about moisture between the body and the MVL? How is it attached, some sort of spray glue?

How much MVL did you get, and from where? More details, more!

Kittrell
February 6th, 2018, 21:47
You have a Dirtbound center console bracket ready to go, yes?

freerider15
February 7th, 2018, 08:17
Are you concerned about moisture between the body and the MVL? How is it attached, some sort of spray glue?

How much MVL did you get, and from where? More details, more!

Not concerned about moisture much at all. The MLV is waterproof (being vinyl), and the CCF is pretty water resistant.

See post below for more information on stuff and things :D

You have a Dirtbound center console bracket ready to go, yes?

Actually JCR :laugh:

I had a $50 Cert to JCR, so I got one of their center console brackets, since the one in this Jeep was...surprise surprise...broken.

Got it installed last night!

freerider15
February 7th, 2018, 08:35
So, to give a brief overview, the MLV and CCF are not really adhered to the body. The only thing holding them in place (and doing a rather fine job of it), are the physical weight and velcro strips.

First step is to strip the body down, and get it cleaned up. I first used a spray bottle and a shop vac to get up a bunch of dust and dirt. From there, it all got wiped down with mineral spirits.

Then came the CLD (Constrained Layer Dampening) tiles. These are a butyl back pieces, that have adhesive and get placed to cover ~25% (I went more, though I didn't really *need* to) to cut down on resonance and vibration. I used a knuckle method, knocking everywhere I could and applying the CLD in areas that sounded hollow, flexed more, etc.

One this is done, the real fun begins.

I cut the MLV in sections, making my way through the cab. Prior to pulling the MLV out, I would push against it and mark areas that were flat, so that double sided velcro would adhere. Once I had areas fitted and marked for where to place velcro, I pulled the MLV out.

Once it was out, I would lay it on the CCF and cut out a piece to match. Then, I cut 1" x 2" or so sections of velcro and placed them on the MLV as I had marked.

Then, feel through the CCF and mark where to cut holes for the velcro, and cut the holes out.

Use some Vinyl Cement, and add some small dabs to both in the same (mirrored) areas, and let cure until tacky. Then place them together and pat them center out, so that both pieces lay nice and flat.

From there, place it where it was, and strategically pull the other velcro adhesive cover off, and press in place.

Here's some pictures that might help:

MLV on bottom with velcro and some Vinyl Cement, Mirrored CCF on top with cements as well.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4666/26229036508_08887b2f94_c.jpg

Them put together and letting cure for a few minutes:

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4711/26229035258_21f9afa3c0_c.jpg

From there, they get applied to look like this, before gap strips are placed:

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4698/26229037778_6405edd713_c.jpg

freerider15
February 7th, 2018, 09:02
Now, for a materials list...

I kind of based my stuff off what Sound Deadener Showdown had (they have a list for XJ's, provided by someone who did it previously). I would highly recommend that site to anyone curious to get an idea, see pictures, etc. I would have gotten everything from there, but his prices are a bit higher, and the shipping was...a LOT.

As a note, I did a LOT, and I mean a LOT of shopping around. Here's what I went with.

CLD Tiles:

I looked around, and settled on the following, they've got good reviews around the web, and this isn't a high end car:

Noico 80 mil 36 sqft car Sound deadening mat

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00URUIKAK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I got one. I *should* have enough to do the roof, doors, and hatch with what I have left.

$65.60

Mass Loaded Vinyl:

1lb/sqft, 1/8" thickness, Qty: 100 sqft.

I got mine for $154 shipped before some discount off eBay ($15 off $75 or more).

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1lb-Mass-Loaded-Vinyl-4-x-25-100-sf-roll-Soundproofing-Acoustic-Barrier-MLV/121596772331?hash=item1c4fbb7feb:g:Nb4AAOSweW5U568 c

I've still got a bit of roll left. In theory I could measure it by weight, as each sq. ft. is 1 lb.

That 100 lb. roll was a pain to move :laugh:

Closed Cell Foam:

There were quite a few places that were close, but I went through The Foam Factory (www.foambymail.com) .

Neoprene Foam Sheets
Density: High Quality
Thickness: 1/8" Thick
SheetSize: 80" x 48"
Qty. 5

$119.95

I also got the following for Heater Box Seals:

Cross Linked Polyethylene - 2LB
Thickness: 1"
SheetSize: 48" x 24"
Color: Charcoal
Qty. 1
$26.99

Velcro

I originally got one box, but actually ended up needing two (have lots of leftovers)

VELCRO Brand - Industrial Strength - 2" Wide Tape, 15' - White

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006HWYJM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

$19 each x 2 = $38

3M Thinsulate Acoustic

I got this for the roof and rear quarters. In reality it's good for wherever you can stuff it. What doesn't find it's way into the roof and rear quarters, will be used in the doors.

I got 10' x 5' of it, for 50 total feet. $136.62 before some of the same eBay discounts.

Here's the only place I could find it "retail". Looking around, this stuff is some of the best, of the best:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3M-Thinsulate-TM-SM600L-Acoustic-Thermal-Automotive-Insulation-for-van-and-car/131754566187?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Contact Cement

I got the stuff recommended by SDS, HH-66 Vinyl Contact Cement.

Cheapest I found it was Tarpstop.com, I got two since they were cheaper (in case).

$40.31 shipped.

Other things:
Butyle Rope (mainly for doors and hatch) - $16.90
Roller (for installing CLD) - $10

So, total cost currently is (not factoring in the eBay discounts): ~$607.75.

Yep, I realize that's far more that 99% of XJ owners are willing to spend, but for me the interior was already out, and I wanted a nice quiet rig. I'll be able to compare an "OEM" XJ (zluster's) to this one to see decibel difference. I also plan on running a Walker Quiet Flow as well. Installed one on the wife's '96, and I like it.

So there...expensive and a bit of work :laugh:

BALTANAKT
February 7th, 2018, 19:03
Man, this is awesome.

I am trying to restore an XJ and have been planning to spend some time this summer on the interior and sound deadening. Have no clue what I am doing in this department so I will be following this thread.

freerider15
February 8th, 2018, 11:17
Man, this is awesome.

I am trying to restore an XJ and have been planning to spend some time this summer on the interior and sound deadening. Have no clue what I am doing in this department so I will be following this thread.

I really honestly had no clue, just jumped in and went. It's not rocket science, it just takes time and persistence.

freerider15
February 8th, 2018, 11:23
Old heater core out, with it's less than stellar foam seals:

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4749/40155796661_9ca55e71b3_c.jpg

Torn apart:

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4706/40123204272_3bfd602990_c.jpg

Back together with new foam seals, and cleaned up inside and out:

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4702/40155795741_e0c9bbfcee_c.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4670/40123203882_c175339b75_c.jpg

Back in, and the dash hanging as of last night.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4615/40123203412_7f143f03d2_c.jpg

The dash was still a little wet and from getting hosed off and cleaned earlier that day...so I moved onto stripping the engine:

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4603/28375514759_95170b1e60_c.jpg

I've done enough of these I could do a head gasket in a day. This will just be a FULL Preventative Maintenance overhaul, outside of actually doing the head gasket.

Once I get my hot water line in the shop fixed, it will get pushed outside for a good engine bay clean down and coolant system flush.

trippled
February 8th, 2018, 11:25
I was looking at the CLD you used on Amazon. Did the packaging have anything about temperature rating? I need to insulate my trans tunnel to keep some heat down in the summer, and the CLD with some of the foam will probably help since there is pretty much zero interior.

Awesome work as usual tho. Looks like it'll make quite a difference.

freerider15
February 8th, 2018, 11:38
The foil backed butyl on Amazon should be more than capable of withstanding those temps. Its the "same" stuff that sits relatively close to the exhaust that's OEM (the stuff I froze and chiseled off).

I can't imagine these are that much different than the SDS ones.

From SDS, the specs of those are 400F+ for 8 hours+. So, even at 60% of that stuff, it should be fine.

deesiexj
February 8th, 2018, 14:21
Thanks for all the detail on the sound deadening. I need to do some floor repair at some point in the next few months, and adding some quality sound deadening is on the list for the same time. I'll be interested to see the decibel difference between yours and a stock interior

Ralph77
February 8th, 2018, 22:58
Thinking I have a leaking Evap which is why my AC is not working properly. Dreading taking the dash apart to fix this. Been thinking about the foam seals. If I missed it I apologize but could you supply a link to what you used?

freerider15
February 9th, 2018, 08:05
Thanks for all the detail on the sound deadening. I need to do some floor repair at some point in the next few months, and adding some quality sound deadening is on the list for the same time. I'll be interested to see the decibel difference between yours and a stock interior

Yeah I'll be curious to see.

Thinking I have a leaking Evap which is why my AC is not working properly. Dreading taking the dash apart to fix this. Been thinking about the foam seals. If I missed it I apologize but could you supply a link to what you used?

https://www.foambymail.com/XPE2/cross-linked-polyethylene-foam-2lb.html

1" thick in Charcoal color.

For the firewall, it's great.

For the HVAC stuff, it caused some pain in getting the heater core in, and then the dash. I'd say something more spongy than this (it compacts, but not as easily as the stock stuff) would be better. I had to trim the thickness on two of the gaskets to get it in, and the dash to sit right.

Ralph77
February 9th, 2018, 11:50
https://www.foambymail.com/XPE2/cross-linked-polyethylene-foam-2lb.html

1" thick in Charcoal color.

For the firewall, it's great.

For the HVAC stuff, it caused some pain in getting the heater core in, and then the dash. I'd say something more spongy than this (it compacts, but not as easily as the stock stuff) would be better. I had to trim the thickness on two of the gaskets to get it in, and the dash to sit right.

Thanks for the link and the insight. I want to say the foam for the heater box from Jeep runs about $60. I notice they come in different thicknesses. Do you think 3/4" might be a better choice just for the heater box gaskets? Figure even with shipping the 3/4 is about $33.

freerider15
February 9th, 2018, 13:54
Thanks for the link and the insight. I want to say the foam for the heater box from Jeep runs about $60. I notice they come in different thicknesses. Do you think 3/4" might be a better choice just for the heater box gaskets? Figure even with shipping the 3/4 is about $33.

Kinda 50/50 there.

I would have probably tried 3/4".

The $60 kit from Jeep might be worth it, but I've *heard* of slight fitment issues.

It took me some time to get mine traced, retraced, cut out with cardboard, cut, then trimmed to where they were.

Ralph77
February 9th, 2018, 14:42
Again thank you for the insight. Being winter just trying to lay some ground work for upcoming projects in the Spring. Between your pictures and my parts catalog I have an idea of the part #'s of all the seals. Now just try to decide which way to go.

freerider15
February 19th, 2018, 08:24
Again thank you for the insight. Being winter just trying to lay some ground work for upcoming projects in the Spring. Between your pictures and my parts catalog I have an idea of the part #'s of all the seals. Now just try to decide which way to go.

Yeah, either way works. I like the stuff I bought better for the firewall, but would have chosen differently for the interior, not that it didn't end up working just fine.

freerider15
February 19th, 2018, 08:48
Well, I've been making some progress, getting the engine done over and taken care of.

Got a few hundred $ worth of stuff from Rock Auto and Advance, and got to work.

Things done this weekend:

- Engine bay cleaned up
- New Waterpump and Tube
- New Tstat Housing and T-stat
- New Heater Hoses
- New Valve Cover Gasket and Grommets
- New Exhaust Manifold and Intake/Exhaust Manifold Gasket
- Throttle Body gasket
- New Air Filter
- New Belt
- POR-15 and Paint in Areas
- New Alternator
- Battery Cable Upgrade Install

Still to do:

- Flush radiator
- Install Radiator and new hoses
- Install New Fan Shroud
- Install New Fuel Injector O-Rings

Engine bay pretty well stripped and ready for cleaning. Everything that comes out, gets scrubbed and clean. That includes mechanical and electric fans, air box, battery box, etc. etc.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4746/39464868495_6c3c9541e3_c.jpg

Intake Manifold needing a clean:

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4710/39651065664_bbc6a61162_c.jpg

I pushed it outside, and hooked up the pressure washer. I have hot water in my shop, plumbed from the house.

If you think a regular pressure washer is good at getting dirt off, a pressure washer with how water...is a whole lot better.

I sprayed it down pretty good once, and let everything dry. I came back a couple days later and briefly scrubbed with soap in a brush where I could reach. It wasn't perfect, and I could spend a lot more time cleaning, but I decided getting it back together was a bit more important.

Got a new exhaust manifold:

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4747/38551881480_6d0e2d4db9_c.jpg

Pressure washed it, wiped it down with mineral spirits, then applied VHT High Temp Paint:

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4761/38551880210_1d3b5cf2e6_c.jpg

Got the manifold bolts cleaned up and some paint thrown on them.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4757/39464866185_510c346dab_c.jpg

Most of the way back in and there:

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4765/38551878860_45a831ecec_c.jpg

Rockers looked nice and clean when I pulled the cover:

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4657/39464865185_9180fc1b73_c.jpg

Not too far off now!

freerider15
February 19th, 2018, 08:55
As mentioned, I got a new alternator installed.

There wasn't anything wrong with the old one, but I wanted something better than stock.

So, in my perusing around, I came across an alternator somewhat commonly swapping in, for far cheaper than normal on Amazon.

ACDelco 334-1446, Durango 5.9L - 160 Amps

Was able to score it for ~$115 on Amazon.

Install wasn't too bad. It's bigger than stock, so the bracket needs to be ground some.

Got the bracket modified, and threw some paint back on it.

Here's the only picture I got of it installed:

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4760/39464867365_46ecc7a610_c.jpg

You can see some POR-15 in the picture as well. Below the battery box is an area the always seems to be a magnet for rust. I wire wheeled it and put on some POR-15. One spot might need to be cut out and redone at a later time.

freerider15
February 19th, 2018, 09:10
So, the other thing I got taken care of, was a battery cable upgrade.

I bartered some LED stuff with XJWonders (MeanLemons Battery Cables), for a 2AWG set.

It took me a few hours to get it all in place, as I'm a bit attentive to making routing as clean as possible without the cable touching things, firmly secured, etc.

My "review"

Pros:

- Great Crimps
- Great cable
- Comes with everything needed (mostly)

Cons:

- Was shipped two negative battery terminals
- In some areas, I would have made the cable different
- The cable lug end meant for the alternator, didn't fit my stock stud or the new Alternators stud.

I'll add some pictures:

Connected to the alternator, I added a rubber wire boot (I've got a bunch of spare electrical stuff). The stock plastic cover wouldn't fit on the 2AWG. I had to drill out the lug to fit on the alternator stud.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4606/39464863155_ee7d3641d7_c.jpg

Final routing. Not the "most" ideal as I'd have it laid out, but it will work just fine.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4675/38551874200_4de271de13_c.jpg

I drilled and mounted the fuse holder along the fenderwell.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4659/39464861655_98d287615f_c.jpg

I used some MLV underneath it for a couple reasons:

- The plastic plugs on the bottom of the stud terminals kept falling off, this this will prevent an unwanted grounding of the terminals on the fender.

- As the fender is not fully flat, it allows some cushion and vibration dampening to the fuse holder box.

Line to the Alternator (red), and line to the starter (inside wire sheath). I affixed the starter cable inside some new plastic sheathing, and then mounted it with a rubber lined clamp to an existing hole there. I zip tied the alternator cable to that plastic sheathing, as well the the A/C line (with some hose spiced around the A/C line as a barrier/protection from rubbing).

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4724/39651066334_6514c55946_c.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4708/39464860695_6b489432e7_c.jpg

On my buggy, all lines like these were sheathed in Fire Sleeve. I was going to do that on these as well since I a bunch extra, but didn't end up doing it. I might in the future, as electrical and electrical caused fires...are no joke.

Cover trimmed and reinstalled:

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4614/39464859695_4d92a22966_c.jpg

Some of the main cable changed I would have made, were cables that went from the battery, to the PDC, and from the Fuse to the PDC. I would have made these much shorter jumpers, as you can see in the last picture they're kind of "twirled".

However, I do realize this added length allows for some flexibility in mounting locations.

I was going to cut the wires and make them shorter, but realized all my lugs were sizes other than 2AWG, and I didn't feel like running to the store to get some.

Also, not pictured is the new block ground, from the engine to the fire wall.

The thicker 2AWG wire definitely makes routing a bit harder, since it doesn't bend as easy, thus tight turns aren't possible.

That being said, it's what I had planned on making, and it's a well built kit.

freerider15
February 22nd, 2018, 10:55
I've about got the engine wrapped up...it's been in the single digits, or below zero lately.

Though I can heat my shop, it also start to hurt the wallet doing it every night.

I noticed my steering pump return line was crimped, so that has been pulled and in the process of replacing. I'll be doing a full flush before connecting the line back up.

I went to try and flush the fuel system since it's been sitting so long. Went to jumper the fuel pump via the relay...nadda.

Did some looking through, and decided to see if the pump was getting power. it was, so it looks like a new pump is in order.

The pump was actually replaces by my friend I got the Jeep from. It had sat long enough that the pump died. Appears to have happened again.

Since I plan on keeping this Jeep, I'll get a full Bosch Assembly and drop it in.

Other than that all I need to do it throw in the radiator, fill it up, and in theory it should be back to running.

Once I know it runs, I'll get the rest of the interior and body slammed back in and on :D

PhotoJared
February 22nd, 2018, 16:17
I've about got the engine wrapped up...it's been in the single digits, or below zero lately.

Though I can heat my shop, it also start to hurt the wallet doing it every night.

I noticed my steering pump return line was crimped, so that has been pulled and in the process of replacing. I'll be doing a full flush before connecting the line back up.

I went to try and flush the fuel system since it's been sitting so long. Went to jumper the fuel pump via the relay...nadda.

Did some looking through, and decided to see if the pump was getting power. it was, so it looks like a new pump is in order.

The pump was actually replaces by my friend I got the Jeep from. It had sat long enough that the pump died. Appears to have happened again.

Since I plan on keeping this Jeep, I'll get a full Bosch Assembly and drop it in.

Other than that all I need to do it throw in the radiator, fill it up, and in theory it should be back to running.

Once I know it runs, I'll get the rest of the interior and body slammed back in and on :D

How big is your shop?

I have a two car garage and when its pretty cold I fire up two of these on high and it heats the garage in about 20-30 minutes. I got them at Costco for much less than the Amazon price. Then again I'm not heating from near 0 temps. I'm heating from the 30s-40s.


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M8NLKT1/ref=asc_df_B01M8NLKT15380267/?tag=pda0ea-20&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B01M8NLKT1&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198075783498&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2677826865570076118&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9030824&hvtargid=pla-368936894111&camp=1789

freerider15
February 22nd, 2018, 20:28
How big is your shop?

I have a two car garage and when its pretty cold I fire up two of these on high and it heats the garage in about 20-30 minutes. I got them at Costco for much less than the Amazon price. Then again I'm not heating from near 0 temps. I'm heating from the 30s-40s.


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M8NLKT1/ref=asc_df_B01M8NLKT15380267/?tag=pda0ea-20&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B01M8NLKT1&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198075783498&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2677826865570076118&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9030824&hvtargid=pla-368936894111&camp=1789

My shop is 25' x 35', 11' at the eaves. Nothing massive, but nothing all that small either.

I've actually got a natural gas plumbed heater in the shop, complete with thermostat and everything. It'll heat the shop up to 70 if I want it.

It's not *that* expensive to run, but can double the heating bill if kept on for long periods of time (i.e. keeping the shop above freezing for the month).

It's somewhere it the mid-single digits right now, and I just had it at 40* while Sam (zluster) was over. It'll make it more comfortable to work by far, just takes time to get it up to a temp worth working in.

DutchVDub
February 22nd, 2018, 20:47
Is this thing done yet? October is right around the corner. :D

freerider15
February 23rd, 2018, 08:04
Is this thing done yet? October is right around the corner. :D

"Done" to what level? :D

New fuel pump, an exhaust system setup, radiator put in...and it "should" run.

From there...not sure when I'll really get to the build items.

Need a couple things on the buggy done, and then the house needs a bit of things I've put off.

Building the axles is going to be an "at night" kinda thing most likely.

It does feel nice to get parts off the shelf...

DutchVDub
February 23rd, 2018, 10:13
Sounds to me like you need to have a BBQ

freerider15
February 23rd, 2018, 10:33
Sounds to me like you need to have a BBQ

Ironically, the big project coming up is a paver patio with pergola...for a BBQ for friends staying with us for a couple weeks.

If the XJ isn't done in the next week-ish...its getting pushed outside so the buggy can come in. EJS is only a month away, and I'd like to be well prep'd for it.

The exhaust wont be bad. New muffler, add in a flex pipe, add in a disconnect flange, and lengthen some O2 sensor connector wiring. The fuel pump can be done in a couple hours. If I had everything here, I could have it all done this weekend.

In reality, it will probably just be a lot of late nights and long days between now and the 24th of March.

freerider15
March 5th, 2018, 08:41
Well,

I've been cranking on this to say the least. Need to get working on the buggy, so this thing needs out!

So, got the power steering flushed through real well. Flush over a gallon through.

I used a combination of the wheels elevated to turn, and a way to turn the PS pump (something I learned from bleeding my full hydro system).

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4783/40636414151_a8a1b32710_c.jpg

Turn the wheels half a dozen to dozen times, then run the pump (slowly) to flush. Repeat for what seems like eternity :laugh:

Did some wiring harness "unmending" for O2 Sensors.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4704/26764994768_99052fc5ef_c.jpg

Pretty well there:

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4615/39926092274_0888c859a9_c.jpg

It got loomed and put all back in the rail cover after.

Dirtbound Steering Box Spacer got welded up and painted. Not my finest welding/painting, but it was late, I was tired, and no one's going to see it.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4612/39926086354_68eb7c14c3_c.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4655/26764993228_4609ab3835_c.jpg

I did have to take some material off the bottom corner, and the front top corner for mine to sit right.

I went to install it, and the bolts were just not going in like they should. Even my 1/2" impact didn't want to make them go. So, since I didn't want to risk snapping a bolt or breaking the box...out came the taps. Retapped and threaded (really just cleaning up the threads) of the steering box and the bolts. Went together like a charm after.

Still a pain though since the steering box isn't the most tap friendly location.

freerider15
March 5th, 2018, 08:50
So, then came the fuel pump. Oh man...

Got the tank dropped without too much issue.

Then some goodies arrived:

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4787/39926086394_3a86cdee8b_c.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4611/40594532582_00b9fc7816_c.jpg

Yukon Zip Locker for the D30, Bosch Fuel Pump, an exhaust Flex Pipe, and a Walker Quietflow SS Muffler.

Pulled the fuel pump, and yeah...I'd say it would make sense why it wasn't working:

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4771/26764993608_0579bcf837_c.jpg

Yummy...

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4621/40594536992_8d3289ba9e_c.jpg

The filter sock was just floating around in there, with some nice green gook in it.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4650/39926090364_7cc45dae61_c.jpg

So, I cleaned the tank out really well. There was so much crap floating around in there, it was rather disgusting.

So I got the hose, and flushed it out fully a few times with hot water, until no debris or anything could be seen. Then, I wiped the interior by hand with shop towels. Nice and clean after!

Got the tank itself cleaned up, and the new pump installed. I will say, that damn white rings and the new fuel pump wanted to fight me. Took me 10 minutes to get it installed when it should have taken two :laugh:

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4745/40636413821_f8492ed581_c.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4789/26764994128_c30613e68c_c.jpg

So, then came so work needed. This Jeep overall is really clean, but it is still 17ish years old. So, there's some minor rust to take care of on the underside in spots.

The hole where the vent and filler necks come through was bad:

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4618/40594537872_f265d8932d_c.jpg

Took a wire wheel on a drill, and went to town. Got it as cleaned up as it was going to get:

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4785/39926090794_f0ac3f625a_c.jpg

And then, out came the POR-15. There were some other minor areas I hit since I was already there. Figured a little prevention now would save a lot of headache later:

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4664/26764993358_ef3010bb75_c.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4697/39926089974_7bd73bb7d8_c.jpg

I let it dry for a couple days, wiped it all down with Mineral Spirits, masked it off, and threw a few coats of paint on:

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4616/39926089214_d710a1cfb1_c.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4781/40594535682_56af583ee9_c.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4649/26764993038_7f1cea793a_c.jpg

Tank got reinstalled, and works like a charm again.

freerider15
March 5th, 2018, 09:06
So, now that the engine was pretty well there, and the fuel system was taken care of, time to get on the exhaust.

The section from the header to the back of the cat took about half a day. I was in and out a dozen times, getting up and down probably well over 100 times. I added the flex pipe it to help prevent any future cracking of the exhaust manifold. Getting the flex pipe installed, also helps a lot with getting it back in.

I did the following:
- Cut off and reinstall the hanger (which took some of the pipe with it, hence the patch)
- Cut a notch in front of the Cat to get some better clearance
- Cut off, clean up, and weld the old Cat flange to the one going in.

Once everything was in place, the entire thing got wire wheeled, pressure washed, wiped with mineral spirits, and painted in high temp VHT Paint.

Flex Pipe location:

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4668/26764992618_fef4a488c1_c.jpg

General setup, with a little better clearance than stock:

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4789/39926088694_949c4b4edd_c.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4752/40594535222_142e406392_c.jpg

All together:

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4653/39926087684_15ac5a9c7e_c.jpg

Weld are all quick tack-tack. Hold just fine, is air tight, and I risk blowing through a lot less. Exhaust and body (thin sheet)...I hate welding:

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4776/40594534282_6c7fc985d6_c.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4753/39926088104_7eceb7bf0c_c.jpg

All painted up:

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4612/40594533882_629278bd73_c.jpg

I got it back in for final installation.

The muffler and rear exhaust pipe aren't fully in yet. I need to pull the rear pipe, give it the same cleaning, and get the rear hanger by the shackles taken care of.

Boostwerks.com
March 5th, 2018, 09:09
That fuel pump looks delicious. :wierd:

DutchVDub
March 5th, 2018, 09:20
You are putting a lot of effort into that XJ, kudos. It looks to be coming along very nicely. I like how you did the exhaust.

freerider15
March 5th, 2018, 09:49
So, not that the exhuast was in enough, to get the O2 sensors plugged back in, I got the radiator remounted, hoses put on, and the system filled.

And, IT RUNS AGAIN!

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4706/38826261900_0cc9d7614f_c.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4778/39926087104_771b64670c_c.jpg

Check engine light cleared after letting it run, shutting it off, letting it cool down, and repeat (mainly to bleed the cooling system).

Seems to run just fine now as far as I can tell.

I still have a bit of stuff to put back together with it, to get it to driving status, but it's only about a weekend's worth of work away from being there.

I'll be in Vegas next weekend for a wedding, and then there's only a couple weeks until EJS.

So, I'll see how much I'm able to work in it between now and then.

Lots of sleepless nights to come!

freerider15
March 5th, 2018, 09:51
That fuel pump looks delicious. :wierd:

Yeah, I threw in some fuel system cleaner (Berrymans B-12) in with the fresh gas. I then primed the fuel system a dozen times or so to help clean out the lines. Didn't want any of that crap fouling up the injectors.

You are putting a lot of effort into that XJ, kudos. It looks to be coming along very nicely. I like how you did the exhaust.

It's been a whirlwind lately with it. So glad to have it move able on it's own for sure.

stockerwithalocker
March 13th, 2018, 18:43
Yukon Zip Locker for the D30, Bosch Fuel Pump, an exhaust Flex Pipe, and a Walker Quietflow SS Muffler.



Where did you order the Bosch replacement pump at? For my 93 I've been searching for a complete assembly from Bosh with no luck.

trippled
March 13th, 2018, 21:08
Where did you order the Bosch replacement pump at? For my 93 I've been searching for a complete assembly from Bosh with no luck.

He has the newer style that's called the pump module. The older ones are separate from the sender unless you buy the cheapo complete ones.

BALTANAKT
May 10th, 2018, 19:50
@freerider15

Have you taken any photos of the work you did on the hatch?

You mentioned butyl rope, as well. How were you planning on using it?

freerider15
May 10th, 2018, 22:12
@freerider15

Have you taken any photos of the work you did on the hatch?

You mentioned butyl rope, as well. How were you planning on using it?

It honestly hasn't moved progress wise since those last pictures, except about being moved 20 feet away.

I have some repairs to do on the truck and buggy first, then I'll get back to going on this full steam, hopefully next month.

Housework that got put off getting ready for EJS, has been getting done the last month or two :laugh:

BALTANAKT
May 11th, 2018, 06:44
It honestly hasn't moved progress wise since those last pictures, except about being moved 20 feet away.

I have some repairs to do on the truck and buggy first, then I'll get back to going on this full steam, hopefully next month.

Housework that got put off getting ready for EJS, has been getting done the last month or two :laugh:

Not enough hours in the day. :sunshine:

XJEEPER
May 11th, 2018, 15:30
So, now that the engine was pretty well there, and the fuel system was taken care of, time to get on the exhaust.

The section from the header to the back of the cat took about half a day. I was in and out a dozen times, getting up and down probably well over 100 times. I added the flex pipe it to help prevent any future cracking of the exhaust manifold. Getting the flex pipe installed, also helps a lot with getting it back in.

I did the following:
- Cut off and reinstall the hanger (which took some of the pipe with it, hence the patch)
- Cut a notch in front of the Cat to get some better clearance
- Cut off, clean up, and weld the old Cat flange to the one going in.

Once everything was in place, the entire thing got wire wheeled, pressure washed, wiped with mineral spirits, and painted in high temp VHT Paint.

Flex Pipe location:

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4668/26764992618_fef4a488c1_c.jpg

General setup, with a little better clearance than stock:

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4789/39926088694_949c4b4edd_c.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4752/40594535222_142e406392_c.jpg

All together:

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4653/39926087684_15ac5a9c7e_c.jpg

Weld are all quick tack-tack. Hold just fine, is air tight, and I risk blowing through a lot less. Exhaust and body (thin sheet)...I hate welding:

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4776/40594534282_6c7fc985d6_c.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4753/39926088104_7eceb7bf0c_c.jpg

All painted up:

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4612/40594533882_629278bd73_c.jpg

I got it back in for final installation.

The muffler and rear exhaust pipe aren't fully in yet. I need to pull the rear pipe, give it the same cleaning, and get the rear hanger by the shackles taken care of.

Looking good! One can also add a flange clamp to the flex joint for additional ease in disconnecting the exhaust.

Here's how I did it:

https://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1108130&highlight=exhaust

http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w52/XJEEPER1/XJ%20Build%20III/IMG_1413_zps33642f2d-1.jpg