View Full Version : D30 woes

September 27th, 2017, 16:53
Ok guys, I'm getting pissed at this point, I should have done this from the start, but, I needed new calipers, (old ones locking up) and u joints. I replaced the calipers, hubs and ujoints. I carefully slid my axles in upon install and put it all back together. I took her for a road test and now my right axle seal is leaking pretty bad. I know I should have done it while I had the axles out but live and learn I guess. What manufacturer is best for axle seals, and what do you guys think about outer seals vs. the oem dust cover??

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September 27th, 2017, 17:55
Let the axle drain before making any conclusions, happens all the time!

Jeep Driver
September 27th, 2017, 17:59
And refill the differential.

September 27th, 2017, 18:00
Let the axle drain before making any conclusions, happens all the time!

It left a nice puddle behind my wheel after my road test though.

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September 27th, 2017, 20:26
Ya the 80-90w oil in the diff is about the consistency of honey. And the right tube is long. So it takes a while for it to work it's way down to where it can drip out, and when it does, it drips for a while and enough to be concerning. I second check the front diff level, the hp d30 is very susceptible to pinion bearing damage if the level is low, as the pinion bearings are above the level of the axle shafts.

Refill diff with oil and monitor for no less than 3 days. If it continues to leak, you'll now you have an issue. Axle seals are no small job... and less common than you'd think.

September 27th, 2017, 20:57
With regard to the outer seals, they have a couple of downsides:

1. You could have an inner axle seal leak and not know it until too late (i.e. bearing damage).

2. I am told you can get water trapped inside, supposedly if you have to turn the wheels while in a water crossing. Apparently the axle moves enough off center-line to allow water to sneak in past the seals, and then it has no way out. Then rust happens.

However, I will say that they do a great job of keeping desert dust out.

I have taken mine out for the sake of eliminating possible sources of a mystery noise. I was pleased with how clean everything was inside, as opposed to what I have found behind the factory flange things. I will probably put mine back in.

You will have to assess your own situation.

For inner axle seals: Spicer 46470. And folks who know more about these seals than I do say to grease the inside of them, where the spring is.

September 27th, 2017, 21:58
The best inner axle seals are Spicer 46470. But you have to pull the carrier to change them.

The seals get rusty inside and installing shafts and get a flake of rust on the shaft and compromise the seal. Clean the tubes out. Coat the seal surface of the shaft with gear oil or vasoline.

A driveshaft shop should have the inner axle seals. If the drive shaft shops in your areas are dicks, try online. National is the OEM for Spicer seals and bearings but the genuine Spicer parts are made to a higher standard.

September 28th, 2017, 03:18
Thanks guys, I found a pair of spicer seals on eBay for a good price. I ordered last night. I'll be installing them this weekend.

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September 29th, 2017, 14:47
fluid leaks out for a while. put a few hundred miles on it before swapping the seals to see if the leak stops - could just be residual fluid in the tubes. happens all the time.

October 1st, 2017, 11:05
I used Timkin seals when mine started leaking. they are built better and are made so it is difficult to tear them. and I thought it would be a massive job, but its not too bad. pull the axles, diff cover, carrier (pay attention to the bearing caps) drive old seals out, RTV the edges of the new seals, 36mm socket on the seals to drive them in. put carrier back, torque it, Diff cover, axles, fill with fluid and drive it. took me prolly 2 hours