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volumeknob
August 22nd, 2017, 06:02
Hey guys, recently acquired a 98 XJ Sport with the HPD30 3.55 front axle. It has a 4-1/2" Zone lift on 33" BFG AT's. I've been researching aftermarket support for the D30 and coming up with some options for how to move forward. After my investigation on my axle, it's going to need a drag link, tie rod, pinion seal, diff cover refresh, U-joints on at least the axle shafts, most likely the driveshaft as well and potentially wheel bearings. I'm not sure what the health of the pinion and ring gear are, haven't cracked the cover yet. The brakes are good but that's about it LOL.

My first thought was to just snag another HPD30 off of a bone yard XJ but that's rolling the dice too, most likely would be better than what I have now though.

So the question that's been asked a million times, what should I do here? Budget is pretty skinny, I bought a house and a trailer to haul the XJ, along with several other major purchases this year. I have a few wheeling trips planned in the next few months so I either do this now or just wait until late fall. Thanks for the pointers guys!

SBpunk
August 22nd, 2017, 06:21
HP D30's are cheap and damn near everywhere. Bring a 13mm socket/wrench with you to open the covers and check the gears. Even if you do get one that looks good I'd still change out the inner tube seals and ball joints. Steering stuff is pretty cheap also. V8 ZJ tie rod/ends are a decent upgrade for the money. If you can find a later model XJ in the junkyard grab the shafts. The years escape me at the moment but they're able to fit larger ujoints and slide right into the older HPD30s. You'll want to modify them to use full circle clips though. Plenty of youtube videos and just takes some patience and a hack saw.

Green XJ Jeep
August 22nd, 2017, 06:27
Sounds like normal maintenance stuff even on a jy d30.
The only real benefit to getting another d30 is that you can throw it on some stands and re build it at your leasure.

VAhasnoWAVES
August 22nd, 2017, 06:33
^^^^ agreed

i would be replacing all of those things on a JY axle anyway.

as long as the backlash feels good and the fluid doesnt call for alarm in your current axle, i would just rebuild that one. the only reason i see to replace a D30 with another JY D30 is because something happened with the gear set, and its simply cheaper to replace the axle than it is regear it to stock.

volumeknob
August 22nd, 2017, 06:56
HP D30's are cheap and damn near everywhere. Bring a 13mm socket/wrench with you to open the covers and check the gears. Even if you do get one that looks good I'd still change out the inner tube seals and ball joints. Steering stuff is pretty cheap also. V8 ZJ tie rod/ends are a decent upgrade for the money. If you can find a later model XJ in the junkyard grab the shafts. The years escape me at the moment but they're able to fit larger ujoints and slide right into the older HPD30s. You'll want to modify them to use full circle clips though. Plenty of youtube videos and just takes some patience and a hack saw.

I've read up on replacing those seals, ball joints and the ZJ steering upgrade. The good years for the Dana 44 axle shafts are 97-99, I think not sure. You're talking about the 5-760X U-joints I'm assuming on the later XJ's? youtube has been a very useful tool for maintenance on this trucks and most of the work I've done so far has gone smooth.

Sounds like normal maintenance stuff even on a jy d30.
The only real benefit to getting another d30 is that you can throw it on some stands and re build it at your leasure.

Right, just curious if I'm better off going with a different axle all together or just find a decent D30 and rebuilt that, then swap it in. Or run it and rebuild the one on the truck. Just looking for a direction to go in.

Can I use a HPD30 from anything else other than a XJ?

VAhasnoWAVES
August 22nd, 2017, 07:06
I've read up on replacing those seals, ball joints and the ZJ steering upgrade. The good years for the Dana 44 axle shafts are 97-99, I think not sure. You're talking about the 5-760X U-joints I'm assuming on the later XJ's? youtube has been a very useful tool for maintenance on this trucks and most of the work I've done so far has gone smooth.



Right, just curious if I'm better off going with a different axle all together or just find a decent D30 and rebuilt that, then swap it in. Or run it and rebuild the one on the truck. Just looking for a direction to go in.

Can I use a HPD30 from anything else other than a XJ?
44 shafts do no good for you and your D30.
early model D30s with ABS all got 297 (spicer 760) joints.
im not sure what year the smaller joint was phased out, but the years 91 or 94 come to mind.
id be willing to wager your 98 has 297/spicer 760 size joints in it.

the rebuild you are talking about doing is nothing more than regular maintenance and is an saturday job at most with the axle still under the vehicle. there is very little need to replace it entirely... unless there is something catastrophically wrong with it or you just like scrap metal laying around your yard.

a non XJ HP D30 will not bolt in.

volumeknob
August 22nd, 2017, 07:17
44 shafts do no good for you and your D30.
early model D30s with ABS all got 297 (spicer 760) joints.
im not sure what year the smaller joint was phased out, but the years 91 or 94 come to mind.
id be willing to wager your 98 has 297/spicer 760 size joints in it.

the rebuild you are talking about doing is nothing more than regular maintenance and is an saturday job at most with the axle still under the vehicle. there is very little need to replace it entirely... unless there is something catastrophically wrong with it or you just like scrap metal laying around your yard.

a non XJ HP D30 will not bolt in.

I'm sure it has the Spicer 760's due to the year alone, unless it's been messed with before I got it. I don't have ABS, I've confirmed that. Only real reason to replace would be to actually build up the other one, more than just maintenance items. So truss, locker, aftermarket outer seals, re-gear, full C clips, moly shafts, clean and paint. Thought about doing the WJ knuckle swap since my knuckles are toast where the drag link ties in. This would be a over the winter type project and swapping in a JY D30 just for better manners. Trying to keep it on the road and doing all this work would be easier with the axle off the truck.

Right, needs to be a HP D30. I was just curious if any other Jeep models have the same HP Dana 30 or if it needs to be an XJ.

ehall
August 22nd, 2017, 08:17
94-up are all the thicker u-joints, I would get those shafts if nothing else

If its a trail rig you can probably get away with cheap wheel bearings for a little while

Replace the seals and wheel it

volumeknob
August 22nd, 2017, 08:42
94-up are all the thicker u-joints, I would get those shafts if nothing else

If its a trail rig you can probably get away with cheap wheel bearings for a little while

Replace the seals and wheel it

Reason I feel the U-joints are bad is because I have a constant chirping at low speed, seems to go away at any speed over 10-15 mph but sure sounds like a little birdie in there. I get some lovely clicking in 4 high too, especially when turning the wheels. Even in 2WD high I have plenty of drive line vibs / noise (humming, rock tumbler sound), so that could be the axle and/or driveshaft U-joints, the pinion and/or wheel bearings.

ehall
August 22nd, 2017, 08:47
chirping is probably the driveshaft centering ball, you can get a rebuild kit from Denny's Driveshaft for pretty good price (new centering joint and u-joints), if there's not a lot of slop in the slip joint that's the best way to go

volumeknob
August 22nd, 2017, 09:00
chirping is probably the driveshaft centering ball, you can get a rebuild kit from Denny's Driveshaft for pretty good price (new centering joint and u-joints), if there's not a lot of slop in the slip joint that's the best way to go

Alright cool, I found his site when I was looking for Spicer U-joints a few months back, he's got great prices. I'm sure taking the front shaft off completely and taking it for a spin would help determine if it's that shaft or not. I just did the hack and tap on the rear and that didn't change any vibs or sounds at all.

RCP Phx
August 22nd, 2017, 09:22
With 33" tires you should also be looking at gears!

volumeknob
August 22nd, 2017, 09:48
With 33" tires you should also be looking at gears!

I am, stated that already. Another reason to find another D30 and build that one or swap it in and build the one that's on my truck now.

Green XJ Jeep
August 22nd, 2017, 10:24
Right, just curious if I'm better off going with a different axle all together or just find a decent D30 and rebuilt that, then swap it in. Or run it and rebuild the one on the truck. Just looking for a direction to go in.

Can I use a HPD30 from anything else other than a XJ?
The only benefit to getting a jy axle is that you can take your time and rebuild it as your budget and time allows then swap it in.
We have all had projects take longer than expected and only you know whats acceptable for how long your jeep can potentially be laid up
XJ, MJ, TJ, and ZJ will interchange. ZJ's are low pinion

mcguyver_xj
August 22nd, 2017, 10:40
The only benefit to getting a jy axle is that you can take your time and rebuild it as your budget and time allows then swap it in.
We have all had projects take longer than expected and only you know whats acceptable for how long your jeep can potentially be laid up
XJ, MJ, TJ, and ZJ will interchange. ZJ's are low pinion

tj is low pinion as well

mcguyver_xj
August 22nd, 2017, 10:43
to op your overthinking this a bit every complaint you have is normal for a 20-something year old vehicle and if you have any competence with tools you can bang it out it in a weekend like vahasnowaves said and if your looking at regearing you gotta do the back axle too and a regear requires a bit of coin and you have already stated your budget is small

volumeknob
August 22nd, 2017, 10:54
The only benefit to getting a jy axle is that you can take your time and rebuild it as your budget and time allows then swap it in.
We have all had projects take longer than expected and only you know whats acceptable for how long your jeep can potentially be laid up
XJ, MJ, TJ, and ZJ will interchange. ZJ's are low pinion

This is what I was looking for, THANK YOU! Makes finding one that much easier. The Bleepin Jeep guys said 95 is when they changed the axle U-joints, so that'll help too.

volumeknob
August 22nd, 2017, 10:59
to op your overthinking this a bit every complaint you have is normal for a 20-something year old vehicle and if you have any competence with tools you can bang it out it in a weekend like vahasnowaves said and if your looking at regearing you gotta do the back axle too and a regear requires a bit of coin and you have already stated your budget is small

Not overthinking it, just curious what you guys feel is the right avenue to take. I figure this might be a good time to upgrade to a different axle all together but now that I've read all of this, sounds like the D30 is just fine, even if I decide to go with larger tires in the future. I'm not complaining, I'd just like to drive it down the road and maybe even the high way to go to meets, shows, what have you and not have it be rattling my teeth out, I'm in no way upset, I completely understand the age and I live in MI, so the salt is very harsh. I'm sure I could rebuild the one that's there in a weekend, not an issue at all. Budget is small now but with time I'm sure it'll be a good project to build and have ready for next summer.

Thanks guys! :cheers:

VAhasnoWAVES
August 22nd, 2017, 12:13
This is what I was looking for, THANK YOU! Makes finding one that much easier. The Bleepin Jeep guys said 95 is when they changed the axle U-joints, so that'll help too.
TJ and ZJ at low pinion. given the age of the MJ, youll want to steer away from that axle even if you find one. and you now know what year XJ axle you are looking for. so... your still looking for an XJ axle.

"finding one is much easier now." :laugh3:

Not overthinking it, just curious what you guys feel is the right avenue to take. I figure this might be a good time to upgrade to a different axle all together but now that I've read all of this, sounds like the D30 is just fine, even if I decide to go with larger tires in the future. I'm not complaining, I'd just like to drive it down the road and maybe even the high way to go to meets, shows, what have you and not have it be rattling my teeth out, I'm in no way upset, I completely understand the age and I live in MI, so the salt is very harsh. I'm sure I could rebuild the one that's there in a weekend, not an issue at all. Budget is small now but with time I'm sure it'll be a good project to build and have ready for next summer.

Thanks guys! :cheers:

i think where our confusion lies is that it sounds like you have both wants, and needs.

if you need to keep the vehicle on the road... perform the required maintenance on the axle you have to keep it road worthy. if you want to build an axle, and are looking down the road, thats fine. if that is the case, then rebuilding an axle on the bench may be a good stroke of business, so you can work on it as time and budget allows (someone stated this). keep in mind that just because you put good parts on your current axle to keep your vehicle running doesnt mean you cant use them when the time comes to install a more built axle down the road.

Green XJ Jeep
August 22nd, 2017, 12:14
tj is low pinion as well

Did not know that.
I guess i need to keep a hp d30 around if i decide to build a tj

volumeknob
August 22nd, 2017, 13:12
TJ and ZJ at low pinion. given the age of the MJ, youll want to steer away from that axle even if you find one. and you now know what year XJ axle you are looking for. so... your still looking for an XJ axle.

"finding one is much easier now." :laugh3:

Damn! Thought I was in luck lol

i think where our confusion lies is that it sounds like you have both wants, and needs.

if you need to keep the vehicle on the road... perform the required maintenance on the axle you have to keep it road worthy. if you want to build an axle, and are looking down the road, thats fine. if that is the case, then rebuilding an axle on the bench may be a good stroke of business, so you can work on it as time and budget allows (someone stated this). keep in mind that just because you put good parts on your current axle to keep your vehicle running doesnt mean you cant use them when the time comes to install a more built axle down the road.

This is true, good point. It is a struggle between wants and needs, I think we'd all love to have built rigs but that's why it's a project, at least in my case. I'll just find the parts I need to freshen it up. Think I'm going to pull the driveshaft and see what that changes road manner wise, would atleast help me key in on what the issues are maybe.... Thanks again man!

Heavyopp
August 22nd, 2017, 20:28
I just bought a "parts" XJ this weekend for the 97 HP Dana 30 among a few other things I need/want

Sounds like you're plan is almost the same as mine -- I'm working on a 2000 so it's the low pinion 30 stock -- I want to drive it now then swap in the built axle when I lift it -- winter project

Only difference is I want to go 4.56 for 33" tires and also install an ARB air locker

The parts XJ was cheap enough that I should be able to make my money back selling parts and then scrapping the leftover shell -- would really be awesome if I could make enough off of the parts jeep to build the axle but thats a far cry from reality


Keep an eye on your local craigslist for parts trucks -- I'm in NJ -- junkyards are generally high priced greedy bastards around here

volumeknob
August 24th, 2017, 11:03
Rookie question alert: When one is removing the front D30, do you have to compress the coils? Found a guy parting out a 96 and it's essentially free, if I can get it off but I want to be prepared tools wise and I don't have a spring compressor.

dan1977p
August 24th, 2017, 11:18
nope. Pull the wheels off, disconnect the shocks, unbolt the hold down tab on the coil, let the axle drop and the coils will come right out.

volumeknob
August 24th, 2017, 14:50
nope. Pull the wheels off, disconnect the shocks, unbolt the hold down tab on the coil, let the axle drop and the coils will come right out.

Ok sounds promising, thanks man! My pinion bearings seem to be shot and the back lash on the yoke is very loose, I can wiggle the yoke about a 1/8"-1/4" if I grab it and pull side to side and it turns a fair amount when I twist it, so I'm gonna call that cooked. Correct me if I'm wrong guys!

Tbone289
August 25th, 2017, 07:41
nope. Pull the wheels off, disconnect the shocks, unbolt the hold down tab on the coil, let the axle drop and the coils will come right out.

Not true, at least on a stock XJ.

I just replaced springs on a stock '00 a couple of months ago, and there's no way you will get the spring out without a compressor by just disconnecting the shocks and spring tab. You will need to drop the LCAs if you don't want to use a compressor. it will help to have a buddy available to stand on the hub while suspended so you don't have the compress the spring so far.


See here for details:
https://youtu.be/zKxw5ZMAlts

Serious Offroad
August 25th, 2017, 08:28
You do not need spring compressors to remove the coil springs. All you need to do is raise the body and put it on jack stands. Remove the wheels, brakes and disconnect the track bar,steering linkage and shocks. The axle will then be sitting on the ground and it's easy to use a long pry bar to pop the springs out of the spring cups.

Tbone289
August 25th, 2017, 08:34
Agreed. If you drop the shocks, track bar and steering linkage that is true. But let's not give the guy the false impression that just disconnecting the shocks will get the job done without a compressor.

dan1977p
August 25th, 2017, 08:35
Not true, at least on a stock XJ.

I just replaced springs on a stock '00 a couple of months ago, and there's no way you will get the spring out without a compressor by just disconnecting the shocks and spring tab. You will need to drop the LCAs if you don't want to use a compressor. it will help to have a buddy available to stand on the hub while suspended so you don't have the compress the spring so far.


See here for details:
https://youtu.be/zKxw5ZMAlts

Odd, mine slipped right out but I may have already pulled out my UCA's before. So if you want to make it easier, remove two more bolts to disconnect the UCA's from the axle or body.

volumeknob
August 25th, 2017, 10:22
Thanks guys, I found one closer than the 96 that's already pulled. I'm going to check it out today after work. Anything I should look for on a used on? They offered to pull the cover for me, so that'll be nice to inspect it before buying it.

Green XJ Jeep
August 25th, 2017, 12:10
Agreed. If you drop the shocks, track bar and steering linkage that is true. But let's not give the guy the false impression that just disconnecting the shocks will get the job done without a compressor.

Its also not going to drop down enough with the sway bar attached

Tbone289
August 25th, 2017, 12:54
True that. Honestly, I thought it was just as easy to disco the swaybar and shocks and use a compressor I rented for free at AutoZone.

burntkat
August 25th, 2017, 14:53
Not true, at least on a stock XJ.

I just replaced springs on a stock '00 a couple of months ago, and there's no way you will get the spring out without a compressor by just disconnecting the shocks and spring tab. You will need to drop the LCAs if you don't want to use a compressor. it will help to have a buddy available to stand on the hub while suspended so you don't have the compress the spring so far.


See here for details:
https://youtu.be/zKxw5ZMAlts

Interesting, as I've done this several times without compressors.

muddypunk
August 25th, 2017, 20:41
Never used a compressor. Jack it way up place on stands, lowers, steering,TB, sway bar, shocks and blam the coils darn near fall out.

Bleepin Jeep is full of miss information but that's ok after you've built 5 or 7 Jeep's you read through that stuff quickly.


Sent from my Arse because my hands are full.

Tbone289
August 26th, 2017, 05:26
Interesting, as I've done this several times without compressors.

If you can drop OEM coils out of a stock XJ by hand after only unbolting the shocks and the coil clip, either you are the man or you are working on an XJ with a seriously worn out front end.

Next time you do that, take some video. That's something I would sure like to see.

Watch that youtube video posted above and tell me at what point after the shocks are disconnected that we should just pull the spring out by hand.

Tbone289
August 26th, 2017, 05:32
Never used a compressor. Jack it way up place on stands, lowers, steering,TB, sway bar, shocks and blam the coils darn near fall out.

Bleepin Jeep is full of miss information but that's ok after you've built 5 or 7 Jeep's you read through that stuff quickly.


Sent from my Arse because my hands are full.

It's not misinformation. There's more than one way to skin a cat. I think we've already covered the fact that this is one of those cats.

Nobody in this thread has said that spring compressors are an absolute requirement for this job.

Green XJ Jeep
August 26th, 2017, 05:50
Shocks, sway bar, coil spring retainer clip, and calipers are all that really need to be removed to let the front drop far enough.

Tbone289
August 26th, 2017, 06:12
Shocks, sway bar, coil spring retainer clip, and calipers are all that really need to be removed to let the front drop far enough.

I had a 200lb buddy standing on the hub with all of that disco'd, and we couldn't get the spring out by hand. The bumpstop tube and spring perch was still in the way, and the spring was still under compression, just as BleepinJeep's video shows. Actually, there was no reason to remove the caliper in my case, because it wouldn't even come close to over-extending the brake line. If it was, why not just unbolt the line from the inner fender instead of removing the caliper?

I guess everyone's XJs are different since nobody in this thread seems to be able to agree what needs to be disconnected. If what you say is all that is needed to be disconnected, why are others saying that you need to drop the trackbar, control arms, etc.?

Tbone289
August 26th, 2017, 06:52
Maybe this is a low pinion D30 vs. high pinion D30 issue? I didn't think at the time that was the limiting factor with mine, but I suppose it's possible...

Green XJ Jeep
August 26th, 2017, 07:13
I had a 200lb buddy standing on the hub with all of that disco'd, and we couldn't get the spring out by hand. The bumpstop tube and spring perch was still in the way, and the spring was still under compression, just as BleepinJeep's video shows. Actually, there was no reason to remove the caliper in my case, because it wouldn't even come close to over-extending the brake line. If it was, why not just unbolt the line from the inner fender instead of removing the caliper?

I guess everyone's XJs are different since nobody in this thread seems to be able to agree what needs to be disconnected. If what you say is all that is needed to be disconnected, why are others saying that you need to drop the trackbar, control arms, etc.?

Honestly forgot to mention the track bar.

You can get the drivers side out without removing the track bar but not the pass side.

The caliper is 2 bolts and it gets hung out of the way unbolting from the inner fender (on both of mine) still wouldnt let the axle drop enough.
On my 89 and 96 that is all i had to do. Control arms stayed in place on both.
How or why your control arms are binding (my guess body side of upper arm) is anyones guess but the only time i have ever removed controls arms for a spring replacement is if i am replacing the arms.

VAhasnoWAVES
August 27th, 2017, 16:50
Maybe this is a low pinion D30 vs. high pinion D30 issue? I didn't think at the time that was the limiting factor with mine, but I suppose it's possible...

no. the mounts are identical on HP vs LP.

even with having ONLY the 4 control arms hooked up it may still be difficult to slip the springs out. the stock control arms hit the coil mount and limit droop. this is an issue that aftermarket arms address with either a bend in the tube or offsetting the tube on the joint.

ive never used compressors... there is usually enough room to wiggle a pry bar in there and muscle the coil over the mount and slip it out.

volumeknob
August 28th, 2017, 07:29
So I've been hunting for a D30 for days now. I've found a handful on HP's but none of them are in usable condition. I don't see the point in buying one that needs a ton of work, I could just rebuild mine. Any of you guys have any or know of places in MI? I'm in Genesee county and will drive 3-4 hours in any direction for the right deal. I've checked Facebook, Craigslist, called several yards in this area and nothing worth pulling the trigger on. I'm going to start looking in other major areas but thought I'd put the word out.

VAhasnoWAVES
August 28th, 2017, 07:44
So I've been hunting for a D30 for days now. I've found a handful on HP's but none of them are in usable condition. I don't see the point in buying one that needs a ton of work, I could just rebuild mine. Any of you guys have any or know of places in MI? I'm in Genesee county and will drive 3-4 hours in any direction for the right deal. I've checked Facebook, Craigslist, called several yards in this area and nothing worth pulling the trigger on. I'm going to start looking in other major areas but thought I'd put the word out.

have you used car-parts.com?
you could also post a wanted add on greatlakes4x4.com

i am in macomb county myself.

volumeknob
August 28th, 2017, 08:07
have you used car-parts.com?
you could also post a wanted add on greatlakes4x4.com

i am in macomb county myself.

No, I'll check those out, thanks!

Edit: Just checked out car-part.com, very nice resource!

volumeknob
August 29th, 2017, 07:53
Any tips on which upper control arm bushings to use? Found a few flavors of Moog: K3128 & K3162. I'm assuming the K3162 are more better, right :laugh:

praetorian
August 29th, 2017, 11:26
Looks like the k3162 come with 4 and have a better coating on the metal.

ehall
August 29th, 2017, 13:55
I think they changed the bushings slightly for the WJ arms--same diameters but there are nipples on the inner sleeve to prevent it from seizing to the bolt. I think.

volumeknob
August 31st, 2017, 09:27
What brand and viscosity of diff lube should I be running?

Tbone289
August 31st, 2017, 13:01
Cheapo 80w-90 is fine. 75w-90 synth if it makes you feel better, or if you feel you need "heavy duty" then 85w-140 or 75w-140 synth. Brand isn't that important.

burntkat
August 31st, 2017, 13:30
I think they changed the bushings slightly for the WJ arms--same diameters but there are nipples on the inner sleeve to prevent it from seizing to the bolt. I think.

I found those same dimpled bushings inside my wife's 94ZJ last year when I did the arm upgrade.

volumeknob
August 31st, 2017, 13:53
Cheapo 80w-90 is fine. 75w-90 synth if it makes you feel better, or if you feel you need "heavy duty" then 85w-140 or 75w-140 synth. Brand isn't that important.

Cool, I just snagged a jug of Carquest 80W-90. Found an axle with 24K miles in a local yard. This weekend should be fun! Got all new Moog steering parts to bolt on too. Just found all the torque specs. Please correct if any of these are wrong:

Dana 30 diff cover - 30 ft/lbs
LCA to axle - 85 ft/lbs
UCA to axle - 55 ft/lbs
All TRE's - 35 ft/lbs
Adjustment sleeves - 14 ft/lbs
Shocks to axle - 17-20 ft/lbs
Driveshaft to T-case - 14 ft/lbs
Driveshaft to axle - 13-18 ft/lbs
Caliper bolts - 30 ft/lbs
Lugs - 85 ft/lbs

Steering Gear box to frame - 65 ft/lbs

I had to dig for this info so maybe it'll come in handy to someone reading this.

volumeknob
September 1st, 2017, 10:09
What would you guys do to protect this axle from further rust? Just some wash it down wit some Super Clean and then a rattle can job?

I have some of this sitting around http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/productImages/1000/9f/9fc33108-5216-431c-b9ef-33e076b49cca_1000.jpg

Been waiting for a project to try it on.

VAhasnoWAVES
September 1st, 2017, 10:35
master coat
this stuff seems to last better than anything else ive done.
finish with what ever rattle can of your choice.

https://scontent-ort2-2.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/14225419_1069819596405789_7595405623455524515_n.jp g?oh=b86a0a7cca0978ccf70a40a265685cdc&oe=5A53B9CF

volumeknob
September 1st, 2017, 10:38
master coat
this stuff seems to last better than anything else ive done.
finish with what ever rattle can of your choice.

https://scontent-ort2-2.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/14225419_1069819596405789_7595405623455524515_n.jp g?oh=b86a0a7cca0978ccf70a40a265685cdc&oe=5A53B9CF

Did you find it locally? Found it on their website but I'm looking to do this tonight and tomorrow morning if need be.

VAhasnoWAVES
September 1st, 2017, 10:44
i ordered.

volumeknob
September 1st, 2017, 11:02
i ordered.

Right on, I'm just going to clean it up good and wire wheel the rough spots, then spray it with some Rustoleum primer and black hammered. That should work until I'm ready to build it up.

VAhasnoWAVES
September 1st, 2017, 11:10
i wouldnt even waste the time waiting for paint to dry.

if you dont plan on truely prepping the metal... pressure wash it, degrease it, and go.

Tbone289
September 1st, 2017, 11:10
I just spray a coat Fluid Film on a couple times a year. If there's any initial rust scale, that would be wire brushed first. I wouldn't do more than that unless I was disassembling for a build or upgrade and had time and space for proper finish prep. Fluid film does a great job of stopping corrosion.

burntkat
September 4th, 2017, 21:09
Degrease, wire wheel, OsPho. Then shoot it with Rustoleum Hammered Finish (prime and paint in one) and run it.

volumeknob
September 5th, 2017, 05:24
I got the old D30 pulled Friday night. Started fresh early Saturday morning with a wash and degrease, then ran to town for replacement shock mounting bolts and incorrect UCA bolts that the PO slapped in there. Rusty metal primed it and finished with blacked hammered. Got it in and waited overnight to fill the diff with oil. All new Moog steering parts went on good and did a driveway alignment. She purrs right along at 70 now, I wouldn't go much over 55 before.

Now I have a bumper to paint and get put on! Hopefully the steering gear box bolts don't give me any lip.

volumeknob
September 8th, 2017, 05:20
So bad news guys...went to get the truck aligned last night and the right front is toed in -1.8 degrees. So now it's time to make a decision, try returning the axle to the JY it came from or deal with it. I'm sure it'll chew up tires like no tomorrow and I'd like to keep it on the road not just offroad...

Any advice? How would I go about checking an axle before buying it?

VAhasnoWAVES
September 8th, 2017, 05:46
so... adjust the toe.

i cant remember what spec is, i always do the tape measure method with no issues. but toe is adjusted with your steering linkage. did you just swap the steering from one axle to another?

volumeknob
September 8th, 2017, 05:54
so... adjust the toe.

i cant remember what spec is, i always do the tape measure method with no issues. but toe is adjusted with your steering linkage. did you just swap the steering from one axle to another?

Wow, I must still be sleeping. I meant camber, my apologies. They fixed the toe, I had it close but they got it dialed in. I put all new Moog steering parts on it with the ZJ tie rod.

VAhasnoWAVES
September 8th, 2017, 06:06
lol. that makes more sense.

whats spec for camber?

volumeknob
September 8th, 2017, 06:50
lol. that makes more sense.

whats spec for camber?

He didn't specify just said it should be as close to 0 as possible. I'm just a little hesitant to throw hundreds of dollars in offset ball joints at a JY axle. I haven't called the JY yet so we'll see what they say.

RCP Phx
September 8th, 2017, 07:39
They make offset ball joints to correct any camber/caster needs!

volumeknob
September 8th, 2017, 08:50
They make offset ball joints to correct any camber/caster needs!

I looked at the ones on the NAPA website and I'm glad I was sitting down lol. I'm not going to spend $100's on ball joints. That's not really fixing the issue and without knowing if the outer C is bent or if the axle tube is bent really doesn't settle well with me either. I've also read that they ware quickly and Dana never designed these axles to utilize this technology. I bought this with intentions of building it up this winter or next year. I'd rather just start with a straight axle. The JY will give me back what I paid, so that's the silver lining at this point.

RCP Phx
September 8th, 2017, 09:48
Now your just dreaming! If you want a perfect axle call Currie or Dynatrac, but in the production Jeep world it's not going to happen!

volumeknob
September 8th, 2017, 10:14
Now your just dreaming! If you want a perfect axle call Currie or Dynatrac, but in the production Jeep world it's not going to happen!

Not looking for perfect but if they're all bent or damaged I'll take my chances with one at a fraction of the cost. In my opinion $300 is a lot for a used axle but with the lower miles this one had, I felt it was worth it.

Green XJ Jeep
September 8th, 2017, 10:14
If your camber is off 1.8 degrees there is an issue.
Seems like the alignment shop could tell if it was bent or a bad ball joint

I recomend leveling it as best you can pulling the knuckles off and putting an angle finder on the c before you pull the thing back out

RCP Phx
September 8th, 2017, 10:26
I've never seen a D30 that had indentical numbers on both sides! Even my 2k(bought new) didn't from the factory!
BTW, offset BJ's have been used at the factory for years.
Also be aware of the fact that most alignment shop use specs for a factory configuration not lifted Jeeps!

volumeknob
September 8th, 2017, 11:02
I'm going to take it to a shop that actually works on lifted vehicles and get a second opinion. I'm also going to check the ball joints and make sure there's no issues there first, this axle did come from a junk yard after all. Also figured rotating the tires would be a good idea to try, they may be worn funny from the PO. I just don't trust the big chain places, this is just one of those things that I can't really dial in on my own. Again not seeking perfect, c'mon it's a Jeep lol but I think I can do better that what it is now. Funny thing is, it does 70+ with no sway or stabilizer just fine. Thanks for the pointers guys, I'll check back in next week.

Tbone289
September 8th, 2017, 11:06
Tire wear will have no effect on the alignment.

RCP Phx
September 8th, 2017, 11:17
^^^ That plus mine has driven perfect with about 3 different lifts for 17yrs and never seen a alignment shop!!!

cal
September 8th, 2017, 11:57
Agreed. If you drop the shocks, track bar and steering linkage that is true. But let's not give the guy the false impression that just disconnecting the shocks will get the job done without a compressor.

That depends on what shocks, trackbar and steering you are running.

I can remove my coils by just removing the shocks and limit straps.

Tbone289
September 8th, 2017, 12:32
That depends on what shocks, trackbar and steering you are running.

I can remove my coils by just removing the shocks and limit straps.


True, but you should probably take into consideration that the original question was about a stock, '96 XJ and he was wondering what tools he would need to pull the coils. That is what we were discussing.

Anything is possible if you don't stick with the context... :rolleyes:

cal
September 8th, 2017, 12:40
Yeah, well, you should probably take into consideration that the OP was specifically talking about a stock XJ. :rolleyes:


Hey guys, recently acquired a 98 XJ Sport with the HPD30 3.55 front axle. It has a 4-1/2" Zone lift on 33" BFG AT's.

....

You just love to be an ass don't you?

Tbone289
September 8th, 2017, 12:42
Nope. I like to help people. You just seem to always miss the facts:

Rookie question alert: When one is removing the front D30, do you have to compress the coils? Found a guy parting out a 96 and it's essentially free, if I can get it off but I want to be prepared tools wise and I don't have a spring compressor.

Try to keep up. We weren't talking about his modified '98.

When was I "being an ass?"

cal
September 8th, 2017, 12:47
Nope. I like to help people. You just seem to always miss the facts:



Try to keep up. We weren't talking about his modified '98.

When was I "being an ass?"

Basically every post this month? :)

Tbone289
September 8th, 2017, 12:53
I guess it's just that time of year? :laugh3:

sidewaysstarion
September 8th, 2017, 13:03
But Cal's point still stands, even on a stock XJ you still don't need a spring compressor to get the coils out. You can just undo the shocks and maybe the trackbar and the stock springs will fall out. But if you're removing the whole axle you're going to be unbolting all of that anyways.

volumeknob
September 8th, 2017, 13:07
I love the internet LOL :)

Tbone289
September 8th, 2017, 13:10
But Cal's point still stands, even on a stock XJ you still don't need a spring compressor to get the coils out. You can just undo the shocks and maybe the trackbar and the stock springs will fall out. But if you're removing the whole axle you're going to be unbolting all of that anyways.

Again, nobody ever said that spring compressors are a requirement for the job. I think we've pretty much covered it at this point.

Let me summarize this for you.

This conversation started when dan1977p said this:

nope. Pull the wheels off, disconnect the shocks, unbolt the hold down tab on the coil, let the axle drop and the coils will come right out.

That is not true about a stock XJ, which is specifically what we were discussing. If all you disconnect are the shocks and spring tab, YOU WILL NEED A COMPRESSOR. The springs will not just fall out in that case.

We all agreed in subsequent posts that it would work without spring compressors if the track bar and swaybar were also disco'd.

...and here we are, repeating ourselves over and over again because people are taking things out of context.

sidewaysstarion
September 8th, 2017, 13:16
I've worked on a few stock XJs and never have I needed a spring compressor, the coils drop right out like dan1977p said.

Tbone289
September 8th, 2017, 13:25
I have as well. 4 different late models. The coils didn't drop right out after you disconnect the shocks.

I just put new coils in mine 2 months ago. After disconnecting the shocks, spring tab, and having a 200-lb buddy stand on the hub, a spring compressor would still be required to get the coil past the bumpstop and spring perch. Or, at least a pry bar. They certainly will not "drop right out" without disconnecting more than the shocks.

...but I've already mentioned that. Maybe the ones you worked on had worn out bushings?

There's a video above that shows the procedure. Watch that video and tell me at what point after he disconnects the shocks that the coils "drop right out".

EDIT: Here you go:
https://youtu.be/zKxw5ZMAlts

He has the shocks and swaybar disconnected at 1:32.

Seriously. If I'm wrong here, please show me the evidence that they "drop right out" after unbolting just the shocks and spring tabs. I can only go by my experiences, and they have shown otherwise.

Tbone289
September 8th, 2017, 14:12
I love the internet LOL :)

Did you ever pull those springs? How'd it go?

J/K... I hope you figure out your alignment issue.

dan1977p
September 8th, 2017, 19:53
I have as well. 4 different late models. The coils didn't drop right out after you disconnect the shocks.

I just put new coils in mine 2 months ago. After disconnecting the shocks, spring tab, and having a 200-lb buddy stand on the hub, a spring compressor would still be required to get the coil past the bumpstop and spring perch. Or, at least a pry bar. They certainly will not "drop right out" without disconnecting more than the shocks.

...but I've already mentioned that. Maybe the ones you worked on had worn out bushings?

There's a video above that shows the procedure. Watch that video and tell me at what point after he disconnects the shocks that the coils "drop right out".

EDIT: Here you go:
https://youtu.be/zKxw5ZMAlts

He has the shocks and swaybar disconnected at 1:32.

Seriously. If I'm wrong here, please show me the evidence that they "drop right out" after unbolting just the shocks and spring tabs. I can only go by my experiences, and they have shown otherwise.

For the love of god, will you stop referencing his videos. He's a nice guy and means well, but he goes about things in the most difficult ways possible some times and has no regard to safety.
I know I pulled my coils out without removing anything else mentioned, except I forgot swaybar, because I kept my stock steering for over a year before I broke down and replaced the tie rod and drag link.

Green XJ Jeep
September 8th, 2017, 21:06
I have as well. 4 different late models. The coils didn't drop right out after you disconnect the shocks.

I just put new coils in mine 2 months ago. After disconnecting the shocks, spring tab, and having a 200-lb buddy stand on the hub, a spring compressor would still be required to get the coil past the bumpstop and spring perch. Or, at least a pry bar. They certainly will not "drop right out" without disconnecting more than the shocks.

...but I've already mentioned that. Maybe the ones you worked on had worn out bushings?

There's a video above that shows the procedure. Watch that video and tell me at what point after he disconnects the shocks that the coils "drop right out".

EDIT: Here you go:
https://youtu.be/zKxw5ZMAlts

He has the shocks and swaybar disconnected at 1:32.

Seriously. If I'm wrong here, please show me the evidence that they "drop right out" after unbolting just the shocks and spring tabs. I can only go by my experiences, and they have shown otherwise.

Why is this still being debated?

If you pay attention to the video he doesn't take the track bar bolt out or remove the shock bolts from the other side of the jeep. Nothing is coming out easy if you only remove half the stuff.

There is nothing wrong with using spring compressors and there are many ways to get the job done. What works for one doesn't necessarily mean its going to work for another.

Tbone289
September 9th, 2017, 04:48
That's a great question. I thought the discussion had run its course several pages ago, then cal brought it up again. Now we're just repeating ourselves.

I fully agree with you. The only reason I referenced that video was because it was the only example I could find. It's not s good example but I didn't think it would offend anyone. I didn't bother to take video of the coil swaps I've done.

As I said before, there are many ways to skin the cat...

zaroot
September 9th, 2017, 04:55
D30 early with Vac Disconnect shaft. Smaller u joints, and has a sliding collar is shaft. Not ideal, but with a manual posi lock cable you can have 2lo

D30hp with larger u joints. Best bolt in axle IMO. Axle is always live.

Waggy D44. Requires fab work but similar width.

Ford D60. Requires fab work and is Full width.


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