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ay ay ron
August 10th, 2017, 10:31
Hello there. I hope this isnt a question thats been answered before, but I could only find information about lowering shock mounts. I believe I already know the answer to my own question but I want to run it by yall.

As you can see from the picture, (https://imgur.com/gallery/nzeWc )the previous owner has inatalled new shock mounts, i presume because the old ones rusted out. These new mounts are 1.5" -2" above the stock position. Im unsure why they would mount them higher, perpaps it was the easiest mounting bracket, who knows.

Im sitting at roughly 4.8 inches of lift in the front, and I want to put on my new bilstein 5100s, which are made for a 5-6" inch lift. Without even factoring in the aftermarket raised mounts I would already be borderline running too long of shocks and having decreased uptravel.

With these new mounts 1.5 to 2 inches above stock im really unsure if I shoukd strap on my brand new bilsteins, Im sure it would be bottoming out easily.

Correct me if im wrong, but I believe my options here are either:

1. fab a new lower shock mount
2. buy shorter shocks
3. buy taller coils
4. run it as is

Has anyone else run across this same situation? Should I just strap em on? Thanks fellas.

RCP Phx
August 10th, 2017, 10:50
Those are just bar-pin eliminators. You should never buy shocks before you measure to see what you need, you might need to send them back!

trippled
August 10th, 2017, 12:59
If your new shocks have bar pins on them just remove the bar pin eliminators and bolt the shocks on.

ay ay ron
August 10th, 2017, 14:15
Yeah, I know I should done the flex test measurment, but I just went with the manufactuers reccomendation, not realizing I had BPE. Im not worried about getting the bar pins out, I just want the correct length shocks. My JK rubicon shocks are too short, but Im not sure if they are 6 inches too short, which is how much longer the new billsteins I just bought are. Im currently trying to find a place to flex out, I think im just going to find a random dude with a forklift.

donthelegend
August 10th, 2017, 15:53
You're making this harder than it needs to be.

If your new shocks have bar pins (are they stock fitment, just longer? or are they a "universal mount'?), just unbolt the BPEs and use the stock shock mount. While things look a bit rusty, it doesn't look like there's actually anything wrong with the stock mounting area.

Your options are:
-Remove bar pin eliminators. Mount stock fitment shocks.
-Leave bar pin eliminators. Push bar pin out of after market shocks if present, then mount.

Edit to add: in either case, you should take measurements to actually confirm the correct shock lengths.

Jim Malcolm
August 10th, 2017, 16:50
You will need new bushings if you intend to keep the BPEs. On 5100s, the bushings is molded to the BP. You won't separate them without destroying the bushing.

ay ay ron
August 10th, 2017, 17:00
Oh, I see what you mean now, my apologies. I had assumed that having BPE meant the stock mount was rusted to sheot.

ay ay ron
August 10th, 2017, 17:28
You will need new bushings if you intend to keep the BPEs. On 5100s, the bushings is molded to the BP. You won't separate them without destroying the bushing.


Ah man...thats a bummer. If I go that route would I just order new bushings from 4 wheel parts and have them pressed in at a machine shop or something?

trippled
August 10th, 2017, 19:08
Grease and a vice is all you need. Nothing crazy. Even a c clamp can work.

Green XJ Jeep
August 11th, 2017, 06:21
Oh, I see what you mean now, my apologies. I had assumed that having BPE meant the stock mount was rusted to sheot.

Nope the BPE's mount in the stock shock location.
You should be able to remove the BPE's and just bolt in your stock configured shock.

Tbone289
August 11th, 2017, 06:27
Ah man...thats a bummer. If I go that route would I just order new bushings from 4 wheel parts and have them pressed in at a machine shop or something?

They will be easier to press in than the bar pins and bushings are to press out. A vise should do the job nicely.

bushings: https://www.summitracing.com/search/product-line/bilstein-replacement-shock-bushings

ay ay ron
August 11th, 2017, 08:49
They will be easier to press in than the bar pins and bushings are to press out. A vise should do the job nicely.

bushings: https://www.summitracing.com/search/product-line/bilstein-replacement-shock-bushings

you da man, thanks

Jim Malcolm
August 11th, 2017, 11:44
There are 3 main reasons for using BPEs: to eliminate noise from the shock hitting the mount when the bar pin shifts in the bushing, to open up a wider selection of shocks and to restore down-travel when running shorter-than-should-be shocks, but to the detriment of up-travel if the shocks are too long. The molded bushing design on the 5100s eliminates the first problem (at least for a while) and the other two don't apply in your case.

I can't suggest strongly enough that you measure what it is now at ride height and figure out which of the two available up-travels you want to run. If you decide to keep the BPEs and have a lot of down-travel, make sure that you're driveshaft bottoming out at droop isn't the next limiting factor.

ay ay ron
August 11th, 2017, 19:26
There are 3 main reasons for using BPEs: to eliminate noise from the shock hitting the mount when the bar pin shifts in the bushing, to open up a wider selection of shocks and to restore down-travel when running shorter-than-should-be shocks, but to the detriment of up-travel if the shocks are too long. The molded bushing design on the 5100s eliminates the first problem (at least for a while) and the other two don't apply in your case.

I can't suggest strongly enough that you measure what it is now at ride height and figure out which of the two available up-travels you want to run. If you decide to keep the BPEs and have a lot of down-travel, make sure that you're driveshaft bottoming out at droop isn't the next limiting factor.

Some great knowledge and advice, here I appreciate it. Im definetly going to get proper measurements and go from there. Thank you all for input.

Tim_MN
August 12th, 2017, 08:56
Also, make sure the bump stops are extended to the correct length.