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Issues with my AW4 mods (Expert help needed!)

tdkask

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Kingsland, GA
I am in need of help form some AW4 experts...

I am working on getting a '99 XJ AW4 into a CJ7.

I have done all the mods to shift by TCU or by switch, but don't have a TPS installed on the carb yet, so am currently hoping to accomplish manual shifting.

It is not going as planned.
My symptoms and suspected causes are as follows;

(Note: trans is unknown from junkyard "supposedly" good?)

1.- Pumps fluid out of dipstick.

This may be because it's overfilled? But I don't think so. I drained trans as well as possible with pan off, and drained torque converter as well as possible in bucket. I only put 6 qts back in. 4 of those went in before starting engine, then the other two I had to add with pump running. I read that it takes 8-9 qts after filter change and drain?

Could this possibly be a clog in trans cooler causing this?

2.- Does not go into forward or reverse. By this, I mean that when shifter in any gear (other than P or N) and engine running the trans is locked up. Stops the axle from even being able to manually turn (on jack stands) whatsoever. However, when in same gears and engine not running, the axle is free to turn manually in all but P. This does not change regardless of TCU being on, TCU being overridden and in "manual" solenoid shift mode, or TCU and switch power being removed altogether.

Is this possibly a stuck solenoid that is locking me into two gears at once? Or possible something clogged internally?

I'm really stumped, and would be very appreciative of any input. This has been a months-long project to convert, and is rather frustrating and discouraging to have the trans not work now.

Shouldn't I at least be able to shift by cable and pick 1/3/OD/N/R/P?

How do I get this back on track?
 
Unplug the wiring from it completely, where NOTHING is plugged in. No power at all.

See if you can shift into 1 and R mechanically and have it work. If it works correctly (1st and R) but doesn't shift, you probably have a wiring problem.

If you continue to have problems, you have a transmission problem.
 
In my harness I have a wire for battery positive, a wire for ignition position, and a ground. All three disconnected makes no change. The harness is completely stand alone otherwise.

If I have a transmission problem, then now I have to figure out what problem? If the bands release when the engine isn't running (i.e.- no pump pressure) then is there a solenoid, maybe? Anyone familiar with the internal operation of these? Thanks.
 
In my harness I have a wire for battery positive, a wire for ignition position, and a ground. All three disconnected makes no change. The harness is completely stand alone otherwise.

If I have a transmission problem, then now I have to figure out what problem? If the bands release when the engine isn't running (i.e.- no pump pressure) then is there a solenoid, maybe? Anyone familiar with the internal operation of these? Thanks.



You said something about clogged cooler. You could losen the output side of the cooler and fire it up and see if it flows super fast. But just for a second. If it doesn't flow, check the input side. If still no flow are you sure the pump is pumping?



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I don't necessarily believe that it's clogged, but am trying to think of what COULD be the issue(s). I was thinking of bypassing the cooler(s) to eliminate the factor, but perhps it'd be better to go your route to verify the pump is pumping. I can easily just dump into a clean bucket too.
 
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I have removed all wiring from the equation and no change.

Then, I pulled the connection between trans fluid lines and cooler... both are dry.

Bad pump? TC issue? Is there an internal thermostat that prevents fluid circulation to cooler when below certain temp? Thanks for any ideas.
 
There is no internal thermostat. In fact, the cooler inside the radiator is supposed to help warm the tranny up to temperature. The output side of the cooler just drains back into the pan, so you should be able to blow through it to check for a clog. The dipstick goes into the pan as well. There is a vent hose out the top. If that's plugged or pinched it will pump push out the dipstick as it warms up.

Bad or stuck solenoids would just give you the wrong gear versus acting jammed.

I don't think this is the problem, but when you installed the t/c, did you verify that it was fully seated? I don't recall exactly, but I think the face was supposed to be around 3/4" below the depth of the bell housing? I've seen a few people that damaged the t/c by not having it fully seated and cranking on the bellhousing bolts. It sounds like it's engaged since it's pumping fluid.

Is the oil coming out of the dipstick clear or foaming? Did you sort out the missing throttle-trans cable? If that's missing it won't build pressure and maybe just pump fluid back into the pan. If someone grabbed solenoids from it at the junkyard, that might explain fluid pumping back into the pan instead of out through the cooler. If you have a meter, you could check the resistance on the solenoid wires to ground to see if one is missing. They should be 11-14 ohm per the fsm as I recall.
 
I think I pretty much have it figured out. After swapping in a valve body and everything else... It was a mechanical issue that's ALL my fault.

When adapting everything to the 360 I thought there was too much play in between the torque converter and flex plate, so built a 1/4" spacer (sort of).

Apparently there SHOULD be almost 1/4" play.

So the torque converter was forced in too far and wedged against the pump and had pretty much welded itself to the internal of the pump somewhere.

Anyway... I have an extra pump from a 2WD trans someone gave me, and just need to get a torque converter now. Hopefully it will be worked out in next couple days.
 
Yeah they are supposed to have to slide forward to reach the converter. Not sure what the min and max spec are but I've definitely seen a quarter inch before.

It's too bad you are so far away because I've been trying to firesale a brand new reman converter for a year or two now. Know anyone in Mass who could pick it up and ship it to you? I never manage to get to the post office to ship stuff.

I got it for my 96, discovered the 99 trans I put it in wouldn't work with a 96 easily (which is how I got my start learning the ins and outs of AW4s), shelved it, bought a 94 trans to install, ran it for a year, blew it up, scraped the 96 and still had the 99 trans on the shelf till recently. Gave the trans away, kept the converter.
 
Thanks. That would be cool. And I have a friend whose family is in Mass, so maybe it'd be cool to get and put on my shelf until one day needed?

But I'm trying to drive this thing in next day or two, so I'm headed to the local pick-a-part to snag one at 9:00 tomorrow. Wanna get on the road/trail again!
 
Up to you, it isn't going anywhere anytime soon.
 
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