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Ok I have an interesting one

H

heavyduty19801u

NAXJA Forum User
Location
laurens sc
Ok I have a customer with an yj that is letting me go carte blanche with his build I am designing a radius arm set up for the front and a four link in the rear. Extending the wheel base to 115"-130" still have to see how the wheels are going to fit 37inch tires on superduty axles. Doing all that we need to build a better 4.0 I am designing a single turbo kit for it was wondering if anyone has ever built a hand made intake for the 4.0 or if anyone knows where I can get a base flange and ill build from there. The 4.0 with the 4.2 stroker kit will keep my comp at a doable 9.0 to 1 and I have seen stationary based on this eng pushing 35# of boost but they are running on natural gas on gasoline I would ha e to keep the boost down to 18-20# max but that still puts me in the 500+ range will the ax15 hold up to that.
 
Assuming you're serious...

I highly doubt anyone makes a flange, you'll have to cut up a stock manifold to make it work.

Secondly, I would seriously upgrade the trans and clutch if you plan to make 500hp with 37 inch rubber...things will break fast.

Which brings me to my last question...what kind of internals are you planning to run to handle 500hp?
 
That's a lotta boost for a wittle 4.0..
It'll work sure, wont last. Think you need to have him think about adding 2 more cylinders to that thing..

The clutch will be one thing.. The bellhousing will not hold up. People crack them on stock motors.
Not sure if the NV 3500 is any stronger.

What's his end goal with only 37s on sd axles?
 
Streetable hybrid rock bouncer. I asked him how he wanted to use the jeep and he told me he wants to be able too go anywhere I tried talking him in to letting me saw it to a 4bt I got one of those in storage that's set up for what we are trying to build the 4.0 to make. I was thinking maybe using a nv4500 for a trans with an sfi bell housing I have a lead on a forged steel crank and a nice set of forged h beam rods and my machinist is working on making a new main cap gurtel out of a really nice visit steel block he had floating around. We are kinda r&d ing this project as we go but he loves these damn sixes and the math works with the boost. We will see if it lives on the dyno.
 
And the sd axles was my recommendation bc he wanted axletech4000 when we were discussing what he wanted the axle techs are way over kill the ad axles are good I can get a set for a reasonable amount and they have a lot of options. And they use a really nice set of disk brakes and he can get parts at any part store. Bc the axles we got set aside for this are from a 01 dually and I want to leave them full width bc his wife drive this thing too and she almost rolled it pulling it to the yard lol. And it's only on 33s now.
 
If you have carte blanche then start with a LS swap.
You will get that 500 number normally aspirated and will be leaps and bounds better on the street and off road than a turbo setup any day of the week. Not to mention all of the trans and transfer case options it opens up.
 
Boostwerks on here has a turbo on his 4.0, but not close to the range youre aiming for. I have to say ls swap or find a better engine to boost of you want to hit 500hp.
 
Boostwerks is your best bet for turbo stuff.
 
Green XJ Jeep said:
Nothing against Boostwerks but he doesn't have any numbers back up his claims
Click to expand...

No one ever claimed he was making 500HP but he's the only one I know of running a turbo on his rig. Few other guys I see running M90's but that's about it.

In any case the 4.0 would be the last option I'd look for to get those type #'s
 
Google: Barney Navarro amc. It's been done in the past with a lot of engine modification, dinosaur era turbos and extremely crude tuning techniques. Why anyone would think this isn't a worth while engine to add forced induction too is beyond me.

Op you mentioned making a custom turbo kit and then asked for an intake flange? If you want to make a turbo manifold you will need an exhaust flange. They are easy to get, just cut apart a stock exhaust manifold. It will be better to take the flange to a laser cutter and ask to have it made out of 9/16th thick steel. This will give you extra material to mill it back flat after you have welded.

If the plan is just to make a distal mount turbo set up, there are plenty of pictures and ideas for that. YouTube jeep 4.0 hx35.

That brings us to turbo selection. I choose to go with a Holset H1C. It fits on a proximal setup, between the block and uniframe rail. To get close to 500hp at the wheels I need roughly 30psi out of this turbo for a 4L engine spinning at 5000rpm. That puts my flow rate well out of the compressors efficiency islands....all of them. Good thing my power goals are not 500hp. Another great thing about the h1c is that it is non wastegated, cheap, easily rebuildable, reliable, clockable and can be afixed with exhaust housing from 21cm to 7cm single volute. Some negatives about the H1c is that it's old tech. It was used on the 6bt Cummins generators in the 80s. Yes, it's about 30years old! That is a dinosour turbo.

OP how do you plan to tune for the addition of this turbocharger?
 
Cummins90 said:
Why anyone would think this isn't a worth while engine to add forced induction too is beyond me.
Click to expand...

Well, because the 4.0L loses much of it's reliability with forced induction and/stroking.

I've only seen a handful last (even when setup properly), only a couple were on rigs that were remotely daily driver's.

The amount of work, for the low amount of gain, drives many away.

In the end, you'll end up into the setup time wise as cost, as it would be to do a 5.3L conversion, and you still won't be hitting stock 5.3L numbers (without overboosting the engine).

Hence, in the long run most people realize it's not worthwhile to force induce this engine, as it make more sense to add a couple cylinders.
 
Cummins90 said:
Google: Barney Navarro amc. It's been done in the past with a lot of engine modification, dinosaur era turbos and extremely crude tuning techniques. Why anyone would think this isn't a worth while engine to add forced induction too is beyond me.

Op you mentioned making a custom turbo kit and then asked for an intake flange? If you want to make a turbo manifold you will need an exhaust flange. They are easy to get, just cut apart a stock exhaust manifold. It will be better to take the flange to a laser cutter and ask to have it made out of 9/16th thick steel. This will give you extra material to mill it back flat after you have welded.

If the plan is just to make a distal mount turbo set up, there are plenty of pictures and ideas for that. YouTube jeep 4.0 hx35.

That brings us to turbo selection. I choose to go with a Holset H1C. It fits on a proximal setup, between the block and uniframe rail. To get close to 500hp at the wheels I need roughly 30psi out of this turbo for a 4L engine spinning at 5000rpm. That puts my flow rate well out of the compressors efficiency islands....all of them. Good thing my power goals are not 500hp. Another great thing about the h1c is that it is non wastegated, cheap, easily rebuildable, reliable, clockable and can be afixed with exhaust housing from 21cm to 7cm single volute. Some negatives about the H1c is that it's old tech. It was used on the 6bt Cummins generators in the 80s. Yes, it's about 30years old! That is a dinosour turbo.

OP how do you plan to tune for the addition of this turbocharger?
Click to expand...
Ther are plenty of people running turbos on their 4.0's. A look at the street and perfornance section shows that.
The biggest question is why for anything other than "just because"?
An LS swap would be way easier 150lbs lighter and make those numbers normally aspirated in near stock configuration, make more torque in the process and do it all day long without the cooling issues
 
It comes down to how much money you want to spend, how skilled you are, how much work is too much work and emissions/inspection in your individual state.

In my case it's easier, cheaper and more reliable to go FI.

Can we tackle to overheating myth while we are here? How long do you hold a vehicle in boost? 10 seconds, 12 seconds? If you wish to ease up take your foot out of it and use gears instead. When your manifold pressure is under 1 atm you are now driving an NA vehicle. If it overheats you have something else wrong and it is not the turbo.
 
Cummins90 said:
It comes down to how much money you want to spend, how skilled you are, how much work is too much work and emissions/inspection in your individual state.

In my case it's easier, cheaper and more reliable to go FI.

Can we tackle to overheating myth while we are here? How long do you hold a vehicle in boost? 10 seconds, 12 seconds? If you wish to ease up take your foot out of it and use gears instead. When your manifold pressure is under 1 atm you are now driving an NA vehicle. If it overheats you have something else wrong and it is not the turbo.
Click to expand...

i think you might slightly be missing their point?... if you have fun with it, and dont mind the cost associated with it, by all means, have a ball.

but at the end of the day, HP per dollar, you cant beat an LS. especially when you factor in reliability compared to stroking/boosting a 4.0. and thats the argument... that faced with those facts, most people opt not to go crazy building a 4.0.
 
Cummins90 said:
It comes down to how much money you want to spend, how skilled you are, how much work is too much work and emissions/inspection in your individual state.

In my case it's easier, cheaper and more reliable to go FI.

Can we tackle to overheating myth while we are here? How long do you hold a vehicle in boost? 10 seconds, 12 seconds? If you wish to ease up take your foot out of it and use gears instead. When your manifold pressure is under 1 atm you are now driving an NA vehicle. If it overheats you have something else wrong and it is not the turbo.
Click to expand...
If a turbo vehicle isnt making boost over 1500 rpm consistantly then there are some serious issues with the design and funtion of the turbo.
There is no "holding" boost if its off idle and under power its making it and the turbo is collecting heat. Then there is the whole intercooler (if used) thing sucking in even more heat into the engine compartment. If an intercooler isnt used then you are blowing some pretty hot air into the motor.
On a low speed moderately high rpm (2-3000rpm) motor with a flat hood in an offroad enviroment you will have over heating issues.
Sure you can design a cooling system to handle it but but seriously how much money is going into the system before all the bugs are worked out.
Over heating and lack of time to figure out the cooling issues is also the biggest reason boostwerks removed his turbo setup.
 
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