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Dana 44 Questions

F

Francesco

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Ventura County
Hello Guys,
I've looked a bunch before posting, but I couldn't find much. I picked up a Dana 44 out of a Ford, its 5 lug, so it must've been a F-150, and its a drivers drop high pinion for my MJ. I plan on shortening it, however I've been stuck on a few things.

First of all, are the Chevy or Ford brakes better, and will they both work on a 15? I've been hearing both, and wanted to know if there was a difference, although I'm sure they're both much better than a Dana 30.

Next, what is the difference between the Ford and Chevy knuckle? I understand the Ford one cannot be machined for hi-steer, but if I end up purchasing Reid Racing knuckles, what is the difference between Ford and Chevy knuckles then?

Thanks,
Francesco
 
A lot is gonna have to do with spindle mounting! I would stick to Chevy stuff depending on what bolt pattern you are looking to achieve.
 
As I just picked mine up and still learning I'm chime in a little. My understanding is the Chevy knuckles have flat top you can use for the high steer. If you go with Reid or parts mike, you should just be able to use those and shouldn't matter GM or Chevy. This website has some good info

http://d44tech.com/Front_axle.html

As for brakes not sure there is a big difference other than matching up the rest of the knuckle parts to be the same.
 
smokeyyank said:
As I just picked mine up and still learning I'm chime in a little. My understanding is the Chevy knuckles have flat top you can use for the high steer. If you go with Reid or parts mike, you should just be able to use those and shouldn't matter GM or Chevy. This website has some good info

http://d44tech.com/Front_axle.html

As for brakes not sure there is a big difference other than matching up the rest of the knuckle parts to be the same.
Click to expand...
ford also had knuckles that are safe to machine and use for high steer, but they are far less common than the chevy flat tops. there are significant differences between chevy and ford knuckles. you cant mix and match spindles. the bolt pattern and center bore is different. so the knuckle you use will dictate the brakes and spindle you use.

i prefer the chevy brakes. but the chevy knuckle has a significantly smaller center bore. if you want RCVs, you will have to remove the knuckle to remove the shaft, it will not fit through the knuckle like it will with a ford. RCVs will also not fit through the reid chevy knuckle.

i bought my 44 used, and it was already narrowed. personally i wish it was still full width.
 
Good to know! Still learning little tidbits.
 
When I did mine, I used a 1977 ford hp44, chevy knuckles and spindles (small bearing spindle) from 1974 chevy blazer, 1977 ford 5 lug rotors, chevy calipers and brackets.

If I did it again, I would go 8 lug. And not run a 9" rear
 
Thanks for the advice guys. One day I may rcv which leans me towards the ford, but is there an advantage to the Chevy wheel bearing setup, or is it actually a downside because they're smaller? Right now I have a 5 lug Ford axle with discs which makes me think it's a 76-77 f100 axle, so all I'd need is the knuckles for hi steer if I kept Ford, or the knuckles out on a Chevy.

Also, why didn't you like shortened axles, what makes you prefer full width? I'm planning on shortening mine because I have a MJ Dana 44 in the rear, and I'm concerned about turning radius and overall width on the street and the trail, as this is still a DD rig. Any advice is welcome.

Edit: one if the reasons I was considering the Reid knuckles was the 4th bolt hole on the steering arms, will that really make a difference? Not running full hydro but I very well may do assist.
Thanks
 
Francesco said:
Thanks for the advice guys. One day I may rcv which leans me towards the ford, but is there an advantage to the Chevy wheel bearing setup, or is it actually a downside because they're smaller? Right now I have a 5 lug Ford axle with discs which makes me think it's a 76-77 f100 axle, so all I'd need is the knuckles for hi steer if I kept Ford, or the knuckles out on a Chevy.

Also, why didn't you like shortened axles, what makes you prefer full width? I'm planning on shortening mine because I have a MJ Dana 44 in the rear, and I'm concerned about turning radius and overall width on the street and the trail, as this is still a DD rig. Any advice is welcome.

Edit: one if the reasons I was considering the Reid knuckles was the 4th bolt hole on the steering arms, will that really make a difference? Not running full hydro but I very well may do assist.
Thanks
Click to expand...
the strength difference between ford 1/2 ton bearings and chevy 1/2 ton bearings is negligible.

there is more to turning radius than just width. i have very nice forged alloy beadlocks without a ton of offset, which gives a better scrub radius. i think i would be happier with narrow axles if i redesigned my long arms so that the lowers give the tire more clearance at full lock. i will have to do this when i step past 35s. also, 35-45 degrees of steering is useless without the clearance to turn. the wheels i have would compliment a full width axle and still not stick out a ton.

you wont be disappointed in reids...
 
My 44 consists of machined Gm flat top knuckles with chevy small bearing spindles, chevy stubs and chevy calipers. Rotors and hubs are ford

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
 
Well, as of now I'm leaning towards Chevy, I found Chevy hubs, spindles, knuckles already machined for high steer, calipers and hubs for only $100. Thanks for all the advice. Does scrub radius have much effect on how the suspension turns, etc? The wheels I have now have a 3.5" backspacing if that matters at all.
Thanks
 
Last edited:
Chevy outers are cheaper and much more common. You can grab it from a 10 bolt or d44, easy to 6 lug or 8 lug. The only reason for 5 lug would be to match a 9". 6 on 5.5 is much more common then 5 on 5.5

The more common things are the cheaper they are. Keep in mind the long term cost. I say this becouse I'm guilty of get a part for free or almost free, but it ends up costing 2 or 3 times more in the long run to make it work.

If you can find a hp44/d60 out of a 70s f250. That would be the route to go. That 44 comes with a flat top passanger side knuckle.
 
Hey Max,
The reason for 5x5.5 would be to match my rear Dana MJ Dana 44, which I can get new shafts for that pattern. I'm trying to budget this axle, and hoping it doesn't get too expensive. I got the axle for roughly 250-300(hard to say because he threw in extras) and it was complete with a DOM tie rod, which is nice and thick. Another 100 for outer shafts and all Chevy stuff, which I can recoup when I sell the ford stuff. The real expense will be a locker and gears, however I'm debating on if I should shorten it first still. Thanks for your advice
 
I think you have MJ and TJ 44 mixed up. The MJ one has thicker tubes than the TJ one and is plenty strong for now. Eventually I'd consider an upgrade, but not right away, which is why I'm not sure if I should shorten it or not, and then just truss it and say it's strong enough.
 
Francesco said:
Well, as of now I'm leaning towards Chevy, I found Chevy hubs, spindles, knuckles already machined for high steer, calipers and hubs for only $100. Thanks for all the advice. Does scrub radius have much effect on how the suspension turns, etc? The wheels I have now have a 3.5" backspacing if that matters at all.
Thanks
Click to expand...
scrub radius has more to do with the steering... steering effort, return to center, drivability, tire wear, those sorts of things.








TJ44 inners, chevy knuckles, splindles, brakes, and ford rotors puts me right at 61" WMS (if i remember correctly)

13312664_1004796186241464_3710418855518779078_n.jpg


just make sure you narrow it to a length where replacement shafts are still click and buy.
 
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