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Chrysler 8.25 vs ford 8.8

A

Adavis58

NAXJA Forum User
Location
West Virginia
Just like the title says trying to get some opinions on which axle is better for my application. I don't plan on running anything bigger than a 36 inch Tire. Either axle is going to be built pretty stout. I don't do any rock crawling at all, just the typical West Virginia trails with some mud. Any input would be helpful
 
If you already have a C8.25 then you do not have to cut and re-weld leaf perches and you have stock drum brakes, unless you convert to disc.

Exploder F 8.8 swap will net you rear disc from the start, but requires removing factory leaf perch and welding in new. The axle is also a bit shorter WMS to WMS, so wheel spacers/adapters will be needed unless you run properly BS'd wheel.

You will also have to choose whether you keep the factory flange or swap to a yoke. Either way will more money, unless you get the adapter and/or complete drive shaft from said exploder.

I say the difference is negligible. If you own a C8.25 29-spl, build and run it. If not, buy a 8.8 for a reasonable price and build that.
--
I have a 29-spl C8.25 open diff 4.10 gears in my 89 XJ, and never had an issue. Granted, only on 32's, but I put my foot on the skinny pedal when necessary.

I also have an Exploder 8.8 3.73 LSD in my MJ. No issues.
 
Last edited:
Yea I agree. The 8.25 has the same axle strength as the 8.8. Good points from these guys! ^^^^^
 
Really the 8.8 is slightly stronger, but as said, it takes work that depending on what you want, it may be easier to keep a 29s 8.25. I swapped an 8.8 in mine since they can be had for cheap here. Did the whole swap in a day, cost about $400 (axle, new brakes, diff cover, ruff stuff swap kit, associated parts). Already had wheel spacers. Biggest advantage was the disks tho. Braking performance was much improved.
 
8.8 has more aftermarket options for selectable lockers if so desired. 8.25 has OX and ARB. Detroit lockers are also available but those aren't selectable. If you want electric, you have to change axles.
 
I went with the 8.8 and ditched my 8.25 for the simple fact that I went from 3.55 to 4.11 gears and discs for cheap. I found a factory D30 with 4.11 so the 8.8 seemed logical. I paid about $150 per axle and another $100 to get the 8.8 perches set up. Discs and better gearing for $400? Yes please.
 
Cottontail said:
I went with the 8.8 and ditched my 8.25 for the simple fact that I went from 3.55 to 4.11 gears and discs for cheap. I found a factory D30 with 4.11 so the 8.8 seemed logical. I paid about $150 per axle and another $100 to get the 8.8 perches set up. Discs and better gearing for $400? Yes please.
Click to expand...

Exactly

Getting the perches welded up is often much cheaper than doing a gear swap
 
I was going to ditch my 8.25 for an 8.8 for the simple factor that the pinion setup in 8.25's suck. ;)

I have had 3 8.25's fail on me during my life with XJ's, all three on pavement at speeds above 30 mph, locking the rear end up. The most recent one was bone stock, never been opened.

The stupid crush sleeves do not hold up and will continue to crush over time.

Thankfully a friend stumbled into a 44 for me, and I've already got a locker and shafts for it in the garage.. but F 8.25's. I'm done with them.
 
cal said:
I was going to ditch my 8.25 for an 8.8 for the simple factor that the pinion setup in 8.25's suck. ;)

I have had 3 8.25's fail on me during my life with XJ's, all three on pavement at speeds above 30 mph, locking the rear end up. The most recent one was bone stock, never been opened.

The stupid crush sleeves do not hold up and will continue to crush over time.

Thankfully a friend stumbled into a 44 for me, and I've already got a locker and shafts for it in the garage.. but F 8.25's. I'm done with them.
Click to expand...

You can get solid pinion spacers for it fwiw.

If I had a choice I would go 8.8 primarily for the disc brakes and C-clip eliminator kits. Having said that, I intend to keep rocking my 8.25 until it locks up on me.
 
cal said:
I was going to ditch my 8.25 for an 8.8 for the simple factor that the pinion setup in 8.25's suck. ;)

I have had 3 8.25's fail on me during my life with XJ's, all three on pavement at speeds above 30 mph, locking the rear end up. The most recent one was bone stock, never been opened.

The stupid crush sleeves do not hold up and will continue to crush over time.

Thankfully a friend stumbled into a 44 for me, and I've already got a locker and shafts for it in the garage.. but F 8.25's. I'm done with them.
Click to expand...

Boostwerks.com said:
You can get solid pinion spacers for it fwiw.

If I had a choice I would go 8.8 primarily for the disc brakes and C-clip eliminator kits. Having said that, I intend to keep rocking my 8.25 until it locks up on me.
Click to expand...


I just paid a shop to re-gear an 8.25 for me, and I took them the crush sleeve eliminator kit with instructions to install that instead of the crush sleeve. When I went to pick up the axle they gave me back the kit and said they wouldn't install it because the dimensions were such that it would not bear properly on the shim surfaces and they thought it would be inferior installation.

Frustrating.

Especially because I would have much rather that they called me and asked which direction to go. I would have gone over and taken measurements and turned my own sleeve.

Next time...
 
I considered going the 8.8 route, but ill run the 8.25, only going with 33s, maybe 35s down the road, and wv doesn't have a whole lot of axle breakers that ive found so far (if you drive with some sense) stronger ring and pinion, truss it, good diff cover, your good to go. You break an axle, prolly not that difficult to swap on a trail. Spin a tube, or like on of my buddies did at bantam, snap a flange, you in for a good time to fix that on the trail.
 
I ran an 8.25 on 33"s for years and I it worked great. I would not run bigger than a 35" on an 8.25, and even then I would be wary of it. some do and have no trouble.

the 8.8 is a stout axle. but it is the heaviest low hanging pig of the 1/2 ton axle world. 35"s are a minimum tire size for that axle.

I have an 8.8 with an ARB and a super88 C-clip eliminator kit/alloy shafts.

I would not hestitate to run 37"s on it if it were a bit wider, and back when they were around Superior told me they would gladly warranty the shafts on 37"s. Mac said he thought they'd be fine for 39"s but no guarantees :D

I consider my 8.8 to be bulletproof on 35"s.
 
rockclimber said:
I ran an 8.25 on 33"s for years and I it worked great. I would not run bigger than a 35" on an 8.25, and even then I would be wary of it. some do and have no trouble.

the 8.8 is a stout axle. but it is the heaviest low hanging pig of the 1/2 ton axle world. 35"s are a minimum tire size for that axle.

I have an 8.8 with an ARB and a super88 C-clip eliminator kit/alloy shafts.

I would not hestitate to run 37"s on it if it were a bit wider, and back when they were around Superior told me they would gladly warranty the shafts on 37"s. Mac said he thought they'd be fine for 39"s but no guarantees :D

I consider my 8.8 to be bulletproof on 35"s.
Click to expand...

How wide is it? How much wider would you want it?
 
Ghost said:
How wide is it? How much wider would you want it?
Click to expand...



With the super88 it is ~1.5" wider than stock.

For 37"s with my current travel I'd want it at least 4" wider. 6" (3" on each side) would make it comfortable.
 
Anak said:
I just paid a shop to re-gear an 8.25 for me, and I took them the crush sleeve eliminator kit with instructions to install that instead of the crush sleeve. When I went to pick up the axle they gave me back the kit and said they wouldn't install it because the dimensions were such that it would not bear properly on the shim surfaces and they thought it would be inferior installation.

Frustrating.

Especially because I would have much rather that they called me and asked which direction to go. I would have gone over and taken measurements and turned my own sleeve.

Next time...
Click to expand...


Ugh. I have no patients for shops that do 2/3 the job and expect to be paid for it.
 
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