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Balancing your larger tires...best method?

R

ryan13

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Westfield, Ma
I have been running my 35x12.5x15 MTR's unbalanced for about 6 months now and have not had many issues besides a slight wobble. I have (for the time being) simulated bead lock steel wheels so the traditional wheel weights do not work on the front lip and sticky weights are a waste of time IMO on an offroad vehicle. My ZJ see's a lot of road use before getting to the trails so a smooth ride is important.


Have you used balance beads?
Would you recommend them?


Any input is welcomed since the internet seems to be split on opinions for the balance bead debate.
 
Steel weights work on the inside of the wheels quite well. Balance them with weights first and use beads is what I've always been told. I love the dynabeads in my motorcycle tires but they are a bit smaller ;)
 
i always prefer static balanceing (weights) rather than dynamic balancing (beads)

clip on weights get grinded off easy, stick ons (inside the rim) are what you want.
if a ton of weight is needed, a good shop should be able to force match the tire/wheel.
now that i am on beadlocks and have little caliper clearance... i just use balance beads. ceramic (like dynabead) is exactly what you want.
 
I'm running the same tires with real beadlocks and have stick on weights inside the rim with WJ brakes. Zero issues
 
I used to run 8 ounces of airsoft pellets in each of my 35's. If you go that route, be sure to get the plastic ones, the clay pellets turn to dust.
 
Another vote for stick on wheel weights on the inside of the rim.

I have 33s with walker evans bead locks. Tried air soft bbs and there was a slight amount of oil/grease on the tire/rim and they stuck together causing horrific death wobble.

Had the rims balanced with the stick on wheel weights and it is smooth as glass.
 
ryan13 said:
... and sticky weights are a waste of time IMO on an offroad vehicle.....
Click to expand...

Dunno what would give you that opinion. You can stick them where they won't get ripped off unlike rim weights, and as long as the wheel is clean when they go on they are gonna stay there.
 
I use and have used ceramics on any of my rigs or other wise. The local tire shop caries a powder that they dump onto each rim and it works awesome no issues with tire wobble.

Sent from my 0PJA2 using Tapatalk
 
I use Airsoft pellets in my 33x12.5s, 8 ounces per tire if I recall correctly. It works great. I'm never going back to lead weights.
 
I didn't realize there were so many folks using them exclusively. I easily get an extra 5k miles out of my rear tire on the bike because of them so I may as well drop some in my Jeep too even though I want these tires to wear out so I can get something quieter.
 
I could never get the beads to work properly. always had vibrations.

I use stick on weights.
they barely clear in the front due to my big brake kit, I had the tire shop guy move them into the rim as far as he could, which meant he needed more weights to get it to balance.
 
I ended up giving the tire shop a chance at balancing them with sticky weights. We will see how they hold up in the water and mud but so far it has definitely helped my wobble issue.

I still have a slight wobbly from 40-45 but it smooths out above that speed.

Thanks again for everyone's input. If these do not work long term, I'll be trying either the BB's or the "sand" that the big rig balance shops use.
 
Put a thin coat of clear nail polish over your stick on after they are installed. This will keep the dirt and grease from degrading the adhesive. Any additional weight of the polish will be micrograms and should not effect balancing

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
 
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