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Someone Talk Me Out of 37s or Cheer Me On

themauler

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Va Beach
NAXJA,

I have found myself in a position to trade out right for some TWF 12 Bolt double bead locks with brand new 37 Goodyear MTRs. I am in the process of scanning for some superduty axles to do a ton swap in the next year or two.

I have survived a handful of wheeling trips in my 92 XJ on 35s with dana30/8.25 combo, zero breakage. I am geared at 4.56, spartan locked, and trussed at both ends. The dana 30 has large ujoint axles with full circle clips and OTK Steering.

Besides driving performance taking a dive, is it possible to make it maybe a year or two running 37s? JK dana 30s do it all the time. Clearly this is madness but I do not beat on my axles very hard at all. Will another inch of radius be the straw that initiates axle self destruction?

TIA

Nick
 
The deal of a lifetime comes along about every 15 minutes... I vote no, but what do I know? I'm planning 33s for my next set (up from 32s) because 35s already don't meet my definition of "fitting."

Evidence here:
http://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1122553

If you want to cut your rear quarters all the way to the fuel fill, move the axle and then try 37s, then sure... go for it. Since you're moving the axle you might considering doing links, tons, and coilovers at the same time. You'll probably need to move the gas tank. But now you're $6-8k or more into what started as a "free" trade.

35s are as big as still kinda/mostly fit. You're already pushing the envelope for the limit is for kinda/mostly holding up on a D30/8.25 (you didn't mention 27 or 29 spline). I assume you've seen Crash's "Axles for Rocks" post? (http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=80708)

Brass tacks: The work required to fit 37s (and make them work) goes up by an order of magnitude. The capabilities of the vehicle do not increase by an order of magnitude. As such, I suggest your own signature holds your best path forward... "Just want to build something that won't break on the trail :D"

My 0.02: be content, wheel more, build/fix less. By the way, I'm completely preaching to myself here!
 
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i went from 35 to 37 on a built cj w/ a dana 44 front , soon as i did the front end breakage started w/ u joints inner & outer shafts. i had to upgrade to alloy shafts & ctm u joints to stop the breaking & i didnt drive it hard w/ the stock 44 parts. i did have a arb in the front. it was a high dollar deal to get 1 more inch of grd. clearance, not worth it when i think back. btw the tires sets were both goodyear mtr's
 
Depends on what the tires actually measure at. Most 35s measure at just over 33. Those 37s may measure just over a 35.

Case in point my KM2s advertise measuring 34.8 they are a 315/75/16. They really measure at 33.5.

Measure those 37s under the weight of the rig they are on. They may only measure 35.5 or something. Just something to consider. People running tires don't often measure them. Most 33s measure between a 31 an 32. Don't trust advertised numbers.

I know most swampers run true to size or bigger. MTRS measure close to advertised. Coopers,BFGS measure small etc.

Oh and avoid Toyo mud terrains. They are a heavy tire for there size. My buddies and I call them axle snappers. Not a bad tire but 33 or 35 toyos are gonna break dana 30 parts more than most.

Just food for thought
 
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The deal of a lifetime comes along about every 15 minutes... I vote no, but what do I know? I'm planning 33s for my next set (up from 32s) because 35s already don't meet my definition of "fitting."

Evidence here:
http://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1122553

If you want to cut your rear quarters all the way to the fuel fill, move the axle and then try 37s, then sure... go for it. Since you're moving the axle you might considering doing links, tons, and coilovers at the same time. You'll probably need to move the gas tank. But now you're $6-8k or more into what started as a "free" trade.

35s are as big as still kinda/mostly fit. You're already pushing the envelope for the limit is for kinda/mostly holding up on a D30/8.25 (you didn't mention 27 or 29 spline). I assume you've seen Crash's "Axles for Rocks" post? (http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=80708)

Brass tacks: The work required to fit 37s (and make them work) goes up by an order of magnitude. The capabilities of the vehicle do not increase by an order of magnitude. As such, I suggest your own signature holds your best path forward... "Just want to build something that won't break on the trail :D"

My 0.02: be content, wheel more, build/fix less. By the way, I'm completely preaching to myself here!

Frijole, thanks for the input here. My next phase of build is the direction to 1 ton axles and all of the sheet metal work to accommodate some larger tires. I have been planning to do what boostworks did with his rear fenders for a while now. Even to include his shock brackets.

My only thought out of this where it is reasonable to snag some brand new 37s and wheels that I can recenter when I do a axle swap. Planning ahead a bit :scottm:

Depends on what the tires actually measure at. Most 35s measure at just over 33. Those 37s may measure just over a 35.

Case in point my KM2s advertise measuring 34.8 they are a 315/75/16. They really measure at 33.5.

Measure those 37s under the weight of the rig they are on. They may only measure 35.5 or something. Just something to consider. People running tires don't often measure them. Most 33s measure between a 31 an 32. Don't trust advertised numbers.

I know most swampers run true to size or bigger. MTRS measure close to advertised. Coopers,BFGS measure small etc.

Oh and avoid Toyo mud terrains. They are a heavy tire for there size. My buddies and I call them axle snappers. Not a bad tire but 33 or 35 toyos are gonna break dana 30 parts more than most.

Just food for thought

These are military 37s so I'd imagine with stiff sidewalls they measure somewhat close to 36". Just a guess really.
 
Yeah if those are the Michellan military tires those suckered are heavy. In which case there is no way I'd fun those.



They are the Goodyear MTRs that came out before the Kevlar MTRs. So I don't suspect them to be as heavy as say a interco 37" tire.


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37s on a ubibody will not last more than a week they are ungodly huge and require at least 20 years of advanced fabrication knowledge to make work under an XJ...This is why I do not have 37s under my XJ they are just way too hard to make work .;-)

If you want the 37s and are not a rock bouncer run them...truss the 30 and 8.25 cheaply and a couple other small things and its should be pretty reliable ...a 37 12.50 is not big rubber .
 
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a341060bdfd9c3352b03724e117ef18c.jpg


I fit 37s on a 3" lift zj with no major problems but lots of hammering to clear.

Sent from my 0PJA2 using Tapatalk
 
If the military tires are 16.5 don't even think about it! What a pain,the only thing good about these tires is they are cheap. I have a set on my F350 only because 16.5 tires are hard to find and expensive . If you air them down they come lose from the rim, same if you have a flat. There is nothing that holds the tire to the wheel only a slight taper. My advice stay away from the military 16.5 tires. Thanks
 
If the military tires are 16.5 don't even think about it! What a pain,the only thing good about these tires is they are cheap. I have a set on my F350 only because 16.5 tires are hard to find and expensive . If you air them down they come lose from the rim, same if you have a flat. There is nothing that holds the tire to the wheel only a slight taper. My advice stay away from the military 16.5 tires. Thanks



The tires come on re centered H1 double bead locks.


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If you want the 37s and are not a rock bouncer run them...truss the 30 and 8.25 cheaply and a couple other small things and its should be pretty reliable ...a 37 12.50 is not big rubber .


They are both already trussed. The only thing I haven't done is gusset the axle Cs on the dana 30.

I would be surprised if I had enough power from the 4.0 to even break anything beyond an axle shaft.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Nick,

I'm currently running 37 BFG baja's that are military take offs and was up at Pots with CTB back in July. Yes the side wall is stiff but dropping down to ~8 psi and they work decently. On road they ride just fine and are actually quite quiet. Parked next two my buddy's rig on 35" MTR's and the tires are nearly the same height. I've been on these tires for almost a year now and have had no breakage in the drivetrain/axles that was the cause of these tires(only break was a driveshaft b/c I set it on a rock). It's all in how you wheel. Some will tell you to stay as far away as you can and others will tell you to give them a shot. I like them and will continue to run them until I find myself needing a better tire.

With all that said, these tires are cheap and plentiful. If you're not planning to do a full swap for another 2 years, then maybe its best to wait and buy some tires then and continue to wheel without having to be conscious of skinny pedal use.
 
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i wouldnt just based on the tire. i've never been impressed with military goodyears offroad. whats the rim bolt pattern? would be kind of odd to see H1s with 5x4.5 bolt pattern...
 
i wouldnt just based on the tire. i've never been impressed with military goodyears offroad. whats the rim bolt pattern? would be kind of odd to see H1s with 5x4.5 bolt pattern...



This is a picture from the for sale post.
d3a81b1db1aaf3cf3c044bb989cff42b.png


They are re centered for 5x5 which I am already running with adapters. I thought people loved the civilian version of these tires before the Kevlars came out no?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
i wouldnt just based on the tire. i've never been impressed with military goodyears offroad.

this... they are garbage compared to most of the radials available. run them if you feel you cant pass up a "deal". but i predict that as you step to tons youll be asking more from your tires than they can deliver... and you will replace them.

16.5 is a dead rim size anyway.
 
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