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Rear defrost circuit

IndianaJohn

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Indiana
New XJ owner here, but not new to Jeeps. First Chrysler built Jeep tho....
Anyway, just bought a 98 Sport 4.0, auto, 4x4 for $700. It has an electrical issue carried over from a hack job a DPO did. They had spliced into the start wire from the key switch and ran it straight down to the solenoid on the starter, bypassing the start relay and 30 amp maxi fuse in the PDC. Unfortunately I didn't know what that stray yellow wire running thru the firewall was for, so I removed it when I took out all the cobbled wiring that was for the old snow plow lights that I removed. A couple days later I tried to start the Jeep. To my surprise, it refused to crank over. So I started to troubleshoot the problem. Quickly found the Starter/HBL maxi fuse blown in the PDC. Replaced the fuse, but still no start! Did some reading online and learned about the infamous starter actuator failure issue. Ordered a new one, replaced it, still no starter action. But that's when I noticed the cut wire with a yellow wire spliced into it off the ignition switch. So I removed what was left of the yellow wire and spliced the original back together. You guessed it, still no crank. Started to get really frustrated now. So after some serious troubleshooting with the meter, I determined that the start relay was getting power with the key in the start position and was activating, but not getting to the solenoid. So, assuming the wire going down the the solenoid was bad, I ran a new wire from the output of the relay down to the solenoid. Jeep cranks over and starts right up. Problem solved, right? Not exactly. A couple of weeks later, I was fooling around with the dash switches trying to figure out why the rear wiper wasn't working (a problem for another time), and hit the rear defrost switch too. Went to start the Jeep. You guessed it, no crank again. Checked the maxi fuse and of course it was blown. After thinking about for a minute, the bulb lit! Apparently the DPO had tried to fix a problem with one circuit (rear defrost), by "fixing" a different circuit. :flamemad: Replacing the fuse and hitting the defrost switch confirmed it. So now I have to fix the real problem, the rear defrost circuit. Which is complicated by the fact that it also has heated mirrors running off that same switch, so it could be an issue in three different locations. However, my skill with Google has yet to turn up a schematic for these circuits. And without a schematic it's pretty tough to trace thru the circuits to find the apparent short. If anyone has a link to a site where I could find this schematic, I'd sure appreciate it. Or if anyone has a clue how I can at least separate the heated mirrors from the RWD to narrow down where the problem might be, I would be thankful for that too.
Sorry for being so long winded, but I figured it might help to give the background on the problem. Or at the least, someone might enjoy a good DPO story!
Thanks for listening.
IJ
 
This is for a 97 likely the same. If not I have one for a 99. Some wiring diagrams available here, http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html

97_Defoger.png
 
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Thanks! This should really help me. I do have a Chilton manual on the way, but I know those wiring diagrams aren't always accurate. If I'm reading this correctly, I should be able to pull fuse 14 and separate the mirrors from the RWD. I'm assuming by "power" mirror, they actually mean heated. At least that is the way it appears from the symbols they are using in the schematic. So I guess that is my next step.


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Not sure if the diesel motors are wired the same as the gas motors, but I had a 98 euro spec that would blow the starter fuse all the time. I finally figured out the fuse for the starter was wired to the rear defrost circuit from the factory. When I dove into the problem, I found the wires running though the rear hatch were broke in half and touching. As soon as I would turn on the rear defrost it would blow the fuse. Took me months to figure out as the wire diagram for those are hard to find.
 
Well, I'm officially baffled. I did open up the rear hatch to check things out back there. No bare wires anywhere, so I unplugged the connector feeding the grid, and tested for continuity across the two wires coming out of the body side connector. No short showing across those wires. I even tested from each wire to body ground and no continuity there either. I thought that was rather strange, since the schematic shows the black wire going to ground and the black/white being power from the relay. So I pulled the fuse for the heated mirrors, left the connector for the grid disconnected, plugged the relay back in, turned on the key and hit the button and instantly blew the 30 amp fuse again. Now with the mirror fuse pulled and the grid disconnected, there should be no load on that circuit whatsoever! And yes, I did test the relay. I also tested the relay socket, and have ground where it should be, power from fuse 12 with key on, and hot from the 30 amp fuse. I'm showing 25 ohms resistance on the terminal which feeds fuse 14 (mirror heat). Not sure where to look next. Luckily I made up a pigtail to replace that maxi fuse with a regular ATM fuse for testing purposes. Much rather replace 50 cent fuses than $2 ones.....


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so based on that info you removed the fuse to the heated mirrors. and then the 30A still blew. did you have the rear grid disconnected? try to unplug the wire at the switch and check for any continuity to ground on that side. could have a cut damaged wire shorting to ground on that side.
 
Well, I finally found the short! If I were giving out a prize for the correct guess, Vernicious would get it. Turns out it was in the harness running up to the hatch from the left rear corner. The fact that I was not getting any continuity between the body and the black wire up at the hatch connector was really bugging me. That is supposed to be the ground from the grid, while the black/white is the power. So I followed the harness back to the left rear corner of the body. I removed the left rear interior panel and found the connector that plugs into the harness going up to the hatch plug. I also found the body ground where the black wire attaches. I unplugged the connector that has the black/white wire on it, and checked for continuity from there up thru that harness to the hatch plug. No continuity from that connector up to the hatch connector, or from the body ground where the black wire was attached up to the hatch connector. Obviously a problem in that section of harness, so I began to remove it for inspection. I popped the boot loose and started to pull the wires back thru the hatch, when the plug that feeds the grid pulled right out of the harness along with about four inches of the wire! Okay, we found the problem. The fault was back in too far to find with a visual inspection alone. So after repairing the wires and putting everything back together, everything is working correctly again. Thanks for all the assistance!


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