• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

d30 pinion seal leak

4x4JeePmaNthINg

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Colorado
ok so i think the front pinion seal could be leaking. It could be engine oil leaking on to the diff to but i have not been able to tell yet. anyway is replacing the seal a simple job or is there serious work need to get the pinion yoke back on?
 
The only thing hard about is holding the yoke and getting it torqued down! What year D30?
 
Before you take off the pinion nut, make a mark on the nut and the pinion shaft (punch a dot on both). When reassembling you just need to line up those dots again. Use some red loctite since the locking nut may not hold as tight as when it was new. I would not recommend trying to torque it, this usually leads to being tighter or looser than it was and can cause bearing failure. Using the dots will ensure it goes back on to exactly the same spot.
 
Use blue, not red, Locktite, or use none at all.

D30s use shims, not a crush sleeve, torque the nut down tight, hit it with a light impact and be done with it.

It's leaking because the yoke is warn, most likely, seal will last a year or so then leak again, as does mine.
 
D30s use shims, not a crush sleeve, torque the nut down tight, hit it with a light impact and be done with it.
.
LP30s use a crush sleeve. HPD30s have shims.
Since the D30 carrier comes out some easily, pull it and the pinion and replace the seal. Then torque it correctly.
A yoke holder is a handy for this
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lwade/sets/72157642435320775/
This is also the time to replace the side seals, while the carrier is out.
 
It's a 97 hp d30 and Ifor I pull the carier then it's a hole other job. It's a Donner axle they jeep is a 99. How does the yoke wear vs the seal?
 
Last edited:
You should make sure it's actually the pinion leaking before going through the effort.
If you do change it, check for grooves in the yoke and lube it before shoving it in there.
 
LP30s use a crush sleeve. HPD30s have shims.
Since the D30 carrier comes out some easily, pull it and the pinion and replace the seal. Then torque it correctly.
A yoke holder is a handy for this
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lwade/sets/72157642435320775/
This is also the time to replace the side seals, while the carrier is out.

why does everyone on every freak'n forum turn a 20 minute job into a ****ing career?



OP, drop your shaft, use an awl to punch a hole in the seal and get it started to come out, use a flat screwdriver to finish removal.


Yes, check wear on the yoke. Take some 800 grit wetndry and shoe shine it up to clean the wear area.


With the Jeep on all fours you dont' need a yoke tool, with an impact........won't matter anyway.
 
Last edited:
There is a difference between a leak and a seep. My front pinion seal always looks like it is leaking. I've added maybe a shot glass full of gear oil to it in ten years.

A tiny seep can look like a lot, but in the end it is just a stain. Check and see how low the oil is. Make sure the vent isn't plugged with mud.

Check the other likely culprits first, like the balancer seal, power steering hoses or transmission cooler lines.
 
The yoke can wear a groove where the seal rides but often it doesn't. You won't know until you take it off. Even with crush sleeve you "can" do it without taking everything apart. The goal is to get pinion preload (rolling torque) back to where it was when you started/5 in-lbs higher. With a 97-99 axle its shims not a crush sleeve. Rotate the pinion as you tighten and all should be fine. You can hold the yoke with a pipe wrench, just wrap it with a sturdy rag first to limit the teeth gouging the yoke. The hardest part is getting the seal to go in straight if only using a hammer ;-)
 
Back
Top