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Swapping yokes need torque value.

O

outlander

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Columbus,Ohio
Hi guys...
Ok so im swapping the front pinion yoke on my dana 30 Hp to a ubolt style.
Gonna use a new pinion nut but need to know what to torque it to.
Its a Hp d30 out of a 99 xj so its got shims not crush sleeve.
 
Run it down with a decent air gun (2or3 setting on an IR 231c), with the carrier out. You'll be fine.

x2 on red loctite AND a new pinion (mechanical locking) nut. Changing out the pinion seal is cheap insurance, but make sure you lube the new one liberally.
 
Part of this job depends on how you hard it is to remove the old nut and get the pinion off. I am a bit leery of using excessive hammering from an impact or air hammer to drive off the pinion. Wheels should be up in the air. Hammering action will distort the pinion preload. 160-180 is torque spec as far as I know. Red loctite is not really needed, but a nice to have if using a new nut. They are mean to deform into shape on install. I like to turn and rotate as I tighten to make sure the pinion bearings seat well as they are torqued rather than all at once. Maybe overkill but I've never had a problem doing it this way. Sort of like tightening old style wheel bearings at the axle, rotate as you tighten.... gives you a more accurate install rather than holding the trigger all the way to 300 ft-lbs ;)
 
SPOBI huh? Ok, have fun hammering your pinion into your ring gear with 1,200 BPM!
Sure a lot of ppl do it, but your putting that gearset at risk of chipping...
 
Rule of thumb gleaned from many old school builders. Never use an impact on any gears or anything cast, I've seen too many cast things crack from it, even crankshafts.. That's just me.

On the pinion, I set it for the correct amount of bearing preload with an inch lb beam torque wrench, but I'm kinda anal in that way. I've never had a problem doing it that way. Just measure the bearing preload before you disassemble it and set it the same when you assemble it.
 
Last edited:
What is SPOBI?
 
Thanks to all that replied.
Anyone with fsm care to post what it says in there as far as torque spec for the pinion nut?
For a 99 hp d30 (non crush sleeve)
 
Last edited:
xcm said:
SPOBI huh? Ok, have fun hammering your pinion into your ring gear with 1,200 BPM!
Sure a lot of ppl do it, but your putting that gearset at risk of chipping...
Click to expand...

I never said i was gonna hammer my pinion yoke on with an impact....is that why you said to remove the carrier?
 
Last edited:
I was given bad info and apologize for perpetuating said info.

From my FSM:
(9) Install the yoke washer and a new nut on the
pinion gear. Use Flange Wrench C-3281 to retain the
yoke (Fig. 55). Tighten nut to 216 Nzm (160 ft.lbs.)
torque or enough to remove play. Do not overtighten.
 
Yeah, 160 is what you want. I zip these things off and put them back on with an impact, even ones with crush sleeves, but I'm "careful", rotate it as I'm tightening, like old style wheel bearings, and do check rolling torque. Typically the loosening effect is fairly minimal because you are holding the yoke with a pipe wrench or other tool to keep it from spinning which helps negate the hammering action. It works for me.
 
I really prefer to measure the rolling torque before disassembly, then check it after putting it back together, setting it a few inch pounds tighter, since it will loosen up after a bit of running.
 
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