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Best 4.0 head gasket?

Ecomike

NAXJA# 2091
NAXJA Member
Location
MilkyWay Galaxy
I see a huge variety of head gasket design options on rock auto. Which is best?

I am thinking of the multi layered metal (but I had never heard of such a thing on head gaskets?) victor heinz showns because it has 100% coverage with the silicone bead and the others do not(1), but puzzled by the multi metal???

(1) Edit: I see Felpro's best gasket I missed it the first time I looked), they have 3 of them of varying quality, is MLS, multi layered steel and the most expensive, so I may go with it as it looks as good as the VH gasket and I think has the better name?

Any thoughts folks?
 
Greets; (In the mid-sixties I recall talk around the job that many in olden times used leather for gaskets, and doing valve grinds on the side of the road). Since the sixties I only preferred FELPRO. The main thing was the third re-torque requirement, (In Service Check as per the FSM's), something like 500-750 miles after installation.

I've always liked cork.., lol.., ...'if it's good enough for a bottle of fine wine.., lol.

At Rock Auto I quickly noticed a very modern 4.0 FELPRO head-gasket that states that it is a NO-Re-torque gasket, with little protective dams, blah, blah.

Figuring that FELPRO has done enough studies to improve their product, and have so thusly introduced enhanced versions.., I'd go with them, even over my personal familiar bias to what I have been comfortable with in the past.

My only concern with such applications is the idea that new head-bolts will stretch, i.e., the reason to always use new head bolts, and the reason for the rebuild to operate to normal temps, and then accomplishing a second In- Service-Re-torquing to begin with.., jointly to provide the most evenly sandwiched seal between the block, and head.

I had always used a dimensionally fitted piece of 'flat' case-hardened glass, and oil to check mating surface of head in order to ascertain flatness, and making moves to correct if needed.

Now, I am limited to back yard mechanics, and simply go to NAPA, (lol, my bias), but now with so many choices.., sheesh.., I now wonder if I let the clerk simply hand me a bunch of head bolts, and some gasket whether or not those parts would be properly matched together!

PermaTorqueMLS states; "are more forgiving than other designs and accommodate surface irregularities up to 60 Ra (360 Rz)". (I'll leave that to somebody else to explain that micro-level).

Back in the day I always had good results with the old FELPRO cork, and perma-tex, and obliging the in-service-check re-torquing requirement, albeit a little hassle to dive back into etal for the third check after so many miles.

Seems that there were changes to head bolts, i.e., standard, and yield to torque, YtT.., or is it TtY (!?!). The former bolts could be re-used, the latter not. My guess is one could get away with the second in service torque check on the latter type, but I am uncertain, and most likely no third check required, and if done, it would 'break-the-seal'.

The VICTOR REINZ gasket you looked at sez; "Torque to Yield.., YES". This leads me to believe that you use torque to Yield head bolts, which are elastic, and non reusable. To me, doing an in service check is essentially backing off each head bolt, in proper sequence, and re-torquing to FSM values. Somehow I don't think T.t.Y. bolts would like that. FELPRO Perma Pro states; "no-retorque".

But here is a link that I just found via Rock Auto; http://www.fme-cat.com/Docs/1425.pdf It will probably help you decide what to do with head bolt types, and gasket types that are required to match/mate together correctly.

Seems that the V.R., and Felpro multi-steel gaskets are T.t.Y. types, and thusly require T.t.Y. type head bolts. If you placed both types of head bolts in front of me, I'd be hard pressed to say which was which. So I'd be very careful to get the correct type to mate with whatever gasket you use, i.e., solid, versus T.t.Y. types.

Check out the link above, and see if that helps.

lol.., my two cents.
 
For my some time soon rebuild of a JY motor I picked up I got the victor Reinz kit, 95-3480vr
I forget now which year it's supposed to be for exactly but it was a ridiculously good deal from advanced. Probably had some speed perks towards it too.

The kit has a head gasket, but I got felpro 530 SD, honestly I forget why, just got home after hours on the road my have to look it up again.
I did some reading on it and thought it be better plus rock auto had them in wholesale clearance.

I'll get a pic of all the stuff victor Reinz kit has


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Ah yes the felpro is permatorque sever duty. I used a sever duty years ago on another motor worked out great, permaTorque is new to me.

But I've used metal gaskets on performance motors this was years ago when they were sort of new and a bunch of us figured out Toyota supplier had defective headgasket which would fail under any torque specification ( factory spec was off 20 pounds I think) . Even the retorque after warm up then again in a few hundred miles could not save the oem gasket. The metal layers gasket almost never fails.

Here is the VR gasket set advance had a great deal on them a few months ago.
Well crap my ability to load a picture from the phone isn't working.

It's rear main, valve stem, valve cover, head gasket, Exhaust intake, crank shaft, injector o-rings, timing, water pump, thermostat, and oil pan gaskets,
Oil pan looks like the newer style all one piece, the water pump and thermostat gaskets I think are the newer style that might seal better.


I can't tell from the box the quality of the head gasket
Edit: BTW the VR kit has more than Amazon shows not sure if there are two different kit with this # , forget what I paid but it was ridiculously cheap for all it came with.

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For a stock motor I use the standard Fel Pro head gasket and bolt set, haven't had any problems. It's not like you're going to get 50 more horsepower or an extra 200,000 miles out the engine by going to something fancy.
 
I remember the Supra community loving metal head gaskets but there was always caution that the surfaces need to be perfect no imperfections at all. I'd likely not go metal on a non performance engine or one not coming fresh from a machine shop.

I'd go oem as they seem to last and do well.
 
If I am pulling apart an engine it is typically to modify it so I always run a MLS headgasket. If it is going to get a supercharger or turbo I will also install studs. .02
 
Here's another vote for FelPro SD (Severe Duty). I've used them on
Explorer 4.0's with good results.

I've also used Victor Reinz gaskets which I think are good quality,
but never tried their head gaskets.
 
I remember the Supra community loving metal head gaskets but there was always caution that the surfaces need to be perfect no imperfections at all. I'd likely not go metal on a non performance engine or one not coming fresh from a machine shop.

I'd go oem as they seem to last and do well.



Yeah the 7M heart breakers had that crap gasket changed at the last moment in production and it never was right after. I believe the 1JZ & 2JZ have a multi layered gasket factory.

For a iron head on iron block oem quality is rather proven.


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I am definitely old school. I always coat my head gaskets with copperkote. I have never had a head gasket leak.
 
I am definitely old school. I always coat my head gaskets with copperkote. I have never had a head gasket leak.


That's what I thought too. Just did this a few years ago to the last car with this (Toyota)motor I'll ever bother with. Catching up on the forums after very long time it seems the thinking about copperkoteing has changed. Probably change back in another few years.


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The Fel Pro gaskets are designed to go on dry. I clean the block well, gasket scraper, then razor blade and brake cleaner.
 
The Fel Pro gaskets are designed to go on dry. I clean the block well, gasket scraper, then razor blade and brake cleaner.
That works pretty good on cast block and heads but don't try it on aluminum.
 
I've noticed anything with the old iron block to iron head you can just about beat the living hell out of it. Literally over 200k on almost every one of my jeeps, two have over 300k. They were maintained so there that has to be part of the calculation but when compared to any motor I've had with an aluminum head the old jeep iron motors can take a tremendous amount of abuse and keep on ticking.

The new(er) jeep 3.7/4.7 is a decent design, I believe it was in AMCs drawing board when Chrysler stepped in, however if you think you've overheated or come close to it best be on the look out for BHG signs. It absolutely will not forgive any temperature spike. Same for any other aluminum head motor, the nature of the material makes it this way.

I've just come to appreciate the simplicity of the good old solid designs, the 4.0 is a beast, there may be failures and enough have been replaced prematurely I'm sure, but all these old XJ I see everyday still on the road are there despite tremendous neglect by their owners. I've seen so many "dumbest videos" where some wannabe redneck launches a XJ into a pond or through their old above ground pool because these XJ just don't die easy.


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