• NAXJA is having its 18th annual March Membership Drive!!!
    Everyone who joins or renews during March will be entered into a drawing!
    More Information - Join/Renew
  • Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

SS Brake lines w/ lift

Magus2727

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Draper, UT
I am looking at getting some new brake lines. And a company called Toxic Off road has what I would be looking for. Mainly also have SS short lines for the rear ZJ disc conversion.

Two questions.
1. Have people heard of or used this company for brake lines? (Link to website... http://www.stainlessbrakehoses.com/mobile/product.aspx?ProductCode=TXCJPXJ3 )

2. What harm is there in going longer on the brake lines. I only have about a 3" lift but will be going an inch or two taller. If I get cables for a 5-6" lift then the cables will just be a bit longer right? I can pull them up with a cable spring so they can move when they need to. But other than that, would there be any reason not to get longer ones incase I go with a bigger lift?
 
Any reason you're set on stainless lines? I used 94 Chevy 1500 2wd lines for my front and a Dakota rear line for the T in the back. I'm running a disc 9" in the back and a HP44 in the front. Front lines bolted up to 30 calipers and 44 as well. $14 ea on the front and 10-12 bucks out back. I'm at 4.5" and have plenty of length front and rear.
 
You'll need to keep longer lines out of the way of your tires, so if you go way longer than needed is harder than it should be. I went SS lines and have destroyed two because they ran into the tires at full stuff/full lock, but the second one was my fault for not resolving the routing issue after destroying the first line

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
 
No reason really. Other than looking at the short soft lines I need for the ZJ rear Brakes appear to be about $19 each + tax and I can get the stainless ones for $60 shipped. And then just figured while I am in there just replace them all and then to match.
 
I figured I would get one of those universal automotive spring kits that have 90+ springs in different sizes so I can use them to pull the lines out of the way but would allow for them to pull with out putting stress on the line when it is needed.
 
10-4, fair enough. I was just curious. I agree with Don though too, but you said you'd use a spring to keep the excess away from the tire. Funny this came up, I recently finished my 44/3 link swap and I check everything once a week while it's still settling. My brake line has been touching my tire periodically when I turn one way. I ended up taking some rubber hose, slicing it long ways and wrapping a small area. I may end up adding a spring if it keeps being an issue.
 
Right now I am at 3.5" lift but soon getting a new Cherokee KL to have the wife use as a DD. Then will allow for me to do a long arm and 5-6" lift. Doing the brakes now and to the extent that I am figured anything I have wanted to do I should do now so I don't have to worry about a complete system bleed for some time. Also figured that the SS would outlive the chassis/body of my 95' and would be better pedal feel after replacing the 20 year old rubber lines.
 
I just bought the extended version from RockAuto... Less than $50 shipped to my front door, and had them in 2 days. Not SS, but I don't think that'll matter in the long run.
 
Well first impressions are they look good. Got the 3 peice XJ kit and the 2 ZJ rear short lines.



The block on the caliper side of the rear ZJ short lines are kind of odd and don't really fit the same as the completly square ZJ OEM lines. Not sure if this is to "improve" look or if its just a way to save weight/cost off the end block.

The front XJ lines have the correct type of square block so not really sure why the chose this odd shape that does not sit as well as the OEM on the rear calipers.

One review I heard was that the tube end is not the correct radius and looks like its more for the D35 than the C8.25. There is no option to have the larger diameter tube so you do get a gap. between the tube and the tee block.



you do get enough thread engagement to feel confident that it will hold. But I will RTV around the block to still make sure its sealed up.
 
Notice any better braking performance with the SS lines. I've heard that because they don't expand (like rubber) they stop better? I'll probably get SS either way but am definitely curious how they perform
 
I will let you know when I actually install it on the Jeep. doing the axle swap on Saturday.
 
Back
Top