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Torque Converter replacement?

Bah765

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Noblesville, IN
Just picked up a 99 xj with 250k. Owners claims the motor was rebuilt three years ago. When I bought it he couldn't start it and said when it does start it will just die, and did exactly that.

After a week of troubleshooting and beer drinking we got the motor running with no issues at all. Until you put it in gear that is. You can "coast" in drive but as soon as you hit the throttle it sputters and dies. I can drive in reverse for as long as I want.
From my research this sounds like a torque converter issue. I know nothing about transmissions, ect. So the more advice the better.

Any basic troubleshooting I could do before I swap in another converter? Maybe it could be something else? Best place to buy a new or rebuilt?

4.0,AW4,NP231,maybe 2"lift.

Thanks in advance,
Brendan
 
Judging by the fact that you said it drives fine in reverse, I'm a little doubtful that this is a torque converter issue and not a transmission issue. The torque converter, by nature of being attached to the flex plate (and the crank/rest of the engine) should only ever turn in one direction, whereas any direction changes(forward/reverse) are going to actually occur in the transmission.
 
There is a difference in the pump pressure between forward gears and reverse. Reverse is significantly higher pressure. In theory that might have an impact on the torque converter, but not likely.
 
Some basic things to check:

Google "AW4 solenoid testing" and follow the testing procedure. You can do this from the connector under the hood or at your TCU with a cheap electric volt/ohm meter.

Test the TPS too. The later years the TPS isn't adjustable, so if it tests bad, you'll need to replace it.

Disconnect your TCU, pull the fuse, any difference...if not it may just be an electrical issue.

If that doesn't turn anything up:

Fluid level, should be checked at operating temp, engine running, in park (or neutral).

Fluid color and smell. If it's dark and smells burnt, that indicates your tranny is working too hard, has overheated or both.

Drain the pan into a container...where you're not mixing it with any other fluid, oil or anything else. Run that fluid through a strainer or screen, a paint strainer is best IMHO and check for chunks of metal, sparkly sparkles etc.

Remove the tranny pan, check for more chunks. Check the magnets at the bottom of the pan too. A little "mud" (like tiny metal fuzz) on the magnets is normal.

If you still can't find anything, take it to a reputable transmission shop to check it out (not to any shop starting with "AAmco". They will surely tell you that you need a new transmission and it'll only cost you $3000+. A good shop will tell you a.) what they think the problem is b.) how much it'll cost for them to fix it and c.) roughly how much parts are for the problem d.) steps YOU can take to fix it yourself. Any tranny shop will charge you $600-$700 to R&R the tranny (remove and replace) before any other work is done. Just keep that in mind when your deciding your course of action.

A couple of things about my torque converter issue. My engine ran perfectly, no issues. I drove the truck (MJ) to work that day and then ran an errand with zero problems. I heard a "whizzz" or a "whirr" going up a small hill back to work. I parked the truck, when I went back to leave for the day it started and ran normally, shifted it in to reverse and ...nothing. Coasted out of my spot, put it in drive...zilch. No bump, no clunk, no whirr or whizz. It just would no go. It shifted smoothly when I moved the shifter...it just wouldn't go anywhere.

So, I'd have to agree with JeepNoob...I kinda doubt it's the torque converter (a re-man AW4 torque converter cost me $220) from a local racing shop that does great work. The previous torque converter I got at NAPA for $145 6-7 years ago. If you decide that you need to pull the tranny anyway, even if you're just changing a front seal. That'll give you an opportunity to check the converter physically.

Checking the converter out of the vehicle involves sticking your finger down into it to the first set of gears/splines. That's the stator. That should turn freely going clockwise and should have resistance counter clockwise until it goes about and inch or two around...and then it should just lock (or be much harder to turn). Good luck.
 
Some basic things to check:
So, I'd have to agree with JeepNoob...I kinda doubt it's the torque converter

I should probably change my username, seeing as how I've had my XJ for like 2+ years now and have gotten a little more experience with it. :laugh: That, and I might be a bit inexperienced with Jeeps in general, but I'm not a complete automotive dunce. (Speaking of which, looking at a summer internship with the folks that sell Jeeps and Jeep accessories in Detroit, Motor City. Am excited.)
 
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