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Welded Diff Pics, Run It?

B

banderso

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Stockbridge, MI
I'm kind of embarrassed, but welding my diff didn't go so great. It's a 32 spline full float 60 rear. TIG welded with high nickel filler. Burned in HOT. That's 3/8" plate in the center. Look closely, some of the welds cracked. Half of me says there's no way I'm gonna break this, half of me says this is a time bomb. Would you run it? Thanks.
d77e220c8061e484e4a68a2f62337b17.jpg

99985ececb8e034ad13b402ae22823f7.jpg
 
Welds crack from cooling to fast. If it bothers you grind it out until there is no crack and go at it again,but tig in layers usually doesn't crack all the way thru, I would run it, looks good
 
Looks mostly like crater cracks at the end of your beads. It helps to get into a habit on some materials to back your heat off slow swirling your torch and add an extra drop of filler for reinforcement. A little longer on postflow might also help.
 
go1lum said:
Looks mostly like crater cracks at the end of your beads. It helps to get into a habit on some materials to back your heat off slow swirling your torch and add an extra drop of filler for reinforcement. A little longer on postflow might also help.
Click to expand...
x2

though it looks plenty fine to run.

dantheman! said:
i assume this is a non c clip axle? otherwise how do you get the c clip in?
Click to expand...
D60-ISU

no C-clip... full floater.
 
Here's my welded 14 bolt. Has 3/8 plate invetween each spider. Then it's fully welded onto of that.





Wouldent hurt to add some more weld to yours
 
go1lum said:
It helps to get into a habit on some materials to back your heat off slow swirling your torch and add an extra drop of filler for reinforcement. A little longer on postflow might also help.
Click to expand...

Yea, I'm familiar with that. For whatever reason this wasn't my best effort. I just kind of went hammer down and ignored technique. I think consistency is a big part of what separates amateurs like me from pros.

My mind is a little more at ease. Though I do still have plenty of 3/8 left, so I may throw some more of that in there. Can't hurt.
 
Has anybody experienced driveline vibes due to that much added material? Seems like a decent amount of effort instead of just throwing a spool in.
 
In my case (8.8) the spool would have cost $300+ and i have seen a few failures of said spools. Or spend about $500 on a new open carrier and a lunchbox. Or more on a full case. I have a 14 bolt sitting ready to swap in next year so i didnt want much money thrown at it. So i welded it. It sucks to drive but it works in the rocks. And it was free.
 
banderso said:
Yea, I'm familiar with that. For whatever reason this wasn't my best effort. I just kind of went hammer down and ignored technique. I think consistency is a big part of what separates amateurs like me from pros.

My mind is a little more at ease. Though I do still have plenty of 3/8 left, so I may throw some more of that in there. Can't hurt.
Click to expand...

Run it. I have welded lots of diffs and usually just put about 3 passes over the 8 spots on the spiders that contact without adding extra plate. Never had a failure yet.
 
POSJ said:
Has anybody experienced driveline vibes due to that much added material? Seems like a decent amount of effort instead of just throwing a spool in.
Click to expand...
If you have the option of just throwing a $200 spool in, I'd go that route. For me I think the only 32 spline option is an ARB. So it was either do this, or add the cost of 35 spline shafts. That makes welding a pretty decent cost savings.

I don't think many people running welded are regularly driving fast enough to worry about vibes. Even if you do, the extra mass is pretty close to the axis of rotation and spinning a lot slower than your driveshaft.
 
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