spring plates with bumpstop provision, pros cons conversation

91Heep · Apr 29, 2016

I'm thinking about using a set of the spring plates offered that have a spot for the bump stop to be mounted or for it to make contact.

Are there any issues with over stressing the u bolts or any other known failures while using them.

My setup will be 4" lift with shackle relocators and 33" tires.

91 2 door.

cal · Apr 29, 2016

it depends on how hard you hit them. for a trail rig and crawler it works ok. for a go fast rig, it will eventually cause issues with both the ubolts and the main leaf.

1990JEEPXJ · Apr 29, 2016

I've had them for years without issue. But they are pricey for what they are

91Heep · Apr 29, 2016

Use is on a Slow speed trail rig.

Main reason I'm interested in them is, with my newly installed shackle relocators, my set up is out of whack.

I'm nearly maxing out some stock shocks with BPE's when the axle hits my 4" frame mounted bumpstops.
I could really use the extra 3 or so inches to get some longer shocks with around 10" of travel to get some use out of the relocators I invested in.

As it is now, I don't see any other way to get more down travel.
And my relocators just added .5" of lift which isn't much of a gain for the price.

My setup in the rear is:
dorman 929-301 stock leafs and skyjacker xj55rs 2" shackles, both installed by previous owner & very new.
4" frame bump stops
14/22.5" shocks with BPE's
No swaybar.
Some machine shop relocators, build is similar to RCX design.

Also I do agree they are pricey for what they are.

Hypoid · Apr 30, 2016

I think I understand the question. I think I did sorta the same thing, except I made top plates from 1/2"-A36 to use on my budget boost. Over time, the plates bent a little, the new, hardened U-bolts did not deform.

91Heep · Apr 30, 2016

Hypoid said:
I think I understand the question. I think I did sorta the same thing, except I made top plates from 1/2"-A36 to use on my budget boost. Over time, the plates bent a little, the new, hardened U-bolts did not deform.

I didn't really get around to a question I suppose.

My main question/concern is, do the u-bolts become loose often due to the weight of the jeep resting on one side of the spring plate?

Mostly worried ab the u bolts becoming loose often which could lead to a broken leaf centering pin/bolt.
Or even a broken u bolt over time.

Demonoid369 · Apr 30, 2016

Have you thought of extending the bumpstops by using a 2"x2" square/2"x"3 rectangle metal box tube between the bumpstop and uniframe?

91Heep · Apr 30, 2016

I've seen it done by other folks.
I'm going to be replacing my u bolts anyway so the spring plate could be installed at the same time.

Which is considered a better setup?

mcguyver_xj · Apr 30, 2016

before i swapped axles on my friends jeep we ran bump stop pads off the stock u bolt plate which was a piece of thick flat stock welded across it and sticking off a bit then when we swapped axles we added some shock tabs to the top of it due to shock hoops being added and they barely have shown signs of slight bending so you will be fine

Ronbo · Apr 30, 2016

I built these from scrap:

I now run these Currie bumpstops:

Although I could have made my plates fancier, I like them better because they are independent of the u-bolt plate and never bent. Of course you'll have to make them to match the thickness of your leaf pack.
As strong as the Currie stuff is, they still distorted a little, but they've never loosened.

Hypoid · Apr 30, 2016

91Heep said:
My main question/concern is, do the u-bolts become loose often due to the weight of the jeep resting on one side of the spring plate?

Mostly worried ab the u bolts becoming loose often which could lead to a broken leaf centering pin/bolt.
Or even a broken u bolt over time.

Nope, have not had problems U-bolts loosening up. I exercised due diligence when I changed mine: Torque to spec, re-check torque after driving around a little.

If it matters, my top plate used both U-bolts to secure it.

anthrax323 · Apr 30, 2016

Ronbo said:
I built these from scrap:

I now run these Currie bumpstops:

Although I could have made my plates fancier, I like them better because they are independent of the u-bolt plate and never bent. Of course you'll have to make them to match the thickness of your leaf pack.
As strong as the Currie stuff is, they still distorted a little, but they've never loosened.

Where the hell did you find the Currie spring plates? By the time I finally went to order a pair a couple years ago they were discontinued (even spoke to Currie directly).

91Heep · Apr 30, 2016

Thanks for the insight fella's.

Ronbo, I like that setup.
I may try to mod the plates I'm looking at to incorporate a brace like that.

Ronbo · Apr 30, 2016

anthrax323 said:
Where the hell did you find the Currie spring plates? By the time I finally went to order a pair a couple years ago they were discontinued (even spoke to Currie directly).

I probably had one of the first sets because I've had them for a long while.

ehall · Apr 30, 2016

I wish Currie (or somebody) still made those, they are nice. The only plates I know of anymore are the Dirtbound Offroad plates, and they aren't curled at the ends

TRCM · Apr 30, 2016

91Heep said:
I didn't really get around to a question I suppose.

My main question/concern is, do the u-bolts become loose often due to the weight of the jeep resting on one side of the spring plate?

Mostly worried ab the u bolts becoming loose often which could lead to a broken leaf centering pin/bolt.
Or even a broken u bolt over time.

The only time the weight of the vehicle will be resting on the plate you want to add & the bumpstop is when you are @ max compression (max stuff) on that side of the vehicle.

The other 99% of the time, the weight will be in the same place it is now...on the spring with no contact between the plate & the bumpstop.

91Heep · May 1, 2016

ehall said:
I wish Currie (or somebody) still made those, they are nice. The only plates I know of anymore are the Dirtbound Offroad plates, and they aren't curled at the ends

DPG offers a set as well although it is of similar design to dirtbound.

http://dpgoffroad.com/products/dpg-adj-rear-bumpstop-plates-xj/

91Heep · May 1, 2016

TRCM said:
The only time the weight of the vehicle will be resting on the plate you want to add & the bumpstop is when you are @ max compression (max stuff) on that side of the vehicle.

The other 99% of the time, the weight will be in the same place it is now...on the spring with no contact between the plate & the bumpstop.

I do understand that I just think it's alot of weight for one little doodad to hold up.
Thanks for the explanation though, sometimes folks need it.

That would only happen with extreme flexing though, after thinking about it, that shouldn't happen very often.
I don't think it will anyway.

....................................
I'm going to order them from dirtbound, if anyone knows of a better set with more strength added to them I'd like to see them.
Also if anyone knows of a shock length/spec chart, I'd really appreciate a link to it.
I've searched alot and can't find one exept for KYB and monroe.
I'm after some lower cost shocks like skyjacker 7000 or 8000's, superlift white bodies, procomp 3000 or Rancho 5000 and the like.
I don't travel on road any at all so I think anything more than those is over kill for my rig.

trippled · May 2, 2016

I built some spacers out of plate and 2x2 tubing up from the axle to hit my bumps. They worked good and held up fine, even when whacking them hard hitting bumps a little too quick. A word of caution tho, if you find yourself hitting the bump stops hard, you will start to buckle the frame area in. They needed to be plated around that area as a minimum if you plan on using them, IMO. This happened to me, and I left them off for now since I plated the whole frame. I'll do something different next time around.

91Heep · May 2, 2016

trippled said:
I built some spacers out of plate and 2x2 tubing up from the axle to hit my bumps. They worked good and held up fine, even when whacking them hard hitting bumps a little too quick. A word of caution tho, if you find yourself hitting the bump stops hard, you will start to buckle the frame area in. They needed to be plated around that area as a minimum if you plan on using them, IMO. This happened to me, and I left them off for now since I plated the whole frame. I'll do something different next time around.

For bracing.... Perhaps some heavy (thick) 1.5" or 2" angle iron covering the area.
A piece against the frame part as long as possible while being able to sit flat and then welding the tubing to it?
Sort of the same orientation as a track bar mount, how it covers two sides of the framework then the bracketry extends off of that piece.
Although if you don't have any scrap pieces that could get comparably costly.

spring plates with bumpstop provision, pros cons conversation

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