Project Mall Crawler: BIG Brake Upgrade Questions

The title says it all. 100% Street Jeep.

Want to upgrade to big brakes on the front.

Also, the wheels I want to run are 5 x 5, so I want to swicth the bolt pattern while I do it.

What's the best way?

The easy answer is to tell you to go search for WJ brake conversions.

Personally I think that response should be a violation of the Geneva convention.

Since you want to go to 5 on 5" that will change the formula for you. I don't know if it will be as simple as running WJ unit bearings and rotors. You will have to do some research on that. Cal or Dallas (StinkyFab) might be able to help you there.

What follows from here is a cut and paste of the bulk of my research after I got a couple of hours into it and realized how much was out there and how many different formulas, most all of which seem pretty reasonable. There is plenty more than this to go find, but this will at least give you a sense of what is involved in the WJ brake swap and you can then search according to your needs. Note that this is not organized in any fashion. I simple started cutting and pasting info as I found it. I have not yet done the swap, but it is in the plans. Enjoy:

(Okay, I am going to have to break this into two posts...system doesn't like it as one...)

XJ to WJ brakes. Notes

[FONT=&quot]Just some confirmation notes. I finished putting my stuff back together with the new hubs and this is what I found in regards to spacing:

2001 TJ Hubs, Akenobo calipers, Sport Trac rotors

The rotors DO need to be spaced out by a one washer thickness. They sit too far inboard just bolted up. You might be able to get away with it as the pistons float, but having the rotor centered in the caliper is probably more ideal. I do not think spacing the rotor out will be an issue.

In case others are wondering about steering: I did lose a little bit a turn radius with the stock XJ pitman arm. The WJ arm is a bit longer, but has less drop. To keep my angles correct, I ended up getting a Waggy dropped pitman arm. It is longer like the WJ and has the same drop as the stock XJ arm. I got mine through PORC and they had the best price I could find.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]I used some 1/2" grade 8 washers that were about 1/16" thick to space out the sport track rotors.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]From jdbwrx on , October 30, 2009[/FONT]
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[FONT=&quot]Will somebody tell me if I have the information right, here?
1.) Spacing the unit bearing outboard from the knuckle is always necessary, 1/4" spacers like JKS sells do it.
2.) Pre 1990 unit bearings will work with sport trac rotors without having to space out the caliper bracket or drill rotors. You may have to space the rotor with a washer on each stud.
3.) After 1990 (up to 01) unit bearings will work better with redrilled WJ rotors. If you use sport tracs with 90-01 bearings, you have to space out the caliper bracket a bit. Some people use washers, some people think that's a bogus fix - but it will "work".
4.) Akebono and Teeves calipers fit identical for our purposes though Akebonos warp rotors less commonly AND fit fewer 15" wheels, though many people clear them on stock steelies or 16" alloys just fine.
5.) Wj steering linkages are too wide. XJ stock stuff will run on a WJ knuckle just fine, though if you take advantage of the knuckle to knuckle tie rod and higher drag link you'll need to go OTA with your track bar as well.
6.) Ruffstuff covers are hard to clear, requiring WJ tie rods with the offset and even then it's iffy.
7.) The MC bore is the same between WJ and XJ stuff of all years. The late model XJs had a double diaphragm booster, the early ones didn't. WJ booster is a good swap for the old XJs but not the new ones. A 98 Durango master cylinder (1 1/8" bore) will help with a firm pedal feel in a WJ / ZJ equipped XJ.

Is this all good? If so... sticky it... I get dizzy with all the WJ swap threads and don't have the short-term memory or the paitence to keep it all straight![/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]From yossarian19 on Naxja, November 8, 2009[/FONT]
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[FONT=&quot]To clarify the front end of my XJ..........I'll try to get a better pic up soon.

98 XJ HP Dana 30:
-stock WJ ball joints
-stock WJ knuckles with JKS spacers welded on
-Milemarker hub kit
-99 Explorer 4wd disc (enlarged to fit hub kit)
-Stock Akebono (spelling) calipers and mounts
-Washers to space the caliper correctly
-JKS drag link and tie-rod specific for the XJ/TJ
-stock WJ TRE's
-Factory YJ Pitman arm
-Ford super duty steering stablizer with a homemade tie-rod bracket

Trac-bar:
-RE HD bar with their bracket
-Factory mounting location on axle

Everything is bolt on, the only welding I've done is the spacers on the knuckles. I bought the higher trackbar mount from JKS, but since the bumpsteer was not noticeable I really haven't bothered to install it and shorten my trac-bar. When the axle gets slid out from underneath it to replace the control arm bushings this month, I might think about installing it. Or will save it for my 609 build.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]From CartsXJ on , November 24, 2009[/FONT]
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[FONT=&quot]Just to provide another parts list:
WJ knuckles
WJ ball joints
JKS spacers (welded on)
WJ Akenobo Calipers
2001 Ford Sport Trac Rotors (spaced out from hub flange by 1/16" washers)
2001 TJ Hubs (ground to fit inside sport trac rotors)
Ballistic Fab track bar brackets
1.5"x.25" wall DOM tubing (drag link, track bar and tie rod), weld in threaded inserts
Teraflex offset tie rod ends
Goferit tie rod flipserts
Chevy 1 ton drag link ends (pitman arm and knuckle)
3/4" heims on both ends of track bar
Waggy dropped pitman arm (longer arm than stock XJ but same drop)

I will try and get some updated pics up in the next few days. I recently went to the TRE's on the drag link and am happier with that than the heims. If I could, I would make my track bar a bit longer. While the angles are good, becasue it's a few inches shorter than the draglink I do get some bump steer off-road when the suspension is moving more. There is no bumpsteer noticeable on the street.

In canse anyone is looking for WJ ball joints, I found a good deal on an entire set on Ebay. Seller is worldsuspension $41 shipped. We'll see how they hold up though...

I am not sure I would do this exactly the same if I had to do it over again, but it works. [/FONT]
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[FONT=&quot]From jdbwrx on , November 30, 2009[/FONT]
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[FONT=&quot]When using the WJ calipers, do you reuse the XJ soft brake lines? [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Yes you can. But a great upgrade for us lifted folks is front lines out of a mid 90's Chevy 3/4ton pick-up. Much longer and bolt right up. Granted the best up grade would be to stainless braided lines, but having the ability to run to a local parts store and getting a replacement line over the counter goes along way in a pinch.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]I used YJ ones. [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]On a side note.....

Anyone doing this swap, do yourself a favor and ditch the WJ drag link ends and use the high misalignment chevy 1 ton ends for your drag link. The WJ end at the pitman arm has less range of motion than my stock steering did. It also eliminates the need to source a RHD TRE for the knuckle end of the draglink when you run this setup OTK. You can't use the JKS draglink with the Chevy DLEs but you can fab one out of DOM for about the same price.

I am using ES2026R and ES2027L Chevy 1 Ton DLEs. (Someone double check me on that plz) Some good info on 1 ton TREs here: [/FONT][FONT=&quot]http://www.jeepfan.com/tech/tierod-id.php[/FONT][FONT=&quot][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]From RidgeRunnerXJ on , January 2, 2010[/FONT]
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[FONT=&quot]Funny you ask......I just finished this upgrade.....I installed a set of used 2004 Wj knuckles with Akebono Stainless Calipers (local wrecking yard). They are a direct bolt on to the 30 inners. I attached EBC 2002 Ford Sport-trac 4x4 front rotors directly onto 2002 Tj bearings after removing the studs and shaving the Timken bearing housings to accept the rotors. I had a pair of shims water-cut to properly space out the rotors and center them in the calipers because the spacers that you order come too thin ( I have an extra set of spacers for sale FYI !!!!!! ). I then ground down about 0.350" from the calipers to clear my 15" aluminum wheels. I installed a Vanco Hydro Brake unit with my stock M/C. To complete it I tried to install a set of screaming Yellow EBC pads, but couldn't find any in stock, so I settled for EBC Ceramics. It is really a pretty simple install. Don't be overwhelmed by it at all. Alltogether I recommend this over the cost of a Vanco setup. Besides, I also installed a 1999-2004 Wj Steering link and narrowed and strengthened a stock Wj tie rod for a true crossover semi-high steer set up at the same time. It by the way clears my Currie sway bar brackets just fine. Hope that helps. j0hnnycarrera [/FONT]
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[FONT=&quot]From j0hnnycarrera on , January 17, 2010[/FONT]
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[FONT=&quot]I'm building a HP 30 from a '99 XJ for my MJ project with WJ steering set-up. So far the list below is what I've compiled. What am I missing?

WJ Knuckles - Right/Left
WJ Ball Joints - New Top/Bottom for both Sides
WJ Tie Rod Ends - 4 - 2 tie rod/ 2 drag link
WJ Akebono Calipers and all related brackets/bolts
GoFerIt(sp?) OTK Flip Inserts - 3 Welded In
New Unit Bearings - 00-01 XJ or TJ
New WJ Rotors redrilled to 5x4.5
JKS .25" Knuckle/Hub Spacers - Both Sides (2)
JKS Drag Link and Tie Rod (XJ, MJ, TJ length)
TNT Dana 30 Truss with built in Hysteer/OTK Trac Bar mount
RE Drop Trac Bar mount
RE XD Trac Bar/Shortened for OTK[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]From woodkrawler on , January 26, 2010[/FONT]
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[FONT=&quot]See XJeeper’s write up here: [/FONT][FONT=&quot]http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?p=244889360#post244889360[/FONT][FONT=&quot][/FONT]
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[FONT=&quot]Thanks guys for all the info, it has helped simplify the process so far(but I haven't started the real work yet).

Do I have everything I need for this conversion on my 2001 XJ? Here is yet another list of parts I have gathered for people looking into doing this(Hope it helps, I like seeing lists). If anyone sees anything I am missing, please let me know.

-WJ knuckles[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]-WJ calipers (Akebono) and brackets and new pads
-WJ rotors (going to redrill)
-JKS knuckle flange spacers
-JKS tie rod with their jam nuts
-JKS drag link with their jam nuts
-JKS over the axle mount for trackbar (I plan on cutting and sleeving my RE trackbar)
-JKS extended sway bar mounts
-4 moog WJ TRE's (part numbers: ES3472, ES3473, ES3474, ES3475)
-WJ lower ball joints (K3185)
-XJ upper ball joints (K3134)
-Goferit for tierod flip inserts
From what I gathered, my unit bearings should be fine since its a 2001?[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]I am into it about $800 with tax and everything so far. Ouch! However, Eric from knowwhere2jeep.com gave me a hook up on all the JKS parts, so give him a call if you need anything.[/FONT]
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[FONT=&quot]From konadht on , May 12, 2010[/FONT]
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[FONT=&quot]The XJ and WJ uppers are K3134T balljoints, it does not matter which you order they will cost the same and be the same part. I ordered those kits as it involves fewer boxes and line items for me to screw up

EDIT: similarly, whenever you see someone mention using 2000/2001 TJ unit bearings for the WJ swap, they're the same as 1999.5/2000/2001 XJ unit bearings.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]From kastein on , May 18, 2010[/FONT]
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[FONT=&quot]your rotor choices are

- WJ Rotors (require redrilling for the proper bolt pattern)
- '95 (and up?) crown vic rotors - do not require redrilling of rotors nor grinding of Unit Bearings/Hub assemblies
- 2001 Ford Explorer Sportrac rotors are good if you dont mind grinding 1/8th inch off the unit bearing/hub assemblies. [/FONT]
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[FONT=&quot]From djblade311 on , April 30, 2012[/FONT]
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[FONT=&quot]Does anyone have the Moog Part #'s for the 4 rod ends (L&R tie rod ends + the 2 on the Drag link) ?
Thanks in advance! [/FONT]
· [FONT=&quot]If you want stock WJ TREs (all four TREs): [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]o [/FONT][FONT=&quot]Napa 269-3155 [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]o [/FONT][FONT=&quot]Napa 269-3158 [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]o [/FONT][FONT=&quot]Napa 269-3157 [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]o [/FONT][FONT=&quot]Napa 269-3156 [/FONT]
· [FONT=&quot]If you go 1 ton offset TREs for draglink: [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]o [/FONT][FONT=&quot]ES2027 for pitman arm [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]o [/FONT][FONT=&quot]I used an offset 1ton tre from parts mike for knuckle end but cant remember the PN [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]From djblade 311 on , October 1, 2012[/FONT]
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[FONT=&quot]You can run stock XJ steering with the WJ knuckles. The taper is the same and the only difference is that the arms on the WJ knuckles are a hair lower, but not significantly. As with any stock steering, if you have a large lift you will max out the pass side TRE with any droop. I ran stock style steering for a few months after my WJ swap and honestly almost wish I had stayed with it after all the other headaches I have had going to "better" steering. If you don't have much lift and don't feel like messing with cutting and welding brackets on the axle, sticking with stronger stock style steering components may be the way to go.

My setup:

WJ knuckles & Akebono calipers
JKS weld on unit bearing spacer
1999.5+ XJ/TJ unitbearings PN 513158 or TIMKEN PN HA597449
2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4x4 front rotors re-drilled to 5x4.5
Wagner 2004 Grand Cherokee brake pads
XJ upper ball joints
WJ lower ball joints
1.5x.25” DOM track bar w/ weld in Ballistic inserts & Johnny Joints
1.5x.25” DOM steering w/ weld in Ballistic inserts & 1 ton Chevy TRE’s
JKS OTA Track Bar mount modified for more clearance and widened to fit the Johnny Joints.
Front swaybar and mounts removed
Calipers needed to be ground slightly to clear 15" steel wheels.

Also note that the brake lines mount much lower on the WJ calipers than the stockers so you may need longer soft lines. I run 28" stainless flexlines at 4.5" of lift (PN RE1555).[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]From Destroyer on , January 4, 2011[/FONT]

And here is part 2:

[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Regarding Tie Rod Ends:[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Ruffstuff specialties makes some offset ones that are cheaper ([/FONT][FONT=&quot]http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/...Category_Code=[/FONT][FONT=&quot]). However, they use the larger one ton taper (like the Chevy one ton TRE's)

The Teraflex offset TRE's use the smaller stock Jeep taper. At the time I did mine, I found I needed to use something offset in order to clear my Solid diff cover. I was originally running all heims on the draglink, so getting the Goferit flipserts and being able to just drill a larger straight hole was less expensive than buying a reamer. (I think the Teraflex ends have gone up in price since I did it).

I ended up ditching the heims for the one ton TRE's and ended up getting a reamer later anyway. In hind site, I should have just done the TRE's from the start if I was going that route. I just found the single shear heims had some play in the mounting bolts and I couldn't get rid of some "popping." Using the tie rods ends solved that for me.

To go all one ton TRE's, you will need:

2026R and 2027L for the draglink (high misalignment)
2234R and 2233L for the Tie Rod - or the afore linked offset TRE's
1-1/2” taper per foot reamer

If you use a straight tie rod, and have an aftermarket diff cover, and you use 1.5" diameter tubing, and you go over the knuckle, you might have to use offset rod ends in order to clear the diff at full lock.

I think if I was starting from square one again, I would use the stock WJ ends on both the tie rod and the draglink and the JKS stuff. I think it works out to be a bit cheaper, and takes a lot of the guess work out of it (plus I think the WJ parts are almost one ton size anyway). [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]OK, here's a a part list and prices if you use WJ steering parts:

- WJ Knuckles (prices vary)
- WJ Akenobo calipers: Rockauto.com, A-1 Cardone Reman, #18B4826 (right), #18B4827 (left) $62.00 each, $124.00 total
- WJ Rotors: prices vary, but rockauto has some Raybestos for $32 each, $64 total - redrill hole pattern
- WJ Ball Joints: Omix Ada 18036.04 for one upper and one lower - prices vary, found them on amazon for $53.44 set, $108 total
- WJ TRE's: Moog ES3474, ES3475, ES3472, ES3473, about $100 for all 4
- JKS Tie Rod: PN OGS955, $160
- JKS Drag Link: PN OGS956, $100
- JKS Jam nuts: PN OGS957, $20 pair, $40 total
- JKS Flange Spacers: $20 each, $40 total
- Unit Bearings: 2001 TJ Omix-Ada 16705.08, $113 each, $226 total

Options for Over the Knuckle:
- JKS Over Axle Bracket PN OGS920, $50
- Goferit flipserts, $18 each, $36 total

Ball Park Parts Total (not including knuckles, track bar, sway bar relocation brackets, core refund for calipers, shipping, welding wire, etc): $1048 [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]From jdbwrx on , February 7, 2012[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]On unit bearings/hubs[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]1999.5 through 2001 - New Chrysler type unit hubs, ( TIMKEN Part # HA597449 - Jeep Part Number 5016458 )
use Cast dimension brake rotors and Chrysler calipers and Chrysler steering knuckles.
The unit hub/bearing are the same part number for both sides of the vehicle.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]From CJ7-Tim on Jeepforum, January 12, 2007 (More good info about hubs in that post: [/FONT][FONT=&quot]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/any-difference-hubs-360959/[/FONT][FONT=&quot] )[/FONT]
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[FONT=&quot]On steering conversion:[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Since I just spent an hour trying to pin down the info, thought I'd share:

From Knuckle to Knuckle:
Moog ES2233L : Left side
Moog ES2234R : Right side

Drag link, at pitman arm
ES2027L

Drag link, at tie rod (connects to ES2233L)
ES2026R

All four parts are common to the
1981 Chevrolet K10 (half ton, 4wd) pickup truck, though each can be found in a variety of others.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]From yossarian19 on , April 27, 2011 (More good info in thread: [/FONT][FONT=&quot]http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1061482[/FONT][FONT=&quot] )[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Regarding reaming: Save yourself some work and drill the knuckles out to 5/8" first. If you have high misalignment stuff (ES2026R, ES2233L, etc) for the drag link those holes can go out to 11/16 before reaming. [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Ok, here it is, 5.5" lift probably settled to around 5".

Tie Rod, CtC 53.25"
Rod material was 45"
Rod overall length 48"
Using 7/8-16 tube adapters with 1.5" .25 wall DOM and 1 Ton offset TRE's.

Drag Link

Using ES2027L at pitman and right hand offset 1ton TRE.
34" overall
Rod itself is 27" long and I used 24" of 4130 .120 1.25" tubing.
Again using the 7/8-16 tube adapters from ruffstuff.

Trackbar

28.5" CTC still needs a little tweaking to center everything.
Used 23.5" of 4130 1.25" .120 wall
You could easily make this a 24" piece also.
Running 3/4" heims for TB, I grabbed the stainless misalignment spacers and had to bring the width down on the axle side to 1 5/8", and the RE frameside bracket measured 1.960. Trusty craftsman/atlas lathe made quick work of everything.

Basically you're looking at 8 feet of tubing to do this. .120 wall 1.25" chromoly isn't that much and it sure is lighter than the tie rod. I don't plan on beating the drag link or trackbar on the rocks.

Also everything was beveled, plug welded and burned in using my new to me miller 211 autoset.


Oh, one last thing. At full droop 12" of shortbody 7100's with RK 3 link the 24" extended brake lines are not long enough. I'll be ordering some 30 or 32" lines tomorrow.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]From markw on , January 12, 2014[/FONT][FONT=&quot][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Thread about which 15” wheels will fit with WJ brakes: [/FONT][FONT=&quot]http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1116974[/FONT][FONT=&quot][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Are the M12 x 1.25 metric bolts required for the knuckle to caliper mounts single use? [/FONT][FONT=&quot]http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1118060[/FONT]

WJ Knuckles
WJ Calipers (teeves)
Farmer Johnson Offroad spacers
Go-fer-it knuckle inserts
RHD WJ drag link TRE (P/N 52088512)
GM 1ton pitmam arm TRE (drop pitman alreaded reamed for 1 ton)
WJ lower ball joints
Iron Rock Offroad WJ/XJ rotors
Clayton OTK track bar bracket
4'x1.25" x.120 DOM (rebuilt RE trackbar)
7/8" x18tpi x 1" ID tube end for drag link to run GM pitman TRE.
Stock WJ tie rod, removed 4" from center, sleeved, and welded. Moved over knuckle.
Courtesy of WAZZUXJ on 12/6/15. See this thread: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1124255&page=2