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"Ideal" 3" lift parts

P

Petemech

NAXJA Forum User
Location
orange county NY
Hey every one, new to the forum and to XJ'S. I just bought a 98 xj and since the suspension is shot I'm gonna go right ahead and lift it. Ideally this is going to be my daily that will see only light offroading on the weekends. I'm thinking 3-3.5 would be the perfect lift for my requirements.

My main question is if you were going to build a kit from scratch mix and matching components who would you get what from to have a smooth riding relatively tough cost effective lift? Second question is what parts other than the obvious would I need or would be good to also go with a 3-3.5 inch lift. Or would it be best to just buy a kit and work from there to achieve my goal?

Thanks in advance. And yes I'm going to be going through all other components first before I tear into the suspension.
 
I'd go with full replacement leaf packs for the rear. Aal work but sag faster expsially with already shot springs.
I'd recommend purchasing a trackbar as well to help with centering your axle.

With yours being a 98 you may need to purchase a sye. The 97+ have a slightly long output setup on the tcase and are more suspectable to drivelines angle problems.
Don't need to purchase one right off the bat. But be prepared to spend the extra to get it.

When lifting start soaking all bolts with pb blaster. Be prepared to brake the rear shock bolts. And be prepared to deal with stuborn leaf spring bolts. I had to cut apart the eye of one leaf spring to remove the bolt because it rusted to the metal sleeve.
Rust is your enemy.
 
Best option is to mix and match parts to fit what you want.
Dragon has great points, and I second all of them. Get you some Kroil, and start soaking bolts now.
I do say go ahead and get the SYE and install it w/ a new rear shaft when you do your lift. You can also install shims with the new springs at that time. I also purposely broke all the shock bolts, and fished in new stainless ones so I got that out of the way.

For my 4" lift I'm running OME CS033RB rear leafs with the extra leaf removed, Rusty's 3/4" shackles, Rusty's 3" coils, RE 1" spacer, RC adj track bar and Bilstein 5100 shocks on my '00. It rides nice and just slightly firm, but my shackle angle is vertical still. Next on the list are shackle relocation brackets (no-lift version) and some IRO adj control arms.

Mine is 90% daily driver, with a few off road parks thrown in. My main usage is getting to kayak landings and around dis-used fire roads for camping.
 
Side bar: Kroil is awesome but super expensive. A tip I picked up a few years a go from my K5 days was a 50/50 mix of ATF and Acetone. Just shake it to mix it up good.

Depending on your budget will dictate the best route. If you have an open pocket book then I would say do the lift, along with track bar, SYE, upgrade tie rod, drag link, tie rod ends, brake lines, ball joints, u joints, sway bar discos, sway bar bushings. If you want bigger tires, than you'll eventually need to regear your axles and probably address worn steering pump/box. Nothing is ever one and done so just be prepared to always do more than just the task at hand.

As for a lift OME is great for an all around lift and ride. Rough country, Procomp and the other box company lifts are mostly garbage. I have a 3.5 SA kit from RE that the PO put on mine and I personally hate it. Chews up bushings rides like crap and the flex well isn't that great. I know they've changed but I have no desire to ever run a RE kit again. Also as suggested get a new rear leaf pack. It's a crap shoot with rear leafs unless your getting alcans. I would personally get an OME kit. Think it's right there with want you want to do. Have fun!!
 
The JKS ACOS system is nice for the front.

You can adjust if you have heavier components like bumper and wench or if it sits uneven for some reason.
 
Thanks for the responses. I guess I'll probably go ahead and start with ome spring packs, I haven't read any thing negative any where about them. That acos system looks bad ass and is deffinetely an option if I can afford it. One question what springs would you recommend with that because I see minimum lift using the acos set up is 1.5". I guess using a 2" spring would put me at 3.5", I guess an extra half inch front and rear wouldn't be a huge difference.

Also what SYE and driveshaft would you recommend. I'm working on a budget but don't want to go about things wrong. I plan on keeping this thing indefinitely. And if I do a SYE and driveshaft is in necessary to do a Tcase drop?

Carbonxj, your setup and usage seems to match my needs perfect. Its going to be my daily but I need it to get me in and out of the woods for hunting, camping, fishing etc.
 
Unless you go retarded extreme lift(8-10 inches). You usually only need one. Most consider t-case drops Band-Aids. Yes they fix your rear drivelines problems. But they create front drivelines problems and possible mechanical fan problems. Because they tilt the engine and trans assembly not lower it. Go with the sye. It's the better and more recommended method also strong. You also get the benefit of if you do break your rear drivelines some how, you can remove the driveshaft and drive it if "FWD" mode, to limp home.

As for the kits I don't run one. I'm at 3" but I've got a 94, they have a different slip yoke at the t-case. Bit shorter.

Some say to do with a aftermarket shaft, others use a high pinion auto Xj shaft in the rear. The second method is cheaper the first is stronger. When ,if, i go to 4.5 I plan on using a spare front shaft. Mines more of a daily pavement driver. My other car gets all the goodies.
 
Might consider new control arms to set pinion angle correctly. I went with JKS Upper and Lower arms. I installed them probably 10 years ago and the bushings are still going strong.
There's always a trade off between pinion angle (bad angle = drive-line noise) and caster (<5deg = wandering steering).
 
Petemech said:
Thanks for the responses. I guess I'll probably go ahead and start with ome spring packs, I haven't read any thing negative any where about them. That acos system looks bad ass and is deffinetely an option if I can afford it. One question what springs would you recommend with that because I see minimum lift using the acos set up is 1.5". I guess using a 2" spring would put me at 3.5", I guess an extra half inch front and rear wouldn't be a huge difference.

Also what SYE and driveshaft would you recommend. I'm working on a budget but don't want to go about things wrong. I plan on keeping this thing indefinitely. And if I do a SYE and driveshaft is in necessary to do a Tcase drop?

Carbonxj, your setup and usage seems to match my needs perfect. Its going to be my daily but I need it to get me in and out of the woods for hunting, camping, fishing etc.
Click to expand...

If you want to run the ACOS I woild say to acheive your lift with the spring and use that to fine tune. Honestly unless youre planning on running a big burly bumper and winch they arent ideal right now. But to answer your question yes, it woild add whatever to the spring height you use. PCA makes some good springs up front along with OME, there are more and I'll be hunting soon for my next build.

Ironrock has a pretty affordable sye kit, not the strongest one out there but is still pretty stout. Wouldnt recommend the hack and tap though, but its an option.

As said you'll also need to address control arms. Huge toss up there as everyone has their likes and such, but you could look at control arm drop brackets and new arms. Some people love others hate them. I'm going with a 3/y link for mine, I personally dont prefer CAD brackets but not because they are bad.
 
At 3.5" you shouldn't need an sye. I have an '00 and ran my 3.5" through hell and back without one, no vibes even doing 70mph,though I did shim the rear axle 2 degrees.use steel shims aluminum will crack. Buy good shocks, Amazon has the best price on 5100's,Adams driveshaft out of Nevada has the best price on DLs, 230$ to my door plus a free t shirt.rough country has the best price on:ubolts, BPE's and sway bar discos( though you may want newer ones far down the road).wheel on bro
 
crazymaci said:
At 3.5" you shouldn't need an sye. I have an '00 and ran my 3.5" through hell and back without one, no vibes even doing 70mph,though I did shim the rear axle 2 degrees.use steel shims aluminum will crack. Buy good shocks, Amazon has the best price on 5100's,Adams driveshaft out of Nevada has the best price on DLs, 230$ to my door plus a free t shirt.rough country has the best price on:ubolts, BPE's and sway bar discos( though you may want newer ones far down the road).wheel on bro
Click to expand...
I had vibes at 2" of lift with my '00 - It all depends on the Jeep. Benefits of a SYE far outweigh not having one, and definitely get steel shims. I did not use BPE's either, just go tteh Bilsteins listed for my lift height.
Petemech said:
Thanks for the responses. I guess I'll probably go ahead and start with ome spring packs, I haven't read any thing negative any where about them. That acos system looks bad ass and is deffinetely an option if I can afford it. One question what springs would you recommend with that because I see minimum lift using the acos set up is 1.5". I guess using a 2" spring would put me at 3.5", I guess an extra half inch front and rear wouldn't be a huge difference.

Also what SYE and driveshaft would you recommend. I'm working on a budget but don't want to go about things wrong. I plan on keeping this thing indefinitely. And if I do a SYE and driveshaft is in necessary to do a Tcase drop?
Do NOT get a Rugged Ridge SYE kit - I went that route and it took a full month to get it to stop leaking (still does actually...) but their customer service was amazing! I can't praise them enough on that part. The horrible seals and casting defects though...
I also got a front drive shaft from another XJ and had it rebuilt to install. No issues at all, and Now I have two matching shafts that I can interchange if I need to.
Carbonxj, your setup and usage seems to match my needs perfect. Its going to be my daily but I need it to get me in and out of the woods for hunting, camping, fishing etc.
I'd post up a pic for you but I'm already at work and the govt computers are insane on restrictions, so can't access my picture storage. It works very, very well for driving around daily, and it flat out soaks up bumps on the interstate drives.
Click to expand...
 
Found one on my phone! 4" and 30s in this photo.

42d0ccbbc6b0e9c810da45c5bb6a770e.jpg


Sent using Tapatalk
 
Smokeyyank, I think your right about the acos system. I got blinded by the cool factor. After doing the math on on suspension parts that money is probably better off spent on an SYE. I'm guessing this is the one your talking about.http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/18676-60.html

I forgot about control arms. I know jks makes some nice stuff but with every thing else I need to do to this thing that might tie up to much of my budget. Are there any less expensive alternatives that would get me down the road at least two years or so to where I can upgrade to something nicer? I know people have mixed feelings about rusty's but their adjustable control arms are like half the price. Like i said im not looking to rock crawl or run t baja 1000, just daily trail rig.

Carbonxj, that thing sits nice! How are the 30" tires do they do every thing you need them to?
 
Petemech said:
Smokeyyank, I think your right about the acos system. I got blinded by the cool factor. After doing the math on on suspension parts that money is probably better off spent on an SYE. I'm guessing this is the one your talking about.http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/18676-60.html

I forgot about control arms. I know jks makes some nice stuff but with every thing else I need to do to this thing that might tie up to much of my budget. Are there any less expensive alternatives that would get me down the road at least two years or so to where I can upgrade to something nicer? I know people have mixed feelings about rusty's but their adjustable control arms are like half the price. Like i said im not looking to rock crawl or run t baja 1000, just daily trail rig.

Carbonxj, that thing sits nice! How are the 30" tires do they do every thing you need them to?
Click to expand...


Yep thats the SYE. Dont go Rustys, pay now or double later. There are better CA out there for close to or a little more. After so many tries you learn its just easier to do it once and right. A less expensive route to "get by". If i was trying to do a true budget build for a great daily and decent "get to an awesome fishin spot in bfe". I would go to a junkyard or by replacements, get the coils and leafs for a little lift (theres a whole sticky about what other vehicle parts fit XJs and what they do). Chop the fenders (search cut and fold before you do it). Get stock or upgraded CA with new bushings (rockauto is awesome for cheap OEM parts). ZJ or a tie rod upgrade w/tre's upgraded or good or OEM track bar, new brakelines, good set of bilstiens, remove rear sway bar, quick disconnects for sway bar in fron, bar pin eliminators, new isolator pads up front for a little lift and new rear shackles for a little lift, add a tranny cooler if auto and toss on some 30s. If the funds where available feshen up a ford 8.8 w/ lsd and discs and dana 30HP add a lsd and possibly 3.73s and you will have a kick ass xj for a decent price.
 
Petemech said:
Smokeyyank, I think your right about the acos system. I got blinded by the cool factor. After doing the math on on suspension parts that money is probably better off spent on an SYE. I'm guessing this is the one your talking about.http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/18676-60.html

I forgot about control arms. I know jks makes some nice stuff but with every thing else I need to do to this thing that might tie up to much of my budget. Are there any less expensive alternatives that would get me down the road at least two years or so to where I can upgrade to something nicer? I know people have mixed feelings about rusty's but their adjustable control arms are like half the price. Like i said im not looking to rock crawl or run t baja 1000, just daily trail rig.
I'm currently running my stock arms at 4" of lift, with no real need to upgrade now. I do have a little bit of wandering, but I also had a worn out steering box that I'm replacing (another thread) that wasn't helping. I'm going with a full set of IRO adj arms to find that sweet spot between pinion and caster angles. You can definitely get away with stock arms for awhile, but I do suggest them as an upgrade. I also picked up a used set of JKS front sway bar disconnects on craigslist for $40, so don't forget to use that as a resource.

Carbonxj, that thing sits nice! How are the 30" tires do they do every thing you need them to? Everything and more, I really like this set up. Great offroad flex and excellent on road manners. These Grabbers are my 3rd set; had two sets of 235s (stock and 2" lift) and got rims and 31" BFG ATs when I went to 4" but hated the BFGs after the Grabbers. Sold the set up and got 30s and TrueTracs for a later install. I did not like the 31s and 3.55 set up - for some reason 30s are just like stock, and 31s suck driving. I will be the test subject and regear to 4.10s and 31s in the future possibly. I have no plans to ever go over 31s in size.
Click to expand...
 
With 31s before I added the 1" spacer to the front. Those are 3.75" backspacing. I just hated the loss of power and mileage.

06b7838d4955971bb1fe8052528e7077.jpg


f8c7585dcd85a936d17122b3adfa5001.jpg


Sent using Tapatalk
 
sweet, guys. Yeah i'm gonna go ahead an get the SYE upfront. Maybe i'll wait on the control arms since i have a few other things i'd like to do that would be nice to have sooner than later.

Carbonxj, after hearing what you have to say maybe i will go with 30x9.5's. I was already looking at the General Grabbers. I don't have experience with their truck tires but i have their car tires on my Jetta TDI and they are great. Very quiet, smooth and last a long time. I think General tires are very good for the $$. My dad always ran BFG's on his CJ5's but his jeeps also never wen't faster than 50mph. I also was looking at the IRO control arms. The fact that they have a full set for under $400 is very enticing, maybe convince the wife to get them for me for xmas haha.

Thanks again every one for the replys, you've all been more than helpful.
 
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