Stroker + AW4 = Stuck Engine?

I don't post much... I can find 10x answers via search. This has me stumped.

1. 1989 MJ
2. 89 Renix 4.6 Stroker
3. 94? AW4 Auto (swapped from ax-15)
4. NP 231

Problem: When the Tranny was bolted up tight, and the engine was installed, I could not get the engine to turn over.

I had the 89 all together with a rebuilt ax-15. 25K miles and no issues. I got an aw4 from the local yard - think it is a 94. It assembled OK... first time it did not seem to seat correctly, so I undid the bolts pulled it apart and put it back together. All seamed fine. Rotated the engine by hand with the plug in (HARD) to tighten the torque converter bolts. Before you ask... I removed the pilot bearing from the manual... no problem.

I put the engine and tranny in the truck without issue and started to reassemble. When it came time to retime the motor, I could not get the engine to turn over. Tried the 3/4 bolt on the crank, then the starter to see it it was caught. No dice.

Out of curiosity, I loosened the 3 of the 4 main bolts that hold the 2 together. There is a jack under the split, but it IS open about 1/8" at the bottom. 3/4" on the crank and I can spin over the motor.

I'm hesitant to retighten the bolts to the engine until I know what is going on.

Anyone have this issue before? Using the same dust shield as the ax-15 - is there a thickness difference perhaps???

Any help is appreciated.

There were variances in the output shafts of the AW4. is your tcase is compatible with that output shaft?
Also you need a flexplate from a renix aw4.
and while you're in there ensure your torque converter is fully seated.

Make sure the torque converter is fully seated into the front pump of the trany. Spin it as you seat it, it should clunk in two times as you spin it.

correct flex plate? removed the manual flywheel? TC lined up properly?

Dang you guys are fast!

I will recheck seating the torque converter... I think that was the issue the first time.

I bought a used flexplate from an 87 (ebay) it matched the CPS gaps on the flywheel, but I can't validate thickness, perhaps it is off.

I have checked the AW4 output shaft to my TC... should work 26 spline IIRC on both. right now the TC is out and the transmission is in neutral.

Ahh ok, the output also varied in length. But if the tcase is out I'd be looking at that torque converter first.

should be 23 or 27 spline. renix trucks are 23 spline stock. If you did tighten the trany bolts to the block look carefully at the front pump to make sure you didn't crack it. It would suck to put it all together then have to remove the trany again.

civic50 said:

Make sure the torque converter is fully seated into the front pump of the trany. Spin it as you seat it, it should clunk in two times as you spin it.

Click to expand...

X2.

Solved?

Yes, so with the bolts loose is spins. Mind you, the transmission is not separated, just a bit loose.

I didn't put anything between the bell housing the engine to separate the two, and one bolt was never loosened. (1:00 position)

after the motor was able to be spun, I finger tightened the bolts back. Still spinning.
I then tightened the bolts to speck. Still spinning.

My guess is that spinning the motor over this last round has allowed the torque converter to seat properly, whereas it may not have been seating completely before?

Unknown. Don't know if the pump is damaged. Will wait to find out... then I can buy a tranny jack to do the job!

Thank you all!

Brad

Good luck, hopefully you're good to go.

I was going to say the TC is probably not seated. id be sketched out myself , the TC should be right up against the pump, if you can get a finger in there, its not seated. The 2 slots in the TC have to slide into two tangs inside the oil pump. you still may or may not be seated but hopefully you are. I had to work at it with the trans up on the jack, backed off the motor, to finally get the TC to seat.

You did lube the engine real good during assembly?
Did you prime the engine with a drill?

The cps isn't mounted so far in that it is holding the flex plate?

As others have said make sure you have the converter in properly, I know in some cases it requires a few spins by hand to get it properly seated in the trans, if not then you could break the tq converter.

I will keep you posted as to the outcome, just so that if someone searches it might show up.

Engine was running well prior. It has been primed well - Screwdriver, socket, drill method for about 5 min. Everything was assembled with lube when it was built the first time. Re-timed it yesteday...

Next steps radiator, transcooler, vac lines... and fire it up! Maybe today.

Just a note for the future. When installing a transmission, ANY transmission. You should never use the bolts to pull the bellhousing in. Not only can you break the tabs off the bell, but if you cant get the 2 to mate up flush without bolts then something is wrong with the install.