so today after a wheeling trip i turned off my jeep in the parking lot waiting for people. ended up not being able to turn it on in park, neutral, or any gear. waite a bit and tried having the Tcase in neutral and got it started. drove home fine then got to a point where it felt sluggish and then randomly it would die and rpms would jump around. it would also downshift, upshift, lock overdrive and act like it was in neutral while i was in Drive. could this all happen from a failing NSS? any thoughts?
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shifting problems/ 89 xj
- Thread starter glitchinq
- Start date
8Mud
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Central Germany
When it tries to stall when you let your foot off the gas in many cases it is the IAC or the EGR. Also possible to be a sensor issue or even a spark issue. Could also be your torque converter isn't unlocking.
As far as the tranny acting up I really have no idea? I usually pull the inline fuse on the TCU harness up under the glove box and see how it shifts manually. This is likely to tell you if it is a mechanical or an electronics issue.
A little vague in your description of the symptoms. It wouldn't crank or it wouldn't start?
As far as the tranny acting up I really have no idea? I usually pull the inline fuse on the TCU harness up under the glove box and see how it shifts manually. This is likely to tell you if it is a mechanical or an electronics issue.
A little vague in your description of the symptoms. It wouldn't crank or it wouldn't start?
old_man
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Loveland, Colorado
Stupid question...you did check the fluid level, right?
Green Mesa XJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Pensacola, FL
I would do the manual test as 8Mud described. That will tell you if its electronics failing or the transmission itself.
My guess is it's electrical in nature. If enough water got splash around maybe that caused these problems.
I can't think of a good reason putting the tcase in natural would help it start.
On a slightly newer Cherokee, had similar complaints from family about the transmission having no power, how they described it because the engine sounded fine and would rev freely out of gear.
I replaced the tps and brake light switch, 91 up that switch will also lock and unlock the torque converter no idea if it's the same for the 89.
But the only factor I don't know about when mine failed was the windshield was leaking back then and there was a hell-a-rainstorm system that when through the night before, maybe that caused all the problems and the parts I changed didn't fix it, maybe the jeep dried out by the time I got up there to fix it.
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My guess is it's electrical in nature. If enough water got splash around maybe that caused these problems.
I can't think of a good reason putting the tcase in natural would help it start.
On a slightly newer Cherokee, had similar complaints from family about the transmission having no power, how they described it because the engine sounded fine and would rev freely out of gear.
I replaced the tps and brake light switch, 91 up that switch will also lock and unlock the torque converter no idea if it's the same for the 89.
But the only factor I don't know about when mine failed was the windshield was leaking back then and there was a hell-a-rainstorm system that when through the night before, maybe that caused all the problems and the parts I changed didn't fix it, maybe the jeep dried out by the time I got up there to fix it.
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- Location
- MilkyWay Galaxy
Because it is a Renix and because you had a starting problem first, I would look at the battery connections, all the ground wire contacts should be cleaned and refreshed, the ignition switch for starters. Also check the wiring to the O2 sensor to see if got damaged wheeling and grounded out part time and the NSS and its wiring just for starters.
- Location
- MilkyWay Galaxy
That problem will either be the battery, battery cable contacts, starter solenoid on the starter, ignition switch, NSS or the small rectangular old style relay near the battery with a large red wire from it to the + post on the battery, also has a bunch of output wires with fuse links on the output of the relay. Could be any of these, or several going down hill.
Start with the battery and the cables and contacts first, then the ignition switch and then the relay near the battery, as those could cause all the reported issues especially the no crank-sometimes and the trying to die sometimes issues.
still having my shifting issue. that is the main thing with the post.
although this gives me a better reason to ax15 swap
- Location
- MilkyWay Galaxy
still having my shifting issue. that is the main thing with the post.
I did not mention anything about the AW4 Transmission having anything to do with the problem.
"Start with the battery and the cables and contacts first, then the ignition switch and then the relay near the battery, as those could cause all the reported issues especially the no crank-sometimes and the trying to die sometimes issues." and I might add the trying to die issue can cause the transmission to shift oddly and start a feedback loop that makes it feel like a transmission issue when it could just be bad battery contacts, or....the list I made above.
regardless. all your help is greatly appreciated
tomorrow i will begin going through and checking things and see whats going on with the electricals.Also as of today my battery is staying at 10V or less. i fear my alternator is going out from all the water and mud yesterday but i drove around for quite awhile and my jeep wouldnt die out from having not enough juice. i thought it was die out quicker than how long i was driving around for so i started thinking it was staying running from the alternator? not too sure
Green Mesa XJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Pensacola, FL
10v at the dash gauge or a multimeter ?
At 10v I'm not sure it would start.
My last experience with a car with a bad battery was that completely dead holding no charge it'd run, ok until running a energy hog like blower motor or auxiliary cooling fan. Then it'd die.
Are the renix Alts ecu controlled like the 91 up?
My old jeep with gm motor and accessories (including gm alt) I'd clean up the plugs and terminals to get it charging again.
Btw my 85s gauge has never been accurate it'll read a few lower that a tester shows it. Every cluster I've tried was the same.
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At 10v I'm not sure it would start.
My last experience with a car with a bad battery was that completely dead holding no charge it'd run, ok until running a energy hog like blower motor or auxiliary cooling fan. Then it'd die.
Are the renix Alts ecu controlled like the 91 up?
My old jeep with gm motor and accessories (including gm alt) I'd clean up the plugs and terminals to get it charging again.
Btw my 85s gauge has never been accurate it'll read a few lower that a tester shows it. Every cluster I've tried was the same.
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like 10v at the meter in the jeep and right now its at 9.40v on a meter. im still pretty rustled about the trans issue too but this just adds to the frustration
Green Mesa XJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Pensacola, FL
May be the same source for both issues. Seems strange to have these failures all at once.
10v running?
If so its either the alt or whatever serves as voltage regulator, possibly wiring/ electronics in between.
I may have missed it, did you do the manual shift test?
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10v running?
If so its either the alt or whatever serves as voltage regulator, possibly wiring/ electronics in between.
I may have missed it, did you do the manual shift test?
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Green Mesa XJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Pensacola, FL
Looked it up you should have a gm alternator, CS-130 , internally regulated. Should be plentiful if you have to replace it.
But being renix grounds are a big part of the issues they experience and can affect the alt output.
I think if you follow the advice you getting from the renix guys you'll be on the right track.
I'm kind of thinking you fix one problem you'll fix the other or be closer to the solution.
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But being renix grounds are a big part of the issues they experience and can affect the alt output.
I think if you follow the advice you getting from the renix guys you'll be on the right track.
I'm kind of thinking you fix one problem you'll fix the other or be closer to the solution.
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- Location
- MilkyWay Galaxy
The Renix alternator has the Voltage regulator in the Alternator.
Renix must have a minimum of 10 volts at the battery posts while cranking to start. The ECU will not let it start at a lower voltage (but it will crank). The Renix dash gauges are always way off regarding absolute voltages, but they be useful as a relative reference. I watch the dash cranking voltage, the non cranking voltage and the running voltage. If the running voltage is below the non cranking, non running voltage the battery is being discharged and drained. Headlights will be very dim with a dying alternator.
Renix must have a minimum of 10 volts at the battery posts while cranking to start. The ECU will not let it start at a lower voltage (but it will crank). The Renix dash gauges are always way off regarding absolute voltages, but they be useful as a relative reference. I watch the dash cranking voltage, the non cranking voltage and the running voltage. If the running voltage is below the non cranking, non running voltage the battery is being discharged and drained. Headlights will be very dim with a dying alternator.
- Location
- MilkyWay Galaxy
Jeep alternators hate muddy water and often die from the exposure, ask 8mud.
"Also as of today my battery is staying at 10V or less. i fear my alternator is going out from all the water and mud yesterday"
Test the battery voltage at the posts while the engine is running, if it is 13.5 V or higher the battery is toast. If it is lower, then the alternator is going out or has died depending on how low the running voltage is. I would charge the battery up 12.7 Volts, then start it and see if the post to voltage is at least 13.7. If the battery does not charge up with a battery charger it is dead. If it charges and then the voltage drops or is below 13.7 Volts while running with a fresh charge on the battery getting up to 12.7 Volts, the alternator is bad.
Both could be fried, or one fried and the other almost fried.
"Also as of today my battery is staying at 10V or less. i fear my alternator is going out from all the water and mud yesterday"
Test the battery voltage at the posts while the engine is running, if it is 13.5 V or higher the battery is toast. If it is lower, then the alternator is going out or has died depending on how low the running voltage is. I would charge the battery up 12.7 Volts, then start it and see if the post to voltage is at least 13.7. If the battery does not charge up with a battery charger it is dead. If it charges and then the voltage drops or is below 13.7 Volts while running with a fresh charge on the battery getting up to 12.7 Volts, the alternator is bad.
Both could be fried, or one fried and the other almost fried.
- Location
- MilkyWay Galaxy
Can't say enough about cleaning the clamps and battery post as I have a 6 month old battery, leak acid vapors under the clamp from a bad post seal, and corrode the clamp from the bottom side up until the contact was bad and still look fine and new from the top side.
i did shift manually and it worked. but it was also random when it would mess up just leaving in in drive. sometimes it shifts normally sometimes it doesnt
but yes id assume it was 10v running. the gauge in the jeep read about that and when i shut it off and checked with a multi meter it was at 9.40volts. im going to check the alt tomorrow and try using a different battery/cleaning wires/checking grounds.
- Location
- MilkyWay Galaxy
The test you ran shifting manually must be done with the power fuse to the TCU computer pulled to get a real manual only test. You got enough of a manual test with the 1 and 1-2 shift for now, and the low battery voltage is sure to screw with the TCU computer and Transmission shifting for me to say this is not a transmission problem.
Leaving it in drive it is still shifting electrically under the TCU computer control and the shift solenoids and the TCU computer have critical minimal voltages needed to work right (unless you pull the TCU power fuse)
Let us know how the battery-alternator-clamps service-replacement works out and good luck
Leaving it in drive it is still shifting electrically under the TCU computer control and the shift solenoids and the TCU computer have critical minimal voltages needed to work right (unless you pull the TCU power fuse)
Let us know how the battery-alternator-clamps service-replacement works out and good luck
