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ARB bumper, which winch

D

djmones

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Ireland
Newbie here
Now since that's out of the way. I looked up 10 pages and a boolean search and didn't see one mentioned so here we go.

ARB brushguard winch bumper, between the choice of RuggedRidge Synthetic and Smittybilt (the only ones available here for a decent price).

1. Is anyone running one of those
2. Any particular install issues such as does it fit, any custom fab work, etc

I just don't want to purchase the wrong one and have it not fit.

P.S. Please no Warn responses as I can't afford one, thanks, the aforementioned brands are the only ones available in our area that we have warranty repair shops for.
:geek:

Micheal from Ireland
 
Welcome. Good luck with your upgrade.
 
I'm no specific help, as I have a Warn M8000, but I don't see why any standard winch with a remote solenoid box wouldn't work.

Note that you do have to clock the case on the Warn to reach the engage/free spool lever, so I would make sure you can do that with the Smittybilt/RuggedRidge.
 
First of all: Welcome.

Secondly, ARB and Warn are pretty buddy-buddy and the ARB bars tend to be designed around Warn winches.

That being said, you should be able to find the dimensions for the Warn M-series winch online. Just check to make sure that the mounting hole locations and the overall dimensions are the same. They *should* be fairly close but it does not hurt to check.

A couple of things to note: most winches mount with the feet down; the ARB bullbar for the XJ requires the winch to be mounted with the feet FORWARD. ie. the winch is essentially laying on what would normally be its backside. This is why the clutch housing needs to be clocked (as previous posters have indicated).

You will need a Warn roller fairlead. I tried a Smittybilt and it did not fit. The bracket on the front of the bar helps to hold the fairlead in place. This is a result of the orientation of the winch. 2 of the 4 bolts will bolt through the front of the bar into the square nuts of the winch. The other 2 have to pass through the side plate of the fairlead in order to get through to the square nuts of the winch. Yes, this means that you will need to drill holes through the fairlead "frame". You will also have to replace the pins of the side-rollers on the fairlead with longer grade 8 bolts. These pass through the bracket and then through the fairlead where the side pins would normally be.

I have an M9000 and it is pretty tight in there particularly laterally. Which is why I suggest ensuring that the outside dims of whatever winch you decide on do not exceed those of the Warn M-series.
 
Last edited:
cdn_xj said:
First of all: Welcome.

Secondly, ARB and Warn are pretty buddy-buddy and the ARB bars tend to be designed around Warn winches.

That being said, you should be able to find the dimensions for the Warn M-series winch online. Just check to make sure that the mounting hole locations and the overall dimensions are the same. They *should* be fairly close but it does not hurt to check.

A couple of things to note: most winches mount with the feet down; the ARB bullbar for the XJ requires the winch to be mounted with the feet FORWARD. ie. the winch is essentially laying on what would normally be its backside. This is why the clutch housing needs to be clocked (as previous posters have indicated).



You will need a Warn roller fairlead. I tried a Smittybilt and it did not fit. The bracket on the front of the bar helps to hold the fairlead in place. This is a result of the orientation of the winch. 2 of the 4 bolts will bolt through the front of the bar into the square nuts of the winch. The other 2 have to pass through the side plate of the fairlead in order to get through to the square nuts of the winch. Yes, this means that you will need to drill holes through the fairlead "frame". You will also have to replace the pins of the side-rollers on the fairlead with longer grade 8 bolts. These pass through the bracket and then through the fairlead where the side pins would normally be.

I have an M9000 and it is pretty tight in there particularly laterally. Which is why I suggest ensuring that the outside dims of whatever winch you decide on do not exceed those of the Warn M-series.
Click to expand...

Thanks for that detail. If I am using a synthetic winch would I not be able to use a roller fairlead as those are made for steel cable and HAWSE is used for synthetic?

Cheers, Michael
 
correct. Roller fairleads eat synthetic line.

There are superwinch models that will allow feet forward mounting, and i've been happy with my EP9k.

so that's another option.
 
87manche said:
correct. Roller fairleads eat synthetic line.

There are superwinch models that will allow feet forward mounting, and i've been happy with my EP9k.

so that's another option.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I can get Superwinch here but in Sterling they boost the price so much its pricey. I found a Rugged Ridge Spartacus 8500 Synthetic for $499.00 on special offer through Oconoee offroad Stateside so very reasonable compared to what a Warn costs here in the EU.

Our local Jeep group says the no trouble with a HAWSE with the ARB although the opening is designed for a Roller Fairlead but I know you can't use rollers with rope.
 
djmones said:
Thanks for that detail. If I am using a synthetic winch would I not be able to use a roller fairlead as those are made for steel cable and HAWSE is used for synthetic?

Cheers, Michael
Click to expand...

If you are using synthetic line then disregard all the detail about the roller fairlead. Hawse will bolt up fine.
 
you can use a roller just fine with a synthetic, provided it's not scarred up from previous use with a cable it makes no difference.

they also make Hawse fairleads for steel cables as well.
 
I agree with the Rock! I have 3 winches. Two I've owned since 1990 only one has a Hawse! I prefer the roller and see what the Hawse does to cables! The roller to me will cause less wear especially at any angle other than straight in! That's my 2 cents, I mean 3 cents one for each winch!
 
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