• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Suggestions to do while motor is out

R

richamor

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Piedmont SC
1989 XJ. So the motor is out for rebuild. Will be replacing the rad, WP, mounts, thermostat and housing converting to open cooling system. Will be checking and replacing all hoses that look bad. Have a Mopar CPS to go in. Probably replace the knock sensor as well.

The jeep ran great until the oil pump failed and I chalked it up to a bad sending unit. I will also be adding a mechanical oil pressure gauge! Already has new upgraded injectors.

I didn't pull the tranny so not much going on there. Gonna add Boostworks shift linkage and the 4X4 Posi-Lok.

This is pretty much a DD vehicle. No lift or big tires planned since offroading really ain't in the future. I just want a dependable 4X4 and I really like this Cherokee.

Thanks for the suggestions!!
 
My 2c.
Clean everything within the engine bay, (metal surfaces) i.e., hood, fenders, firewall, and coat with a protective layer of some sort, i.e., some spray like wd-40, etc., or paint; base coat, matching color coat, clear coat.

Check all electrical connections, clean, and protect as necessary. Some notice a lot of corrosion underneath the 'relay-chassis', as well as various ends of wiring, etc.

You might want to check to see if the flange to the blower motor mount is factory bent which can make getting a socket on one of the screw caps most difficult to remove, in which case make whatever modification necessary to get it out should you ever need to do so.

Again, with the engine out most everything you see needs to be inspected, cleaned if needed, or replaced, and it is so much easier to do these things altogether when the engine is out of the way, especially when the hood is removed.

*My thinking is fuzzy at the moment, lol, but what is the WP?
**What kind of transmission do you have in there?
Best wishes.
 
This is a great idea! Thanks!!

"A little trick for increasing the output of your CPS is to drill out the upper mounting hole to 3/8″ from the stock 5/16″, or slot it so the CPS bracket rests on the bell housing when pushed down. Then, when mounting it, hold the CPS down as close to the flywheel as you can while tightening the bolts."
 
Another penny...
WP!?! Laughing out loud now.., thought it was something related to the engine bay. Tired. Anyway I ascertain that you are doing the rebuild, although not specifically stated. Partial, or total?

Are you going to send out to have your engine/crank shaft line-bored?

I suppose you are installing an oil pump, and hence while you are there; install a new rear main seal, plasti-gauge your rod bearings, and get the correct bearing sizes. I am no expert, but simple things like aforementioned will go towards your rebuild to run smooth, cooler, and remove RMS future issues. IF you are going for a total rebuild, then of course you have much more work, i.e; proper de-glazing of cylinders, cleaned-up pistons, replacement rod/piston wrist-pins, head restoration, etc.

You have an Abhor-press for piston/rod wrist-pin removal/installation? Not too tricky, but better sent out, imho.

Are you going to send out your head for over-haul?

If your head is aluminum, which it is not, you could do your head yourself with a sheet of glass, a file, some valve seat compound, etc., but an iron head is better left to a professional service, imho, as they can resurface it better should it be warped slightly. However, that sheet of glass, and WD-40 can be still be used to see if that contracted service is actually needed by your checking out how true your mating surface actually is. If true, then you could resurface your valve seats yourself, insuring that your new valves mate properly.., lots of angles. Again, being no expert, those issues are better left to them. When I've done it, it is by far more tedious handiwork to do it properly. Better to have an expert do it with all of their tooling, knowledge, etc., unless you are far removed from such services. Head surfacing is one charge, valve seat surfacing is another, polishing ports, another, and cleaning of the fluid channels another, etc. Your choice.

Seems most are happy with FEL-PRO gasket sets.

Suggest you use a wheeling four-point engine stand, as the three-point type can be hazardous should you have to move it around much, especially with kids, visitors, or drunks around.

You might consider using high temp paints to paint your engine/head, etc., with additional protective clear coats in order to help you easily see future leaks of any kind. Dirty exterior engines with mushy oil/mud/water surfaces, etc., make finding said leaks more difficult.

Have fun!
 
If you've ever thought about replacing your steering box now's the time to do it.
You already mentioned upper control arm bushings, but might as well do the lowers as well. They are easier to replace when you can get your whole body in the engine bay.
 
shanesaw said:
If you've ever thought about replacing your steering box now's the time to do it.
Click to expand...

X2 I did mine @ the same time and I'm so happy I did.
 
coolant temp sensor
 
While you have everything disconnected, I would flush the heater core and radiator.

I would take a scrub brush and some Zud cleanser and scrub down the whole engine bay real good, then get a spray can of clear coat at Autozone and coat everything.

Check for rust around the battery first.
 
xcm said:
These people be crazy.... Never replace shit just to replace it.... The replacement parts arent nearly as good as the stock ones.

Also, waterpump? thats a 30 minute job with the engine installed....

::facepalm::
Click to expand...

Mine WAS bad. And people don't realize the steering gear can be bad without leaking. If there's an excessive amount of play in the gear..............it's no good! If the op as enough miles on the truck to warrant an overhaul, it is safe to suggest replacing it while the engine is out and acess is ideal.

And yes, I'm crazy. But my sanity isn't the subject here ;)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

V
High temp woes
2
Replies
21
Views
414
Vitzaa
V
N
New Engine is Hard to Start
Replies
0
Views
34
NGThomas
N
M
Replace A/C core at the same time as heater core?
Replies
4
Views
2K
maxbraketorque
M
L
Manual to Auto transmission swap
Replies
9
Views
205
lvcanyoneer1
L
R
1992 XJ AW4 doesn't want to shift
2
Replies
20
Views
3K
Rob Mayercik
R
Back
Top