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98 xj stalled while driving, won't start

98xjstealth

NAXJA Forum User
Location
North Jersey
Hey guys! New member! Gotta day I love this forum and already learned a ton from it.
Vehicle- 98 jeep xj , 3 inch lift, 220k on body 90k on engine and trans.
Problem- while driving the other day the truck was running great, when all of a sudden it just died and wouldn't start back up. Got it towed home ($275 Nj turnpike) and started trouble shooting. I could always here my fuel pump hum for a few seconds when key is turned to ON position, but now nothing. Swapped the relays and nothing, sprayed starter fluid in throttle body and it started but immediately stalls. So I figure it's the pump. Replaced the whole unit today with a Bosch unit from Napa, and still won't start. Plug in my code reader and now I'm getting a code 1694. Could it be the CPS? even though it'll start with starter fluid? Sorry for the long post. Any help is appreciated!
 
Thanks for the reply. Do you recall which fuse? Also, I can hear the pump priming, but no pressure. Tomorrow I'm gunna blow some air through the line and see if its blocked
 
Fix the P1694. The CPS is certainly suspect. Do the voltage and gas gauge display correctly ?

P1694 Fault In Companion Module. No CCD/J1850 bus messages received at the power train control module (PCM) from the AisinWarner Transmission Control Module (TCM).

P1694 will set if no CCd bus messages are received from PCM for 20 seconds or invalid messages are received for 20 seconds.

Possible Causes
-Faulty TCM
-CCD Bus (-) circuit open between PCM and TCM.
-CCD Bus (+) circuit open between PCM and TCM.
-Transmission CCD bus wiring damaged.

(Wiring issues or a faulty TCM should be the first suspects)

When the CPS short circuits, the engine computer (PCM) shuts down to prevent damage to itself. As a result, there is no communication (P1694).

Disconnect the crankshaft position sensor (CPS) and then put the ignition key in the ON position. If the instrument cluster voltage and fuel gauges start to work once the CPS is disconnected, then you know the CPS or CPS wires are shorted and is the root cause of the codes. You can verify this by testing the CPS and checking continuity and voltage on the CPS wires.
 
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Thank for the reply!
Update- installed new CPS today, still nothing. Cleaned out fuel line, checked injector wiring , all appeared good, no bare wires, checked distributor cap and rotor, wires, cleaned cam sensor, plugs look good. Still Nothing. But still starts with starter fluid. I'm beginning to suspect the injectors aren't firing which would indicate a bad ecm correct? I'm gunna get some node lights to test them before I bite the bullet for a new ecm. Sad part is, I'm not even mad I'm throwing new parts at it. Fuel pump was original with 220k on it. And the CPS was the original from the donor jeep with 90k on it.. Just makes spending some $$ on the jeep justifiable to the Mrs lol.
 
Update.
Installed new cam sensor , new battery and still no start. No pressure at fuel rail. I'll crank it, then push in the valve and I get air pressure.. Any help is appreciated
 
Did you install genuine Jeep sensors, or cheap sensors with a "Lifetime Warranty" ? Most auto parts stores sell cheap crappy Chinese "Lifetime Warranty" parts that are often out of specification, or even failed, right out of the box. Many times they have a short service life before they fail. Always buy top quality replacement parts and genuine Jeep sensors. Numerous threads detail long and frustrating searches for a "problem" that ended up being cured with genuine Jeep repair parts.

Cheap parts are cheap for a reason.

Done all the basics, inspect/test every fuse, test the OBD sensors, cleaned and snugged all the grounds, inspected the underside of the under-hood PDC fuse box for loose relay contacts ?

If you remove the fuel pump relay and jump the contacts will the fuel pump run and the engine start ?
 
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All parts were bought from Napa, I stay away from autozone and advanced auto. Checked all fuses, cleaned all grounds, Bosch fuel sending unit. I haven't pulled and checked the PDC so I'll put that on the list. Also pulled and cleaned all plugs, inspected plug wires, cleaned cap and rotor. Fuel pump runs for exactly 2 seconds when I turn the key. How do I jump the relay? Also I pulled the ASD relay. The aux fan kicked on when I went to reinstall it. Then plugged my code reader in and got code P1388 which is for the ASD correct? Plugged in a different relay, cleared the code and still no start.. I've never came across this problem in any other vehicle I've owned and worked on. I'm also gunna pull the ecm and check the circuit board for anything out of the ordinary. Am I on the right track here? I appreciate all the help. This is my first jeep, I love it, I've done alot of work restoring it and fixing the previous owners idiotic mistakes lol
 
Figured out how to jump the relay.. Disconnected the fuel line at the rail, put it in a bottle and jumped the relay. I hear the pump running but No fuel, line is bone dry. I have a quarter of a tank.
 
Update

Disconnected fuel line from tank connector. Put line in bottle, turned key to prime. I heard the pump kick on, no fuel in bottle. Did I buy a bad pump? I'm about to drop the tank again and pull it out to return it for another.
 
Did your new pump come with a new fuel pressure regulator as well? If new there's a slight possibility that the new FPR is faulty and not allowing fuel through the check valve but it would be pretty slim.

If the FPR was new is there a chance something fell into the hole the FPR slides into and is causing a blockage? Weird stuff can happen no matter how careful you are.

If the FPR wasn't new and you reused the old one there is a chance the filter inside was so plugged it is not allowing any fuel to pass through any longer.

There are 3 filters on the fuel pump in our era jeeps...the "sock" on the bottom, the small filter between the bottom of the fuel pump module and the electric pump itself, and the main filter which is actually inside the fuel pressure regulator.

Sorry if this info is redundant or you already know it just wanting to throw .02 cents in!
 
Update.

Pulled the "new" fuel pump and brought it back to NAPA. They gave me a new one no questions asked. Put the new pump in hooked everything back up, disconnected the fuel line at the rail and put it in a bottle. Then I jumped the fuel pump relay and gas came flying out of the line. Hooked the fuel line back up and she started right up!. Drove her about 20 miles without a hicup. A BIG THANK YOU TO EVERYONE WHO TRIED HELPING ME OUT!

Lesson learned
Even though the new parts are shiney, doesn't mean they always work out of the box.
 
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