99 xj - doing oil leaks, need help on parts list.....

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So the good news for me is I have an unmolested 99 XJ with 82k miles. It was a government build with high options, I believe all routine maintenance was done as it is very clean and runs perfect. However it appears no major repairs were ever attempted. So I am kind of relieved there I get first crack at it all, I have 3 common issues.
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1 - oil filter adapter puking oil
2 - oil pan leaking, not terrible but both sides.
3 - rear main dripping at bottom of bellhousing.

so doing all 3 at same time, what parts are highest quality?
I dont want a repeat, its just a daily driver but I have no problem spending money on high quality parts. any tips or other related repairs as I will be in there anyway, like torque converter hub seal? or ????
I want to just get it all over with in 1 shot.

so I need help building my parts shopping list, maybe I'll see some sales ......

Fel pro works fine. I would also consider resealing timing cover, its not much fun with the an on. Doing the timing chain and gears would be up to you, but with the low miles I wouldn't bother. Also, check your valve cover gasket, another common leak point. Theres a few o rings inside the oil filter adapter I would replace as well when you take that apart, however Idk any part numbers, I used some out of a universal o ring assortment.

Starting to go through this myself and this is what I have so far for a list, hopefully someone else can chime in:

Oil Pan Gasket: FEL-PRO 4713224
Valve Cover Gasket: FEL-PRO VS50458R
Rear Main Seal: FEL-PRO BS40612
Front Main: VICTOR REINZ 46134
Oil Filter Adapter Gasket: FEL-PRO 70301
Oil Filter Adapter O-ring: Crown Auto 33002970K
Distributor Mount Gasket: FEL-PRO 70051

I think theres also a gasket/o-ring at the Oil pressure sensor? or switch, or whatever it is thats right next to the distributor.

Everyone says to change the oil filter adapter gasket/o-rings first, as this is usually the main issue. With this, the oil flows down the block, and gets behind the oil pan, and on the front of the bellhousing, looking as if you have a RMS leak. From what I've read, degrease the engine, start with the adapter, watch for leaks. From there you should be able to tell if its coming from above the adapter, or below.

When I resealed my 1997, I used the Fel Pro CS81693 conversion (bottom end) gasket set which will give you everything listed except the valve cover gasket which you can buy separately. The conversion set is about $25-30. It actually contains about 3 styles of front cover and water pump gaskets. CS81693 should be good for your model year. The part number rolls for the new rear main bearing cap/seal design around 2000.

If you are pulling the pan to do the rear main seal, then the most common setback is getting enough clearance to actually remove the pan. You'll need to let the axle droop down and should consider disconnecting sway bar, track bar, and shocks normal. The next most common problem is stripping out threads of the aluminum timing cover. Torque specs are low, 84 and 132 in-lbs IIRC for the smaller/larger bolts. Don't over tighten. You can use dowel pins to set the new oil pan gasket in place and then put the oil pan over it. Don't use sealant where its not required. Four dabs are required where the oil pan gasket bends around the timing cover & bearing cap. Consider using the Mopar anaerobic sealer for the bearing cap and the Mopar gasket sealer that the manual calls for.

Take note that everything that threads directly into the block or head of the 4.0 will be SAE thread (not metric). Everything else is metric. For example, the starter has two bolts, one is metric and one is standard.

great info- keep the tips coming in............

its appreciated

so is the oil pan really this complicated, here is what I see for removal (only!)

REMOVAL
Disconnect negative cable from battery.
Raise the vehicle.
Remove the oil pan drain plug and drain the engine oil.
Disconnect the exhaust pipe at the exhaust manifold.
Disconnect the exhaust hanger at the catalytic converter and lower the pipe.
Remove the starter motor.
Remove the engine flywheel and transmission torque converter housing access cover.
If equipped with an oil level sensor, disconnect the sensor.
Position a jack stand directly under the engine vibration damper.
Place a piece of wood (2 x 2) between the jack stand and the engine vibration damper.
Remove the engine mount through bolts.
Using the jack stand, raise the engine until adequate clearance is obtained to remove the oil pan.
Remove transmission oil cooling lines (if equipped) and oxygen sensor wiring supports that are attached to the oil pan studs.
Remove the oil pan bolts and studs. Carefully slide the oil pan and gasket to the rear. If equipped with an oil level sensor, take care not to damage the sensor.

wyowalsh said:

great info- keep the tips coming in............

its appreciated

so is the oil pan really this complicated, here is what I see for removal (only!)

REMOVAL
Disconnect negative cable from battery.
Raise the vehicle.
Remove the oil pan drain plug and drain the engine oil.
Disconnect the exhaust pipe at the exhaust manifold.
Disconnect the exhaust hanger at the catalytic converter and lower the pipe.
Remove the starter motor.
Remove the engine flywheel and transmission torque converter housing access cover.
If equipped with an oil level sensor, disconnect the sensor.
Position a jack stand directly under the engine vibration damper.
Place a piece of wood (2 x 2) between the jack stand and the engine vibration damper.
Remove the engine mount through bolts.
Using the jack stand, raise the engine until adequate clearance is obtained to remove the oil pan.
Remove transmission oil cooling lines (if equipped) and oxygen sensor wiring supports that are attached to the oil pan studs.
Remove the oil pan bolts and studs. Carefully slide the oil pan and gasket to the rear. If equipped with an oil level sensor, take care not to damage the sensor.

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A large majority of this sounds like it is being done for clearance (to pull the pan). If you follow the instruction above, with drooping the axle by disconnecting sway bar, shocks, etc, then you should not need to touch the exhaust, the starter, the fly wheel cover, or jack anything up. Although, this is also dependent on your lift. 2 different ways to get the job done, but personally, messing with the exhaust (Which we all know has rusted bolts, and will probably end up breaking something), or dealing with engine mounts, and jacking the HB, all sounds like a lot more effort, and potential for something breaking, than with hanging the axle.

In my previous wrangler, I didnt need to do anything other than unbolt the pan, but that is because it had clearance to pull out. I have 5" of lift on my XJ, and I'm pretty sure, I'd need to droop the axle a bit to get it to clear the oil pump, but besides that I don't see any other obstacles.

I changed the rear main seal, pan gasket, timing chain and gasket, basically every gasket on the lower end on my 87 Waggoner with no lift by letting the axle drop as stated above. It was a little tight getting it back in but by no means impossible. It's a pretty straight forward job. Just take your time and be patient. Make sure you do NOT knock the oil pump pickup loose!!

I make a special tool to remove the oil filter adapter on late model XJ's. Depending on shipping they're about 20/25 bux. I only charge for the Torx bit and shipping, I make no profit from these. In fact I lose money when you add steel for the handle and my time for welding/fab.

The tool makes what can be a somewhat frustrating experience, easy as pie... I have three already made. PM me if you are interested.

wyowalsh said:

great info- keep the tips coming in............

its appreciated

so is the oil pan really this complicated, here is what I see for removal (only!)

REMOVAL
Disconnect negative cable from battery. A good idea
Raise the vehicle. You'll need to do this
Remove the oil pan drain plug and drain the engine oil. Uhh - yes...
Disconnect the exhaust pipe at the exhaust manifold. Not necessary
Disconnect the exhaust hanger at the catalytic converter and lower the pipe. Not necessary
Remove the starter motor. I do
Remove the engine flywheel and transmission torque converter housing access cover. I do to clear the lip on the back of the oil pan on mine
If equipped with an oil level sensor, disconnect the sensor. Yes - if you have one
Position a jack stand directly under the engine vibration damper.
Place a piece of wood (2 x 2) between the jack stand and the engine vibration damper. Neither necessary - I have been able to get the pan out without disconnecting the shocks and sway bar, but it does give you a bit of extra clearance when you drop the axle.
Remove the engine mount through bolts. Not necessary
Using the jack stand, raise the engine until adequate clearance is obtained to remove the oil pan. Not necessary
Remove transmission oil cooling lines (if equipped) and oxygen sensor wiring supports that are attached to the oil pan studs. You don't need to remove the tranny lines, just push them out of the way.
Remove the oil pan bolts and studs. Carefully slide the oil pan and gasket to the rear. If equipped with an oil level sensor, take care not to damage the sensor.

Click to expand...

As others have stated, degrease the engine and run it first to see where your leaks really are. 82k seems a bit early to lose a RMS or an oil filter adapter o-ring. I didn't have to mess with the either until well after 100k.

A leaking valve cover gasket will flow to the rear of the engine and down - looking like a RMS leak - same with the oil filter adapter. Get a Fel-Pro Perma Dry valve cover gasket and clean both surfaces well before installing it. I haven't had a leak from my valve cover since I installed one a while back.

Another way to spot the oil filter adapter leak will be oil on the bottom of your filter or an obvious leak around where the adapter seats on the block. There are 3 rings to change on it. I would strongly consider Mudbutt's tool to change the rings on yours - getting the T-60 and a ratchet or breaker bar in there to get it loose is a PITA. I have a '93 that uses a 9/16 hex, so I can get it from below very easily with a hex key without disconnecting the engine mounts and lifting the engine.

If you do decide to dig into it, using dowel rods as mentioned above or 5/16-18 threaded rods like I do has made things much easier when re-installing the pan - especially with the rear lip of the pan gasket being prone to slipping out of position and getting sliced by the rear main bearing cap and causing a nice gusher leak. Take your time on that one so you dont slice the gasket and waste $20. Once again, Perma Dry is your friend.

None of these are too complicated to do, I can do my pan gasket / RMS in a couple of hours, the filter adapter takes me about 20 minutes, and the valve cover gasket took about an hour.

rb211-535 said:

...using dowel rods as mentioned above or 5/16-18 threaded rods like I do has made things much easier when re-installing the pan...

Click to expand...

I used the tie-wraps... Worked very well for me...

Original_MudButt said:

I used the tie-wraps... Worked very well for me...

Click to expand...

Never thought of that - then again, I have a habit of over-thinking things like that - especially after slicing a couple of pan gaskets....:gee: