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Dies at idle, but weird MAP sensor issue.

Calikingcrawler

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Bakersfield, Ca
Backstory....
89 Cherokee with its share of issues. 4.0 limited. Good ol' renix.
Has been my daily driver for 2 1/2 yrs, has always had some issues with slightly rough idle and stutters at 1900-2000 rpms but seems to clear up at 2001 rpms. :looney:

Just yesterday I drove it in the morning and parked it in the street all day. Last night I went to pull it in the driveway and it didn't want to start. I finally got it to start feathering the gas enough to limp it to the driveway. I checked all my vacuum lines thinking maybe that was it. Unplugged let sit and re plugged the cps, shot in the dark, because I have had issues about a year ago that it wouldn't do anything someone told me to unplug and reconnect it and it would start. ( worked that time a year ago )

Now to where I am now. I finally got it to idle smooth at about 750-800 rpms by unplugging the vacuum line to the MAP sensor (won't drive down the road because no power). But dies as soon as you plug in the vacuum line. I tested vacuum it is good, I tested the MAP sensor with my volt meter and it is good. What else could it be?
I have somewhat ruled out CPS because it does run with the vacuum unplugged from the MAP.
Also kinda ruled out the IAC for the same reason.
Please help I have to drive this thing to work on Tuesday!!!!!!!!
I searched all night and have done everything I can think of.
 
Did you make sure that the vac line/connection at TB is clear and not clogged?
I do not like throwing parts at vehicles, but consider swapping/buying a new MAP sensor.
 
I pulled it off and blew thru it. Does have a soft spot in it that may be collapsing but I'm going to replace it. I put a newer map sensor in out of a grand Cherokee. It also tests good. Tested my tps and it showed good. Put my newer cleaner spare iac in. Still did the same. A buddy told me to check the coolant temp switch that sends signal to the pcm. Upon inspection found a burnt and probably grounded out connector. I got a new one and installed it. While doing that I disconnected the battery and did the touch battery positive cable to a ground that everyone says to do. Did it help? I don't know but it fired right up and ran while I bled the air out of the coolant. After about 15-20 minutes it died again. Same stuff happening now. I read that poor fuel pressure or a bad fuel pump can cause similar issues making people miss diagnose it as a bad map sensor. So I went to oriellys and rented a fuel rail pressure tester.
To find out I only have 10 psi to the rail running with the vacuum disconnected from the regulator. Killing the engine and it drops to zero instantly. I am going to clean the rail and check the fuel line and filter tomorrow but before I change the pump, couldn't a bad regulator cause this as well? Constantly bypassing fuel to the tank not allowing fuel pressure to build.
 
Google cruiser54 renix tips and lundhd renix. Good info on testing sensors. For the map sensor out of a GC, I'm not sure if it is the same range as a renix and I would use a renix unit instead. Check your crank position sensor and adjust your tps. Fuel regulators can fail but more the likely it's plugged filters, bad pumps or failed fuel pump resistor.
 
Just checked the resister by bypassing it. Also checked the filter. Pinched the return line too and didn't get anymore pressure. Stayed at 10. So I kinda ruled out the regulator. Only other thing it could be is the pump bypassing. Or just not putting out the pressure.
 
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