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Manifold to Downpipe bolts bent/seized

S

spinaldex

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Oregon City, OR
I have an exhaust leak where the manifold meets the downpipes. I have a 00, so I have two manifolds and two downpipes. On one of them, both bolts are slightly bent, the threads are F'd up, and so I can't tighten or get the nuts off. Any suggestions on how I can cut them off, drill them out, etc since its tight quarters up there? I'm trying to avoid having to remove the manifolds to get in there since that's a serious PITA. If I can get/cut the nut off, then I can pull them out and drop in some grade 8s.
 
I would be really tempted to just put some torque to them and break them right off and replace them. I guess it depends on if they are studs pressed into the manifold or just a bolt/nut though.
 
Looking at this pic of a stock manifold for a 2000 on ebay it looks like they are going to be just a through bolt and a nut and not studs. If that's the case Id do just what iwannadie said and just get a socket on them and turn them till they snap and then replace them. Might have to get creative in figuring out how to punch out what's left of the bolt because they will probably be slightly rusted in place.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/00-01-Jeep-...XJ5-/361365644308?hash=item5423122414&vxp=mtr
 
They are bolts, not studs. I broke one of them off awhile ago and replaced it with a regular bolt. I mean, I ****** cranked on the other one and couldn't get it to budge. I guess I'll try to do it again. Maybe I'll toss some PB Blaster on there tonight and let it sit overnight as well.
 
I pretty sure they're just bolts with a captured nut. The last newer model xj I worked on had that. Yours may be different. If they are captured nuts you can just overtorque and break them using a impact, then replace the bolt and nut
 
IIRC a dremel will fit up there with a fiber reinforced cutoff disc. Or maybe one of their multimax tools with a carbide blade, I love mine for situations like this. Expensive consumables but sometimes it is the only tool for the job.

Use brass replacement hardware so it doesn't seize, or grade 2, 3, or 5 so it breaks easily when it does seize. Grade 8 will make you unhappy.
 
The old nuts on my 88 were frozen solid, PB Blaster did nothing. Finally I heated them red-hot with a propane torch and snapped the bolts off easily with a 2' breaker and some extensions.

The photos thanasi posted does make it look like a through bolt, but mine were splined studs. Either way you might be able to press out the snapped-off portions with something like a tie-rod puller. I've never used an air-chisel but if you have access to one you could try that. I'd be real wary of exerting too much force on the manifolds for fear of snapping off the bolts in the head. My manifolds were coming off anyway so I waited and beat out the old studs with a sledge and a punch.
 
Yeah, 99 and earlier use splined studs. Dorman makes replacements but I usually just through bolt it.

00 and up have the newer cast manifolds that use through bolts from the factory like they should have in the first place.
 
I've got a Dremel (well, the HF wannabe). I'll get more of those reinforced disks (the Dremel ones, the HF ones are garbage) and see if I can just cut it off. Great idea!

Also, I appreciate the suggestion of using lower grade bolts so it'll be easier to break off next time. Awesome idea!

Is there a donut (gasket) on these? If I'm going to replace the bolts I might as well see if I can pull it down far enough to get new donuts on there and seal it up better.
 
There is a donut. It's like 8-15 bucks at the parts store or on rockauto.

Living in the rust belt I am used to using logic like that. If it's gonna seize, might as well make my life easy right? :gee:
 
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