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Difference Between Mopar HD and non-HD Radiators is now Known

PaulJ

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Lynnwood, WA
It seems like the question is often asked about how the Mopar HD radiator is different than the standard one, but the question never seems to be answered. I just bought the Mopar HD radiator and the difference is that the core is 1-5/8 inches thick versus 1 inch for the standard radiator. Don't get wrapped up about it being a 1-core radiator.
 
I dont rock a mopar radiator (i run a csf), but the differance between those radiators may be the little bit required to run a grand cherokee fan clutch.
 
For an auto tranny, the standard duty P/N is 52079682AB. The heavy duty version is P/N 52080104AC. I've had several CSF 3-core radiators on previous XJs and they don't last more than a few years and never seemed to cool any better than the standard duty Mopar radiators.
 
Isn't the 52080104AC HD an aluminum core radiator?

There is a Mopar HD 5191929AA radiator for approx. ~$200.00 less, appears to be copper / brass.

Both are listed for same vehicle, year and engine as - 101.0" Wheelbase; 4 door; Automatic trans.; W/ ENGINE COOLING - HEAVY DUTY
 
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I don't believe anyone is producing a copper/brass radiator anymore. Aluminum is stronger, thinner and is much more efficient at heat transfer.

That said... Most people report the CSF radiators are junk. Cheap alloy.
 
Copper / Brass were used for many years as they were easy to repair. There use to be more radiator repair shops. You brought either your car or the radiator in. The repair shop shop would then pressure test the radiator for leaks. If the core was in bad shape it was remove and either repaired or replace.

In older vehicles I use to bring my radiator and sometimes the car in and usually was out of shop in under 30 mins. for under 30 dollars with a new or repaired core.

I know aluminum radiators cool better, and now cater to a mass market. I think most modern vehicles use aluminum core radiators. However there are a lot of cheap aluminum radiators that I wouldn't trust in an off-road and high heat environment. Though they're trying to improve them from failure, plastic and glues are used where they have a tendency to split open. Though the shops have adapted, repairs can become more difficult and expensive. Some cheaper aluminum rads it's often less expensive to replace the radiator rather try to repair them.

OEM radiators are of a better quality, than most aftermarkets. However if I were looking at spending over $300.00 for an aluminum radiator, I would also consider an all aluminum such as a Griffin.

Perhaps they're using an aluminum core now for this OE. I've seen descriptions that show it as copper/brass. Back when XJ's were being sold new, I believe most OE HD's used an aluminum core.

This OE is listed ($128.79) for a 4.0L and automatic transmission. I'm not sure if it designed for a 4.0L with an AW4, fewer XJ's used a 30RH transmission.

MOPAR Part # 5191929AA
101.0" Wheelbase; 4 door; Automatic trans.; W/ ENGINE COOLING - HEAVY DUTY
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05191929AA-0-ANG__ra_t.jpg
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http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode=1363384&parttype=2172
 
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I don't believe anyone is producing a copper/brass radiator anymore. Aluminum is stronger, thinner and is much more efficient at heat transfer.

That said... Most people report the CSF radiators are junk. Cheap alloy.

I picked up a two core copper/brass from Rockauto just last year, and still run it; can't recall the brand though. Cools just a few degrees better than the OEM that cracked a tank. I almost went with the OEM but for $159 shipped I decided to go all metal.

It did take a rock/debris shot on the interstate and weeps now on the fins. I have to pull it and have it repaired and we'll see if it still holds up.

The clearance is really tight, I don't know how anyone fits a CSF and a fan clutch upgrade in there. :shocked:
 
Copper actually has better heat transfer than aluminum. Are preferred as heat-sinks over aluminum. The advantage of aluminum cores previously noted , aluminum is stronger can be stretched thinner creating larger tubes and more efficient heat transferring cores. When building a radiator heat transfer is more efficient when using thinner tubing.

Part of radiator cooling efficiency is when there is more air flow and the ambient air is cooler than pressurized coolant in the radiator. I kept the non-working A/C condenser installed, lowers air flow but helps to protect the radiator from rocks and debris.

If I were in a desert with high heat I would probably be looking for an aluminum radiator such as a Griffin and OE HD, Previously alums were used for high heat conditions such as racing applications.

I'm in generally cooler climate with from ~40 to over 150+ inches anual percip. (depending on which area you're in.) and using a CSF 3 core installed new several years ago. Hasn't produced any leaks. It appears somewhat cheaper than my standard duty OEM, but cools better.

On average, on-road, my coolant temps stay between 195 - 200 deg. F. In heavy ocean sand I'm staying at ~210 or less in normal heat conditions. Over 85 deg. F ambient air temps, coolant temps may go a little above 210. The sand isn't light or hard pack it's heavy loose drifting ocean beach sand, loose up to a few feet deep, where larger pickup trucks, some 4x4 have gotten stuck. Any non 4x4 vehicles normally become immediately stuck.

The CSF has worked good so far, perhaps an OEM HD alum. would work slightly better and last longer? While looking at radiator I considered a Griffin and OE HD alum. but could not find any specs for the OE. The Griffin was over $500.00 the OE HD was around ~$350.00 ... decided to save a few dollars. A copper/brass radiator potentially is easier, less expensive to repair both from a rad shop and while off-road.


To preserve the cooling system and coolant, more recently installed a bypass filter in the heater hose. The coolant stays much cleaner, doesn't require changing as often. Sometimes coolant rated for 3 to 5 years becomes bad within ~one year.
 
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The radiator installed several years ago is a CSF 3 row core, (doesn't have 3 cores) has worked good so far and is the type of radiator originally installed with the cast iron 4.0L. I figured it would be easier to repair. Alums when repairing a leaking area, potentially weaken another area, causing more leaks, usually require aluminum welding to fix.

Here's a link with some information about the differences between copper/brass and aluminum radiators.

http://www.cgj.com/2013/07/16/aluminum-vs-copper-brass-radiator-final-thoughts/
 
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