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Head gaskett set...

hayhaulerleradoxj

NAXJA Forum User
Hello everybody, I'm going to install a better 242 cu in into my 91 Cherokee..I've never done this before...I already have the replacement and it has some oil leaks...so I want to do a good job to it while it is out if the jeep...I need to know what is a good head gaskett set?..NAXJA
 
Never had a problem using FELPRO for any engine head so far, and/or complete FELPRO engine sets. Most, (due to the stretching of old head bolts), will obtain brand new head bolts to install any head in order to obtain proper torque values. Just remember to perform an; "In service" torque value after 'break-in'.., in this case the effects of heat, cold, oil, water, and combustion pressures occurring between block/head to your new gasket. Meaning.., after some certain miles of use, 500 maybe, (others might chime in on the correct amount of miles as per the 242), one needs to remove the valve cover, and 'reset' the new head bolts.

Since you are taking off the head from the replacement engine to fix the noticeable oil leak you might also want to consider having a professional head job check, i.e., flatness of head sealing surface, and the condition of the valve seats/valves, valve stem seals, etc. Springs are probably ok, but they too can be tested for springy-ness, lol. I prefer FELPRO valve stem seals, (sort of translucent tan types over the more generic black neopreme types.., the latter which can shatter in cold weather starts).

You can check the flatness of the head sealing surface with a flat sheet of glass, preferably a thick hardened sheet obtained from a glass shop, that just fits a head. The concept is akin to a "true-table". Paint oil on the head surfaces facing upwards, and absolutely level>>>with your finger, or a brush, or even spray oil of your choice, and then place sheet of glass on top insuring that it all remains level. At this point you will notice the metal/oil/glass showing either an even pattern of oil displacement, or not. If not, then you can file down the high spots. Tedious work that is, but can be self satisfying.., but for my time, (equating to dollars), I'd consider just taking head to a machine/mechanic's shop that provides this service, along with grinding head valve seating surfaces in order to meet exactly with either re-ground valve seating surfaces, or to new valves.

Might have explored more information than you need, but I can ramble, lol. Again.., hopefully others will 'chime-in', and offer additional information, or corrections as per what I have stated. Have fun.
 
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