New A/C Compressor - Need Accumulator Also?

2001 Cherokee Sport
4.0 w/ AT
160,000 mi

The bearing in my compressor has been squealing in cold weather for years. It has finally gotten bad along with the A/C clutch giving up. I can get a reman'ed compressor for $200 locally. In reading some part descriptions for new compressors it says the accumulator and expansion valve should also be replaced. True?

I don't want to charge the system myself (tried it once - I'll leave it to the pros). Can I hook up the lines and get to an A/C place without damaging the compressor? Of course the A/C won't be on but I don't want to chance ruining a new part.

Thanks.

I always change the accumulator/receiver dryer if there was internal compressor failure causing shrapnel to be dispensed throughout the system. In an expansion valve system it is technically called a receiver dryer and it a accumulates metal particles and junk, same goes for the expansion valve, as a pinch point it accumulates crap. Since yours failed external to the AC system I would chance not replacing them but don't leave the system open very long because the dryer also contains desiccant, like you find in little packages in new shoes, that absorbs water. It can absorb water out of the air and become saturated in a short amount of time, ruining it. As far as running it to a shop, I would fill it full of the correct amount of oil when placing the new compressor on, drive it there with the AC off (compressor wouldn't come on even if you turned it on due to the pressure cut-off switch) and have them charge it.

I would change the accumulator with the A/C compressor unless the accumulator has been changed recently and you only have the system open for a few minutes. If you can't pull vacuum on the system once you reassemble, I would let the shop do it all. As joejeep92 says, the accumulator absorbs moisture in the system. Humid air has moisture. His point about having the shop doing the accumulator is good. But when things don't work right and you've mixed your parts and theirs and some of their labor, getting it warrantied can be difficult unless you have it worked out with them ahead of time.

Usually cheap parts and they are considered to be service items

Another factor is some places will not warranty the compressor unless it is done...

joejeep92 said:

Another factor is some places will not warranty the compressor unless it is done...

Click to expand...

^^ This.

And change the Liquid Line.

Bearing, clutch, what internal failure? Why replace the compressor? Bolt a new clutch assembly on it and go, no evacuate and recharge required, never break the system, and leave the dryer alone.

I mean, really. You had an external failure and wish to replace a lot more than what failed. If it blew cold up to clutch failure, just change the clutch. They cost less than a hundred dollars and you can do it yourself. The idler bearing is a part of the assembly.

In other words, if your idler makes noise, and the clutch goes out, it does not affect the compressor. It does not affect the system. It is on top in front and a child could change it.

The reason I come to this conclusion is because you said the bearing made noise in cold weather. Unless you were running the defrost all winter, that says idler bearing. The idler carries one half of the clutch, so when the bearing goes, naturally the air gap at the friction surfaces opens, and the clutch will soon fail from the heat in slipping.

Also, the oil in the compressor, as well as the rest of the system never even comes close to the clutch unless the front seal on the compressor goes. The idler bearing is a sealed, permanently lubricated assembly which is bolted (or secured with a snap ring) to the front of the compressor.

The internals of the compressor have the same amount of miles as the bearing and clutch. What is to say they don't go out in five miles necessitating the replacement of all of it?

joejeep92 said:

The internals of the compressor have the same amount of miles as the bearing and clutch. What is to say they don't go out in five miles necessitating the replacement of all of it?

Click to expand...

My thoughts exactly...it's a 14 year old vehicle after all.

Things wear out...

joejeep92 said:

The internals of the compressor have the same amount of miles as the bearing and clutch. What is to say they don't go out in five miles necessitating the replacement of all of it?

Click to expand...

I don't necessarily disagree... however replacing the AC clutch can be done in one's garage with no need to open the system up. I think it depends on what all the OP wants to replace and spend.

If you don't know what you're doing I'd recommend having a qualified shop handle the entire install if you're going to open up the system and replace the compressor, etc...

Let us know how it turns out.

I'm temped to just replace the clutch and bearing. I found the kit on RockAuto for about $140. In researching this it appears that a good set of snap ring pliers is a must. Small nut on clutch and remove retaining ring for the hub. New bearing already installed in hub. New compressor $200, accumulator $40, vacuum and recharge system $100+ for a total of $340. I really don't want to mess with replacing the compressor at this point.

I have another vehicle so it may be a few weeks before I work on the Jeep.

That's a lot higher than the ones I found, around $95. If it has better friction materials, (some are just metal to metal) then it may be worth it.

Also as noted, replacement requires belt removal and one bolt, one snap ring.