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Driveshaft question

2

2T2-Crash

NAXJA Forum User
Location
WA state
Continuing my "fix what I halfassed in my youth" theme:

I lifted my XJ using the ford coils and Chevy S-10 leaf swap. The lift has been phenomenal and I love it, but when I did it I put 1" spacer blocks under the transmission cross bar. This eliminated any vibes I had but definitely angled the engine and I'm concerned with that effects on other parts of the drive train.

With my brown dog engine mounts on the way should I ditch the transmission spacers and go to a SYE?
What do you suggest for a rig that sees the bulk of its off-roading during hunting season? Also trying to keep it on a budget since the wife (boss) doesn't always see my "emergencies" as an actual one worthy of spending money. :dunno:
LOL
 
How high did you go? I noticed no change at just under three inches without messing with the cross member.

When angling the engine, I'd worry about the fan in the radiator, but new mounts should alleviate the slack.
 
If I recall correctly it was approx 2 1/2" up front and 2 3/4" in the rear.

ETA: The fan is fine and clear, I've done some pretty good wheeling with the rig and the only issues I have had is the wonderful jackhammering from the shocks.
 
With a transfer case drop, your rear drive shaft angles improve while the front shaft's angle get worse.
An SYE leave the front shaft angles alone while improving the rear angles.
Do check the front shaft's pinion angle and set to 1/2 -1 degree, to reduce vibs and prolong the life of the u-joint.
The FMS instructs that the proper pinion angle is more important than caster.
 
I'm going to sound like a bigger idiot but oh well....
Reguarding the front drive shaft angle, most of your post went over my head but I want to fix it. Is there a good guide on it? With lots of pictures... I enlisted for a reason. :jester:
 
Your lift is minimal, and you said you put the spacers in at the same time. You also said this cleared up vibrations you had, which I'm assuming were present before the lift?

I have over a hundred thousand miles on a similar setup with no spacers. I doubt you need them, and I doubt your pinion angle is much different than it was. The lower control arms are adjustable for caster, but I never had to bother with mine.

tl;dr, ditch the spacers, worry about other things when you get over three inches.
 
My experience is with a 96 4.0 AW4 242. Everything from the converter to the front axle came from an 89, including drive shafts. I have 2 1/2" spacers on top of an extra isolator for a total of 2 3/4 -3" up front. The rear has extra top and secondary XJ leaves added to the original pack for an even 3".

About the most important thing I had to do was cut and roll the rear fenders. 257/70/17s are almost 33s. I left tabs across the top and kept the original flares. Also a good time to do something about the front fenders. Otherwise, expect chewed rubber and bent metal. A tough set of tires (or two) will clearance them, but it isn't pretty.
 
I've been using 31's and get a lot of good sway, I only rub them when I really stuff the tires which doesnt happen often. I pulled the spacers today while replacing the motor mounts. I'll see how she feels while driving, nothing odd up to 35 mph.
 
after a month of driving the XJ around without the spacers I have noticed that she drives fine up until about 60 mph, which is when I start to feel some vibrations but nothing crazy. I haven't gotten above 70 with it.

I am loving the new motor mounts though.
 
The best answer is to measure the driveline angles and go from there. If you can't make the rear driveshaft angles correct with a standard driveshaft, then you should get a SYE. When lifting the front, the same should occur. The "fix" in the front is typically adjustable lower control arms for the range of lift we are talking about. I don't care for transfer case drops because they stress the motor mounts, change the alignment of your shift linkage, and also the exhaust hangers...
 
md21722 said:
The best answer is to measure the driveline angles and go from there. If you can't make the rear driveshaft angles correct with a standard driveshaft, then you should get a SYE. When lifting the front, the same should occur. The "fix" in the front is typically adjustable lower control arms for the range of lift we are talking about. I don't care for transfer case drops because they stress the motor mounts, change the alignment of your shift linkage, and also the exhaust hangers...
Click to expand...

^^^Exactly; well said
 
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