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josh870
April 11th, 2015, 13:11
:huh: pretty sure my 2000 4.0 xj is leaking from from the oil filter adapter, i have all three O rings ready to go on but i cant get the darn adapter off! its a t60, so im just using a 12mm wrench on a t60 socket since there is no clearance, then i put a pipe over the wrench but it just wont budge!! need ideas ASAP. thanks in advance

Anak
April 11th, 2015, 13:19
You might try sending a PM to Original_MudButt

I think health issues have impacted things for him, but I believe he is the one who makes a tool for this job. One of these days I need to get one of them.

The Mick
April 11th, 2015, 14:40
I used an L shaped t60 wrinch from O'reillys with a 3 foot pipe on it from Home Depot. I got the smallest diameter pipe that would fit over it and left the orange cap that came on the pipe on to help snug it up. It took some time and another person to keep it in place but it did come loose.

IslanderOffRoad
April 11th, 2015, 15:02
I remember having to use some serious force to get mine to budge.

josh870
April 11th, 2015, 15:35
I used an L shaped t60 wrinch from O'reillys with a 3 foot pipe on it from Home Depot. I got the smallest diameter pipe that would fit over it and left the orange cap that came on the pipe on to help snug it up. It took some time and another person to keep it in place but it did come loose.

where did you fit a 3 foot pipe!? did you go from the top or underneath?
i tried alot more but i had my appendix removed recently so i had to stop and just go ahead with the oil change. i will have to pick up a t60 L wrench next time, didnt know they made em. thanks for the quick replies guys

md21722
April 11th, 2015, 15:43
I use a serpentine belt tensioner tool with a T-60 socket and go at it from the bottom. The belt tensioner tool is basically a long flat bar with a 3/8" square drive for sockets. You may even need a cheater pipe on that. You can buy pipes Ace Hardware, Lowe's, HD, Farm and Ranch stores, etc. You can probably rent the belt tensioner tool.

IslanderOffRoad
April 11th, 2015, 15:45
where did you fit a 3 foot pipe!? did you go from the top or underneath?
i tried alot more but i had my appendix removed recently so i had to stop and just go ahead with the oil change. i will have to pick up a t60 L wrench next time, didnt know they made em. thanks for the quick replies guys

I went from the top.

popped the T60 bit out of its socket. Fits perfectly in a 9/16" wrench. Cut the open end off one, duct taped it in to the box end. put it on the filter, end of the wrench facing straight up. put a high lift handle around it, give it a few good yanks and it will break loose.

Jesse_Hallum
April 11th, 2015, 16:03
Same problem here on my '01. Used a 1/2" Craftsman wrench with a T-60, and promptly bent the wrench trying.

I finally broke it loose with the T60 L-wrench from O'Really, and a floor jack handle, from the top side. With this combo, it broke loose relatively easily. Highly recommended.

Einulfr
April 11th, 2015, 17:08
Just did this last week. First I hit all around the bolt with some PB for two days, then I cut my Harbor Freight T60 open and duct-taped it in a wrench. Slid my floor jack handle over the wrench from underneath and it loosened up without too much effort. Just make sure it doesn't try to slip; clean the gunk out of the bolt first if there's any. Once it was loose I attacked it from above since I had to keep re-seating it.

http://i.imgur.com/xeO78e1.jpg?1

There wasn't even an o-ring on it. :confused:

iwannadie
April 11th, 2015, 17:59
I did mine from underneath, I tapped the bit out of the socket(to get more clearance) and put the bit into a wrench and used my floor jack handle for leverage. The floor jack handle gave me enough leverage that it came free instantly.

josh870
April 11th, 2015, 18:19
alot of great ideas here. makes me really wanna try again, do you have to drain the oil to take it off?

IslanderOffRoad
April 11th, 2015, 18:26
alot of great ideas here. makes me really wanna try again, do you have to drain the oil to take it off?

I didn't.

Trumbo
April 11th, 2015, 22:29
Yup. Cheater is the key. It sucked as bad as removing my rear bumper. cluster F.

md21722
April 11th, 2015, 22:36
alot of great ideas here. makes me really wanna try again, do you have to drain the oil to take it off?

you don't. i changed the filter on mine and added enough oil to compensate, but even that is questionable.

Jesse_Hallum
April 12th, 2015, 07:15
alot of great ideas here. makes me really wanna try again, do you have to drain the oil to take it off?

I removed the filter, then reinstalled after changing the seals. Only a few tablespoons of oil were lost. Once you break the OFA loose, the rest is easy. I was surprised at how easy it broke loose, just twisted right off, after the right tools were applied. A T60 L-wrench worked great for me.

The Mick
April 12th, 2015, 11:47
where did you fit a 3 foot pipe!? did you go from the top or underneath?
i tried alot more but i had my appendix removed recently so i had to stop and just go ahead with the oil change. i will have to pick up a t60 L wrench next time, didnt know they made em. thanks for the quick replies guys

I went from the top. I had the wife hold a piece of wood from under the jeep between the body and the wrench so it would not slip off. I did PB blaster the day prior a few times to let it soak in. It took some force but it came loose.

These were worth every cent.
http://i612.photobucket.com/albums/tt202/themick85/Forum%20pics/torx.jpg (http://s612.photobucket.com/user/themick85/media/Forum%20pics/torx.jpg.html)

Einulfr
April 12th, 2015, 12:53
I didn't.

Nope. The oil level is below that of the adapter, the only oil you'll lose is what will come out of the filter once you tip it (like in my pic.) Not a drop until I set it down on the little spill tray I had nearby.

The Mick
April 12th, 2015, 13:35
I went from the top.

popped the T60 bit out of its socket. Fits perfectly in a 9/16" wrench.

I tried this first and ended up breaking the bit.

Original_MudButt
April 13th, 2015, 08:53
You might try sending a PM to Original_MudButt

I think health issues have impacted things for him, but I believe he is the one who makes a tool for this job. One of these days I need to get one of them.
Thanks for the recommendation.... My 1st day back to work even!

I have 3 of them sitting here ready to ship.

They were fabbed for some other members before I got sick and I have yet to get back to them. But they literally take like 10 minutes to make.

I have to charge $6.00 for the torx bit, but the steel and labor is free to you. I use the USPS "If it fits, it ships" box, so it ends up being somewhere around 20 bux shipped. PM me.

lightfighter
April 13th, 2015, 16:25
I had a spare T60 3/8" socket that I had to cut the ratchet end off to make it shorter. Put the box end of a 10mm (?) wrench over the T60 and was able to get enough leverage by stacking another wrench to get leverage... Came off relatively easy but due to the lack of room its time consuming.

87manche
April 13th, 2015, 17:26
Thanks for the recommendation.... My 1st day back to work even!

I have 3 of them sitting here ready to ship.

They were fabbed for some other members before I got sick and I have yet to get back to them. But they literally take like 10 minutes to make.

I have to charge $6.00 for the torx bit, but the steel and labor is free to you. I use the USPS "If it fits, it ships" box, so it ends up being somewhere around 20 bux shipped. PM me.

are you welding a torx bit into a piece of bar stock?

cause that's what I was going to do.

I've got 4 of these things to do. Lucky me.

I like the serpentine belt tool suggestion. I may give that a go.

I have to go get all of my t60 sockets replaced though. GM cars have eaten 4 of them recently. I'd really like to kick the guy that designed the rear brake knuckle on every 90's GM car in the taint.

Original_MudButt
April 13th, 2015, 20:18
are you welding a torx bit into a piece of bar stock?

Yes. 1/2" x 1" x 12" long mild steel bar stock. I buy the torx bits at Autozone. T60 for 3/8 ratchet.

Press the torx bit out of the base, drill hole (I forget what diameter) 1/2" from one end in the middle of the 1" dimension of the bar stock.

Insert torx bit and weld in place.

I found it's easiest if you break the bolt loose from below then remove it from above.

ss427ci
April 14th, 2015, 00:53
Some good ideas in this thread. Thanks for posting. Now I need to get around to doing this.

CromsDog
April 15th, 2015, 16:38
I used a T60 L Wrench with a deep well socket over the top of the long end. I then put an 18" extension on to that and it came off pretty easy. I followed some advice I got off of YouTube and heated the engine up for a while before I went after it.

mechbullxj
April 15th, 2015, 17:49
[QUOTE=mechbullxj;246120910]I removed one @ the JY for a 2nd. to put on No.1 4.0 waiting for refurbishment. On day 1 I sprayed t/ adapter w/ PB Blaster and then went home. The 2nd. day back @ JY I brought a 12mm spanner w/ a ratcheting closed end and t/ T60 bit. I removed t/ oil filter from the adapter also. This could allow you to hit the adapter w/ a soft faced type of hammer to break free of t/ seal/washer enough to remove that combo bolt. I turned that bolt and away it went.