HP 44 w/ iro long arm?

:wave: To start out this is my first post here so let me give some details of what i have going on. I have a 99 xj sport I have just installed the IRO 8" critical path kit as well as tnt stiffeners also i ran into rusted bolts snapping issues with the rear leafs so I bought the synergy rear leaf brackets once I received those I realized how easy it would be to relocate the rear axle with said brackets so I ordered the H.D. offroad shackle relocation brackets and relocated my rear about 5" back. All of this is being done to clear the pro comp 40x13.5 xtreme mt2's.

Heres my question. I have acquired a 78 or 79 (just got it last night have yet to actually see what year its out of) HP Dana 44 and a Sterling 10.25. Has anybody ran the IRO long arms with a HP 44? I was going to run the TNT truss but after investigation I have come to find out that TNT/IRO wont work (thank god I researched it cause I was just about to complete the order) I know the 44/iro combination can be done but just would like to see if and how others have done it.

I don't think it would work, not to mention that 10mm bolt would concern me.

Your best option would be to remove the radius arm part of the driver side arm and build a 3 link with the IRO lowers.

I know a guy who did it,he cut the caster adjuster off of the Iron Y and extended it to fit onto a mount on a bridge he had made over the differential.
Personally i would ditch the IRO set up and go with something more easily adaptable.

I have a 78/79 Ford 3/4ton D44 in my MJ but i built a custom 3 link when i installed it.

what did ya pay for the dana 44? im lookin' 4 1~!

I know that even a Currie built HPD44 adn their Rockjock D44 hp with cast in mounts, do not "bolt in" with a RE Y link radius arm... You have to start trimming alot of the mount and the arms to clear. And even then, you really limit your caster before you just can do any more trimming and your just rubbing the center with the upper arm.

DO a 3 link w trackbar, and ditch that POS Radius arm crap.

Jbh97009 said:

I don't think it would work, not to mention that 10mm bolt would concern me.

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I have read ALOT of people concerned with the grade 8 10mm bolt but I have yet to actually see somebody who has had it fail on them. You are correct that getting a different setup would be a good option but I am determined to make this work not only for myself but so when somebody else runs into this they can have a clear answer on how to. I can't be the only one running their kit that wants to or has swapped axles.

You can probably salvage the lowers, cut the upper off, and go to a true 3 link. That is mostly your only bet at this point.

A radius arm setup with one upper is not a good idea. Even worse, that the single upper is welded to the lower and held to the axle with a 10mm bolt. Its just not a good idea all around.

I run 3/4" bolts with my 1.25" heims. I would not trust a 10mm bolt with my life on a 3 link.

I think the caster adjuster is more of an issue than the 10mm bolt. That said, the IRO and most other Y-link kits are made to run with the 30. With your upper "arm" being welded to the lower makes it MUCH more difficult to work with different axles and setups.
A 3/4-link is definitely a better setup for a larger/heavier axle. Other than to "save" money, I do not understand why people buy the IRO long arms.

JRLawley88 said:

I have read ALOT of people concerned with the grade 8 10mm bolt but I have yet to actually see somebody who has had it fail on them. You are correct that getting a different setup would be a good option but I am determined to make this work not only for myself but so when somebody else runs into this they can have a clear answer on how to. I can't be the only one running their kit that wants to or has swapped axles.

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You don't have to get a new setup! Use the IRO arms for lowers (cut the y off) and make 1 upper (you can put it on either side) and bam, you have a 3 link.

You just need one frame side mount and one axle side...

Johnnie Walker said:

Other than to "save" money, I do not understand why people buy the IRO long arms.

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probably because 95% of people think it is a 3 link lol

blondejoncherokee said:

You can probably salvage the lowers, cut the upper off, and go to a true 3 link. That is mostly your only bet at this point.

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This is the best idea IMO.. The IRO lowers are beef, the Cross-member is a great design.. chop the radius arm off and turn it into a 3 link.. at this point it would be the cheapest option aswell

JRLawley88 said:

I have read ALOT of people concerned with the grade 8 10mm bolt but I have yet to actually see somebody who has had it fail on them. You are correct that getting a different setup would be a good option but I am determined to make this work not only for myself but so when somebody else runs into this they can have a clear answer on how to. I can't be the only one running their kit that wants to or has swapped axles.

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a couple threads here with pictures of them failing and destroying everything shocks control arms etc.

There's even been pics with the cross member failing. Find me the same issues With Clayton TNT RE BDS or even Rustys