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Where to cut the floor for the rear upper shock mounts?

Alexia

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Huntsville, AL
Does anyone have a general measurement guide where to start cutting to access the rear upper shock mounts through the floor? I am just finding basic things such as about the middle of the wheel well.

No, I am not interested in any other clever solutions.
 
decide where you want to put them then cut? this kind of mod is a one-off that is going to be different in every rig.
 
decide where you want to put them then cut? this kind of mod is a one-off that is going to be different in every rig.

I think he's trying to access the original factory mounting bolts-- if so, I would crawl under and hammer an awl or screw driver upward to leave a small dent where you want to cut.
 
I think he's trying to access the original factory mounting bolts-- if so, I would crawl under and hammer an awl or screw driver upward to leave a small dent where you want to cut.

That would require access inside the area where I need to cut open though. :p It is blocked off by the entire shock mounting area.
 
punch a few places around the shock mount crossmember. then you know where to cut.
 
I found a pic online of an XJ with a hole cut very nicely in the floor above

the front leaf mount showing the end of the bolt and threads but

maybe it was a 2 door or a different year or something because it looked

different than mine does. Directly above the mount is where two pieces of

sheet metal meet and are bent upward so its tough to gauge where to cut.

Ill give a shot at drilling small holes then looking in with a flashlight and find the end of the bolt.
Thanks.
 
I used this site when I had to go through the whole ordeal. I remember starting with a small hole and had to expand it in the direction needed, no need to cut too much and still not have it gain you access needed. I didn't have a welder at the time so I just used some RTV and pieces of sturdy sheet metal to cover the holes back up and it's been fine for years now.
 
I used this site when I had to go through the whole ordeal. I remember starting with a small hole and had to expand it in the direction needed, no need to cut too much and still not have it gain you access needed. I didn't have a welder at the time so I just used some RTV and pieces of sturdy sheet metal to cover the holes back up and it's been fine for years now.

The drill through the center of the recessed area is perfect! Thanks. :D

I am dropping it off at a body shop later this week to have a floor pan replaced so I can get them to weld it up nicely for me.
 
The worst part is pulling all the rear plastic trim to get the carpet up it seemed like it All had to come out. Rear seat belt mounts upper/lower, sound bar, seat back, every piece of plastic, etc. I thought about cutting small access holes in the carpet and rear floor to get to them easier.
 
Never understood why people cut the floor when there is access holes to get to the back side of the shock mounts from underneath.
SMH

Because the bolts broke off and the nuts are welded in place. The nuts in mine were not only spot welded 4 times each but also i think about 2/3rds of the way around had a bead of weld also. There was no hammering them free, had to cut them out.
 
Never understood why people cut the floor when there is access holes to get to the back side of the shock mounts from underneath.
SMH

Air hammer, mini-sledge hammer and chisel, nothing is break these free anything this XJ. They are rusted enough to break the bolts, but not rusted enough to break the welds.

If you would like to come over and break them off gently without damaging the crossmemer, for free, then please come on over. :D
 
Air hammer, mini-sledge hammer and chisel, nothing is break these free anything this XJ. They are rusted enough to break the bolts, but not rusted enough to break the welds.

If you would like to come over and break them off gently without damaging the crossmemer, for free, then please come on over. :D

I barely touched mine with an air hammer before they popped right out. I did have it "turned up to 11".
 
I did it with 120 PSI and cutting one of my pointed chisels off flat. The majority of the problem was the pointed chisel had no chance of engaging the broken bolt.
 
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