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Stripped Block

K

KelticTJ

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Denver, Colorado
Oil Filter Adapter Bolt Hole Stripped (On Block)

Well I was doing the infamous O ring replacement on the oil filter adapter. I got the bolt to break free pretty easily and got the adapter out. Now for putting it back on.....The bolt that goes into the block seems to be rounded out at the tip so I got a new bolt. Now I'm almost positive the threads on the block are stripped, the new bolt won't thread in at all. What is the best way to go about doing this? This has really turned into a PITA. Thanks all
 
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Here is a pic of the original bolt and bolt hole for reference
IMG_0708.jpg

IMG_0710.jpg
 
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Whatever you do, remember you will need to flush the metal particles out unless you want them going directly into your bearings. isn't the center port the feed to the bearings? I forget, but the position of the drainback valve indicates it is.
 
kastein said:
Whatever you do, remember you will need to flush the metal particles out unless you want them going directly into your bearings. isn't the center port the feed to the bearings? I forget, but the position of the drainback valve indicates it is.
Click to expand...

I believe it does. I think I'm going to have to try to get a die in there somehow, which really intimidates me :doh:
 
Undo the motor mount on that side and use a piece of 2x4 and a jack under the oil pan, you should be able to raise the engine several inches that way. At least you will have more room to work. Find the shortest tap you can and plan on using a box wrench or vise grips on the square drive peg at the back instead of a conventional tap handle. Since you are chasing threads not cutting new ones it shouldn't be too too bad, just make sure it starts in the threads and goes in straight and it will follow them pretty easily.
 
Sure you know but plug the hole with a bit of rag push it down in and that will keep shavings from going to far in. I had to do this a few years ago.

I tied a string to the rag before I pushed it in. Then used a shop vac and then pulled the rag out.
 
Yeah, that would work. I would recommend a good blast of brakleen before pulling the rag out, just to make sure the threads are cleaned of all metal particles.
 
Just an update, Mike (Hypoid) was kind enough to come over and help me out. We had to run a tap through the hole and it was good to go after that. A BIG thanks to Mike for coming over and lending a hand, even in the snow.

Also, the replacement bolt I got from Jeep doesn't have a second O ring. The bolts are identical besides the O ring and the tech at Jeep said that was fine, part number matches too. Anyone seen that before?


IMG_0711%202.jpg
 
KelticTJ said:
Also, the replacement bolt I got from Jeep doesn't have a second O ring. The bolts are identical besides the O ring and the tech at Jeep said that was fine, part number matches too. Anyone seen that before?


IMG_0711%202.jpg
Click to expand...

Bueller, Bueller???
 
that doesn't seem right. I don't think I'd use that.
if nothing else, not having an o-ring there seems like it would let dirty oil bypass the filter and head straight down the inside of the bolt to the bearings.
also, depending on what the pressure/flow is doing, some of the pressure could be lost around the outside of the bolt back to the "dirty side".
I don't know how that would actually work out in application, but it sure seems like a bad idea...?
 
Looking at how the bolt/oil tube fits thru the adapter, is at a close tolerance. I agree that you'll be able to use it with out an issue. Hypoid I wanted to know what size tap you used. Was it 17mm or standard? Also what thread pitch? thanks.
 
The block is tapped with a 3/4-16. I searched that here, then verified it with a thread pitch gauge.

My first thought was that the engineers must consider the bypass a non-issue. I wanted some input from people who have more experience with building/rebuilding these engines.
 
It looks like the design changed because the friction fit between the shank and the hole is a better compromise than a worn or broken o-ring.

As soon as that o-ring is rolled, cracked or torn, it's doing exactly what you're talking about with bypassing the filter. At least with the shank being machined what little oil you get going around the filter (my guess is very little) is consistent throughout the life of the installation.
 
Re: Oil Filter Adapter Bolt Hole Stripped (On Block)

I know you already taped dat ho. But for any one else reading this in the future. If you put axle grease in the gaps of the tap, that will catch most all the shavings.
 
Re: Oil Filter Adapter Bolt Hole Stripped (On Block)

DaKing said:
I know you already taped dat ho. But for any one else reading this in the future. If you put axle grease in the gaps of the tap, that will catch most all the shavings.
Click to expand...
Pack the flutes with grease, true and correct. ;)

Forty-five years ago, I watched my Pops teach my older brothers how to use Taps and Dies. Forty years ago, I learned how to read a Tap and Drill Chart. I still held my breath as I did this. You can get it right, or really screw up. If you screw up, you will get more practice after you pull the engine to install a thread insert. :mad:

RedHeep said:
It looks like the design changed because the friction fit between the shank and the hole is a better compromise than a worn or broken o-ring.
Click to expand...
Sadly, I did not think to check the diameter of the hollow bolts, nor did I take a measuring instrument capable of of reading less than a .001" variance.

I think it will be OK, but I am like a dog with a bone. :)
 
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