tnt front truss

So my new jeep has a ford hp 44 and is set by the op to run with the ford radius arms. I was planning to swap in my tnt long arms at some point, everything is smooth now.

But might just do it with all the other crap i want to change.

I was thinking of ordering the upper and high clearance lowers and maybe the coil and track bar brackets.

Question is what brackets did you order with it and what would you do different.

One thought is to wait on the tb bracket to weld on a Ruffstuff and make sure the angles are perfect. I may also add hydro assist.

Check Artec.

Get the Artec truss, the TNT truss is garbage and had known to break/crack the welds

I bought my TnT stuff way back when, and I dont think it was worth the headache. Granted, I was doing a bit more custom stuff, so no off the shelf stuff was going to work, but I would have been money and time ahead to make the brackets myself.

The truss is fine, although overkill for a XJ, especially with 1/2'' tubes.

I should have moved the LCA mounts even with the bottom of the axle, and raised the uppers the same amount.

Factor in steering and panhard before welding everything, I ended up having to move my coil buckets way back due to interference, and completely cut and rewelded the buckets that came with the TnT stuff.


I dont seem to recall paying as much as they now want for the kits, dont know if TnT raised their prices, or if my memory is starting to fail.

Long story short, **** it, build the 3 link now. My front suspension works, and Im rather happy with it, but its a compromise of everything. Ditch the truss and you have less weight, less worry of oilpan clearance, more room for a hydro assist ram, and maybe more steering/panhard mounting options.

Funny first negative i have heard.

Good point about weight and clearance matt.

I know you want to run your TNT Y link and keep it bolt on.

you very well might want offset coil buckets like the Ruffstuff ones - I run them and just welded shock mounts off the back of them.
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/COIL-OFF.html


You could just buy/build a pass side upper mount, mini truss over the diff , and buy/build f driver side UCA mount, and raise the LCA mounts flush with the tubes with some 5* flush LCA mounts like the ruffstuff ones I run. Probably cost a lot less and you can dial it in.

Is it just me, or does the TNT truss raise the coil buckets too? looks like it in the pics.

I think they do raise them. Mine are already 3 or 4 inches above the tube. Flush mount would mean new coil too....

XJensen said:

I think they do raise them. Mine are already 3 or 4 inches above the tube. Flush mount would mean new coil too....

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flush mount would mean enjoy the lower ride height since its so tall already. Maybe drop the rear down a bit- does it have shackle drop boxes ? you could remove them if so...

Everyone I have talked to said they wished they would have ordered the Tnt truss without any brackets welded on, that way they could put stuff exactly where they wanted/needed it....

That said I'm probably going artec for my 44 front

Artec does not offer a truss for the Ford HP44.

I personally have trashed two t&t trusses. And one the one that I didn't got destroyed after I sold it. No worth buying if you wheel hard.

Jbh97009 said:

Everyone I have talked to said they wished they would have ordered the Tnt truss without any brackets welded on, that way they could put stuff exactly where they wanted/needed it....

That said I'm probably going artec for my 44 front

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I agree an think whatever i got with i would like to set most if not all the brackets

my own personal experience with a tnt truss-

a group of friends and I were wheeling only a moderate trail, my buddy with the tnt truss was running a locked hp44 with4.88's on 37's. basically, the truss tore itself apart. the track bar bracket ripped itself away from the truss, tearing the passenger side coil bucket, the drivers side uca mount twisted and began to tear from the truss, and the drivers coil bucket also began to tear off the truss. in my opinion, the truss needs much more weld from tnt to better secure all the pieces, and the drivers side uca mount needs a lot more structure around the pumpkin.

also, before we ever even installed the truss, when we put the truss on our level welding table to inspect it, we noticed that the two uca mounts weren't even the same height. as in, the passenger side mount was 1.5 inches higher than the drivers, basically meaning the two uca's wouldn't be in the same plane.

and lastly, when we called the customer service.. they said "sorry about your luck, were gonna send you a shirt". a 10$ shirt for a 700$ dollar truss failure.......

thought I would mention that the welds we made, to secure the truss to the housing, did not fail.

just my own experience. your results may vary

RoyalXJ said:

I personally have trashed two t&t trusses. And one the one that I didn't got destroyed after I sold it. No worth buying if you wheel hard.

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after seeing this first hand, I completely agree

I must be the only one without a problem so far . I put mine on in 2007 and it is yet to have a problem. It is a daily driver, locked with 35s. I do not beat the crap out of my rig though.

If you are handy with a welder, I am sure you could build what you need for a lot less money. I originally bought the TB bracket and it worked fine. I eventually wanted to do crossover and ditched that for an OTA track bar using Ruffstuff parts.

I have had no issues with clearance and actually found the truss quite convenient for hydro assist.

Maybe I am lucky or maybe I do not beat my rig hard enough...but I have had a positive experience. But reading this thread...if I were you I would look harder into custom fabbing what you want. arty:

Yeah I Am Thinking I Need To Call The Local Fab Shop. I Just Don't Have The Time To Build One Myself.

I purchased a TnT truss years ago before putting my project xj on hold. I ended up taking the truss to them for the install and when I went to pick it up they had built me a completely new truss, no charge. They said that my truss was made during an era where they had some bad welds and consequently had to let the welder go. I wonder if the trusses that have failed were from that same era possibly? I will let you guys know how mine fairs. 44/60 locked on 35s, Colorado rocks.

I had both eras fail

RoyalXJ said:

I had both eras fail

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Do you have picks of the failures by chance?

I would also like to know. This is the best if not only prefab option.