Need to change fuel pump what else to do?

While I change my fuel pump on 95 XJ I am going to do the filter, sender and as much fuel line as possile. What else should I do while its all disassembled? Flush out tank or something? Thanks.

I recently did the pump in a 96 xj. You do not have to drop the tank unless you want to flush it out. The pump, pick up "sock" and in line filter were about $100. The access is on the front of the tank facing the rear axle. Be careful when removing the pump/sending unit assembly. I was only able to buy the pump, pick up "sock" and in line filter. You reuse the sender and pressure valve. Replacing the rubber hoses at the same time is a good idea.

I would not mess with the sender assembly unless its broken. The OEM sender is better quality than most of the aftermarket parts.

Note from DJ
Gates Fuel Line Hose Information
http://www.gates.com/oreilly/tech_tips/PermeationResistantFuelLineHose.pdf

Recommended: Fuel Injection (SAE 30R9)/MPI Hose
Fuel injection (SAE 30R9) or MPI (multi-port injection) hose is reinforced to handle higher pressures up to 180 psi. It can be used on all injection systems that use hose clamps, but it should not be used to replace coupled assemblies on fuel injection systems.

Gates SAE 30R9 hose features a thin inner layer wall constructed with a compound called Fluoroelastomer (FKM), which resists gas permeation and retards aging.
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Information from this post #6 by Anak
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1107991&highlight=1996+fuel

Note from DJ
Why are you replacing your fuel pump?
If you hear it running during the priming cycle the pump may be OK.
You may just have a plugged furl filter.
Or when you remove your old pump you may find that the one hose that has been submerged in Ethanol diluted gas has become soft and blowed off.

That’s why you want to replace hoses with Gates SAE 30R9 hose.

The older gas hose were OK before Ethanol.

djgrayxj said:

Why are you replacing your fuel pump?

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Preventive maintenance. It does work but the engine has over 220,000 miles on it and I dont know if the fuel pump has been replaced and either the sender or the gauge is acting up, but if I can only find cheap replacement senders then I will stick with the original one. Thanks guys, and thanks for the info on the fuel line.

I've got 350k miles on my original sender, still works great. I've got a spare sender and float from a part-out in the parts bin in case this one ever does die.

ehall said:

I've got 350k miles on my original sender, still works great. I've got a spare sender and float from a part-out in the parts bin in case this one ever does die.

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I am more worried about the fuel pump dying while on the road, but I do want to fix the sender as well. Anyone know about using an electrical fuel pump plumbed inline as a backup so if the stock one faills you can hit a switch?