ghettocherokee's Black Forest Service Jeep Build

So I have had my Jeep since 2011, but I haven't really been active on the forum with posting anything I have done to it. I have mostly been reading up on how others have done their rigs. So I guess it is time to start some sort of build thread. So here it goes:
I bought the Jeep in 2011 for $700. It had a blown transmission, a "trick" paint job, 116,000 miles and a crappy lift and tires. It took a few weeks to track down a transmission and get it running. It has been a blast ever since.

I know, I am cool.
I slowly built it up with no clue what I needed to do.

And then, I went crazy and regeared to 4.56's, built a front bumper, bought a tire carrier, locked the front, SYE and a 3 link.
http://s1350.photobucket.com/user/T...20140103_122851_910_zpszarwyxfq.jpg.html?o=75
Then I went to 35's, won a winch at EJS, locked the rear and hacked up the fenders.



and most recent

So that is my Jeep.

here is that picture that was a link.

So after my last outing I have decided I need a synthetic winch line and I need to figure out why my winch is not free spooling. I was looking at Olympus offroads lines, anyone have experience with them?
Also I shut off the jeep after it was running for close to 3 hours straight, most of the time at idle, and fired it up a few minutes later and it seemed like the motor was bogged down. Seemed like it wasn't running on all cylinders. After a minute or two, it ran normal again. Any ideas?

ghettocherokee said:

So after my last outing I have decided I need a synthetic winch line and I need to figure out why my winch is not free spooling. I was looking at Olympus offroads lines, anyone have experience with them?
Also I shut off the jeep after it was running for close to 3 hours straight, most of the time at idle, and fired it up a few minutes later and it seemed like the motor was bogged down. Seemed like it wasn't running on all cylinders. After a minute or two, it ran normal again. Any ideas?

Click to expand...

:wstupid: Mine does he same thing sometimes. Not sure what the answer is. Hopefully someone chimes in here?

ghettocherokee said:

... shut off the jeep after it was running for close to 3 hours straight, most of the time at idle, and fired it up a few minutes later and it seemed like the motor was bogged down. Seemed like it wasn't running on all cylinders. After a minute or two, it ran normal again. Any ideas?

Click to expand...

I would say heat soak, leaky injectors, or a failed fuel system check valve.


The fuel pump check valve is supposed to hold pressure in the fuel line while the engine is off. The check valve is located on the fuel pump and located in the gas tank. A failed check valve allows the fuel to drain back to the tank. This results in one or more of the following symptoms:

SYMPTOMS

• Longer than normal cranking times
• Never starts on first try, almost always starts on the second try
• Rough idle for a few moments of idling
• Rough running for first ½ block of driving
• Little or no fuel pressure at the fuel rail test valve similar to this -

1- Key in on position; fuel pump primes for 2 seconds then stops. 0 PSI
2- Cranking over the engine. 2-3 PSI
3- Engine starts and idles for 20 seconds. < 5 PSI
4- Engine idles and fuel pressure creeps up to 45-50 PSI.


POSSIBLE CAUSES

• Failed check valve on the fuel pump in the gas tank.
• Leaky fuel injector(s) may be the true cause of your problem, but more likely they are simply contributing to the check valve issue.

Testing of the fuel injectors should show if any are faulty and are allowing fuel to drain into the cylinder. Either problem can allow heat soak to vaporize the remaining fuel in the fuel rail, and you may be dealing with a bit of vapor lock as well, especially in warmer weather.

1. Connect the gauge at the fuel rail and start the engine. The gage should read 49 psi plus or minus 5 psi.
2. Turn the engine off and immediately clamp the fuel line just ahead of the fuel tank. Watch the pressure gage and see how long it takes to loose pressure.

If the pressure remains at 49 psi for an extended period of time then the problem is in the tank - probably the check valve. If the pressure falls below 49 psi fairly rapidly then the problem is probably a leaky injector.

There are a few solutions to the problem –

1. Turn the key to ON for 5 seconds and let the fuel pump prime. Turn the key to OFF, turn the key back to ON for 5 seconds, start the engine.
2. Crank the engine for 3-5 seconds, pause, and crank the engine again. It will almost always start on the second try.
3. Replace the fuel pump assembly in the gas tank. The check valve is not a separate part and cannot be serviced. This is both expensive and time consuming because you have to remove any hitches and skid plates and then remove the gas tank from the vehicle.

You can use solutions 1 or 2 for as long as you want to, they do not harm anything and the fuel pump will continue to function for many more years.


If you do replace the fuel pump assembly, purchase a high quality OEM style pump assembly such as Bosch or Carter. Some cheap aftermarket fuel pump assemblies, like Airtex, don’t hold up and fail completely within 12-18 months.

ghettocherokee said:

Also I shut off the jeep after it was running for close to 3 hours straight, most of the time at idle, and fired it up a few minutes later and it seemed like the motor was bogged down. Seemed like it wasn't running on all cylinders. After a minute or two, it ran normal again. Any ideas?

Click to expand...

Thats the infamous late-model heat soak issue. You have a 2001 with pre-cats? I had the same problem, consistently after a shutdown. Often times it would miss bad enough to cause an engine light. I tried wrapping the injectors, wrapping the manifold, and the factory "fix", none of which worked. I then installed hoodvents and have never had the problem again.

It seems like it could be either, I am leaning towards heat soak purely because it was running a bit warm and I was winching for close to 2 hours. It seems like any other time that it has happened, the jeep is hot or hotter. I will have to wait and see what happens, I know I need hood vents.

Well, as of right now, I am picking up a dana 44 and 60 so I can do a full width swap. The plan is to get the axles and wait until I have the money to build them the way I want. I'll start with the rear so if for whatever reason I decide to do a 60 front instead of the 44, I won't lose money. Really excited about this and hope I can make it work out, if not, I am out 150 for two axles.