If the trans. fluid is nice and pink and clean looking, and it shifts well, I'd not worry about a full change and filter unless it's getting up in the 200K mile range. The filter is coarse with a lot of real estate.
Check the alignment, and make sure that all steering components are tight. Make sure the axle universals are nice and tight too. Jack up each front wheel by the axle inboard of the knuckle, and check the ball joints by putting a lever under the tire and lifting. There should be no movement. Now turn the steering to full lock, and rotate the wheel. The wheel should turn easily even at full lock. Before it gets loose and noisy, an axle u-joint will often get dry and bind.
If it's been in a muddy environment, make sure there is not a lot of junk lying on top of the gas tank. It tends to catch up there, and can rust through. Also check very carefully for rust at leading corners of the roof, near the edge of the windshield, and repair anything that you find immediately, as it is very difficult to deal with rust if it goes through the roof. Of course it depends on where the thing has spent its life. I had to retire my Vermont 95 when the rust got so bad that I could not seal the windshield and cold air poured out on the passenger side, and every time it rained the driver's seat got wet. When the cold air outpaces the heater, it's a tough thing to use in winter.
As a general procedure, you should get underneath, and meditate a little, while looking carefully at everything for rust, leaks, and the like. All rust is best treated when young. While you're down there, check the anchor point for the front emergency brake cable, which is under the rear seat. If it shows signs of cracking or bending, the emergency brakes will be very weak. It's easily reinforced.
