Internal cooling circuit bursted in stock Rad.

Hey there, I have had a problem with the stock cooler.

I was driving along a icy range road and my cooler circuit decided it was crap out leading to my ATF and Coolant mixing and of course causing my trans. too slip to the point where it wouldn't move. I have worked on Automatics before but not to the extent I have on Manuals, where shit like this doesn't usually happen.

I have looked into my options:
1. Replace the Radiator which are $200 for a shitty one here from the Auto Parts stores. Where they are $80 shipped online.

2. Recirculate the Trans. cooler line back into the trans deleting the cooler. It is (-20c)-(-40c) right now and will be for four months to come. And then cap the Rad.

3. Burn the Jeep down and forget it was ever a part of my life.

*Transmission would obviously be flushed and then refilled with ATF after doing 1 or 2.

How much damage is caused by coolant getting at the clutch packs? It most likely won't be reliable after I flush it and put some new Dextron in it? Should I take the chance, or just wait and find another AW4 for it and order a Rad online.

I had this happen in my 89. Aw4 trans. you might be ok. I removed radiator, un hooked lines at the trans and blew them out. Dropped the trans pan and cleaned it well. I changed the filter but its really just a screen. Hooked everything back up and installed new radiator. and flushed the system twice ( have a fluid exchanger at the shop I work at). That was about 6000 miles ago and no problems since, I do have a aux cooler along with the factory one. I had water in my trans for almost 200 miles and it didn't really show on the dipstick, I tracked down weird shift problems, finally drained the trans to pull the pan to inspect the solenoids and strawberry milk came out!

Mine happened out of nowhere. I check the fluids before driving more than 100km in any of my vehicles. I did drive about 140km on the hwy before hitting rush hour in Edmonton. Then headed out to the country on a range road and literally as soon I turned on the range road it started slipping. It was "fine" one second and then crapped out.

Go with #2 and make sure trans survived. If it did, either replace radiator or add external cooler.

winterbeater said:

Go with #2 and make sure trans survived. If it did, either replace radiator or add external cooler.

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this.

do not run the trans for an extended period without the cooler.
chances are the aw4 is just fine, they're stout.

I would add that routing the transmission fluid through the radiator provides cooling in hot weather, it also provides head in cold weather...to help the transmission warm up faster. Not sure it would be detrimental, but just thought I'd throw that out there.

I would get several gallons of ATF and flush several times or one long flush. When the new ATF comes out let it run for a while.

You should also use some sort of flushing agent, separate chemicals that not only helps flush out the coolant, but also removes new chemicals created from mixing coolant with the ATF. What happens, bonding agents (glue type substances) are created that potentially stick or glue parts of the transmission together, such as clutch packs. If not loosened up and flushed out may cause permanent damage to the transmission.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/911-TRANS-A...Parts_Accessories&hash=item4615bb4230&vxp=mtr

http://www.lubegard.com/~/C-178/LUBEGARD+Transmission+Flush

http://www.lubegard.com/home.aspx

Or you could take it to a shop with a flushing machine that is knowledgeable about flushing transmissions that have been compromised by coolant.

After flushing the mixture of coolant and ATF out of the transmission (and any substances stuck to parts inside the transmission).

All that may be needed is to route the cooler lines to another radiator (without any leaks).

If low on funds I might first go to the JY to see what's available.

For around ~$200.00 you can get a new heavy duty Alum. or Copper/Brass radiator such as CSF, etc.

I also might add an inline filter such as Magnefine (~$15.00) ... these come with a bypass valve and will trap additional materials that eventually loosen up and start to float around in the ATF.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/INLINE-3-8-...Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cdbc89fe8&vxp=mtr

Flyfisher is right. Definitely have it pass through the radiator. Having your trans run too cold can cause damage just like having it over heat.

87manche said:

this.

do not run the trans for an extended period without the cooler.
chances are the aw4 is just fine, they're stout.

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I have run both my AW4's with only an external cooler. I did the first 10 years ago on the 90 XJ, and the second 4 years ago with the 88 MJ. both have trans temp gauges, both run around 150F max...unless I'm hitting it hard, towing or crawling... then the temp can get up around 220.

Flyfisher said:

I would add that routing the transmission fluid through the radiator provides cooling in hot weather, it also provides heat in cold weather...to help the transmission warm up faster. Not sure it would be detrimental, but just thought I'd throw that out there.

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I would agree that running the radiator circuit adds heat to the tranny in cold weather, but I still refuse to believe that my tranny fluid can be cooled to 150F by surrounding it in 200F coolant. In below freezing and below I would keep the radiator loop, but it's cold here tonight (about +50).

As far as the original question...replace the radiator, include the hoses thru the radiator Option #1