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8.25 Regear Question

S

Spokes

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Nj
Hey guys I've got a question about regearing an 8.25.

So long story short I bought all motive ring and pinion gears and master install kits and paid a shop to install them. Well the shop, A to Z fabrication in Pa, ****ed up the install and told me I gave them bad parts and it was my fault and to go pound sand :doh: so when they did the install on the 8.25 they ground the ring gear teeth down to flush damn near to clear the pin. The rear axle failed after about 1200 miles and the front after about 3000. so clearly those idiots didn't know what they were doing. Now I know some people say you have to grind the teeth and others say you don't.

I have a friend who is a very good mechanic and has offered to do/teach me with installing my new gears... But I'm wondering can I buy another carrier to offset the ring gear to clear the pin? I'm going to 4.56. I have the front carrier already but I don't want to grind the ring gear in the rear to fit the pin.

Thanks!
 
I think I have told you at least twice now...No. And even if they did make an offset 8.25 carrier you would still be in the same situation!

Grinding the ring gear is perfectly acceptable and is done all the time, it wasn't the cause of your failure...

Also like I said on jeepfourm I believe they make a notched pin to clear the ring gear now..

Edit: Google tells me the notched pin only works if you run an open carrier... so do you want an open diff or man up and grind a bit of tooth away?... FYI; I have a no slip on 35s with 4:56s for the last 5 years.... Gears look new and they are Motives and they are grinded!
 
Last edited:
whitexj98 said:
I think I have told you at least twice now...No. And even if they did make an offset 8.25 carrier you would still be in the same situation!

Grinding the ring gear is perfectly acceptable and is done all the time, it wasn't the cause of your failure...

Also like I said on jeepfourm I believe they make a notched pin to clear the ring gear now..

Edit: Google tells me the notched pin only works if you run an open carrier... so do you want an open diff or man up and grind a bit of tooth away?... FYI; I have a no slip on 35s with 4:56s for the last 5 years.... Gears look new and they are Motives and they are grinded!
Click to expand...


I couldn't find the old post so I made a new one. And the amount of grinding they did was excessive. As for the notched pin I've heard they fail easy. Ill look into it more though.
 
If you are having a shop do a gear install, always, always, always have them supply the parts. That way if the parts are bad then it is their fault, if it is a bad install it is their fault. Just take your buddy up on the offer to help you out and take it as a (hard) lesson learned.
 
Bryan C. said:
If you are having a shop do a gear install, always, always, always have them supply the parts. That way if the parts are bad then it is their fault, if it is a bad install it is their fault. Just take your buddy up on the offer to help you out and take it as a (hard) lesson learned.
Click to expand...

This. Never bring your own parts. ALWAYS go through the shop.
 
grinding a tooth is a common practice.

it sounds like your trying to avoid doing so to fix a problem it has no influence on.

but what im wondering... is after the rear axle went south, you continued to drive on it for another 1800 miles?
 
VAhasnoWAVES said:
grinding a tooth is a common practice.

it sounds like your trying to avoid doing so to fix a problem it has no influence on.

but what im wondering... is after the rear axle went south, you continued to drive on it for another 1800 miles?
Click to expand...

I swapped out the axle and scrapped the one that was geared to 4.56 it was useless. The thing got so hot i was concerned that the housing was weakened. I found another 8.25 with a dif gaurd, raised shock mounts and full new brakes and hardware for $100 so it was a no brainer to swap it in. So i drove the jeep in 2wd thinking the front was fine and one day it just started to make a ton of noise. threw it up on the lift at work and the thing was shot. ton of yoke slop. So now it sits in my driveway. Hasta
 
take a picture of the excessive grinding.

i regeared/ground down over a dozen 8.25's without failure.
 
Yeah my 4.56 geared 8.25 required minimal grinding. You wouldn't even know anything had been ground down unless you looked pretty close.

While I don't think it had anything to do with your failure, I'd like to see pics as well....

I'm kinda surprised to hear that a shop like AtoZ fab would pull that kinda stunt.
 
It's all about clocking the ring to the carrier to ensure that you only have to grind one tooth versus two. But yeah, it's essential for sure on 4.56 and up. It's been years since I did 4.10's in my old 2wd but I'm pretty sure we ground a tooth for that too.

Make sure you and your friend know about the carrier bearing tool you need. They're easy to make but essential for setting preload. I'd recommend making two if you've got the materials because it makes the fine adjustments a lot easier.
 
Minimal grinding I wouldn't mind. This is way more than minimal. The housing got so hot you couldn't even touched it. A to Z fab had no idea what they were doing and ****ed it up. You can see discoloration in the pinion and this is only about 1k miles on it. The rear failed about 300 miles after this.







As for when I do the next Regear I am going to use a notched cross pin if I can't get the stock one back in.
 
just clock he ring gear so you only need to grind one tooth, a lot stonger then a notched cross pin
 
You can clock it. Iirc I think mine had minimal grinding on one tooth, I don't have any close up pics....

I've never heard of a notched pin, and not sure how I'd feel about using one...
 
Just like I said in post 10, it's all about clocking it. That shop did a lazy job putting the ring gear on the carrier. That said, the grinding of 3 teeth is probably not what caused the failure.
 
Well grinding 3 teeth I found, could actually be much better. If you have one tooth only lined up direct in the way of the shaft, then you can at times have to remove a Significant portion of that one tooth. If you align it (odds allowing) between 2 teeth, then you have to remove much less from the tooth (yes its two though). If you can clock for between 2 then I found that what you have to remove never even gets close to the pattern. One tooth is much deeper and longer grinding and in to the pattern if a 4.88.

Just in my experiences.
 
RWKHausSupply said:
Well grinding 3 teeth I found, could actually be much better. If you have one tooth only lined up direct in the way of the shaft, then you can at times have to remove a Significant portion of that one tooth. If you align it (odds allowing) between 2 teeth, then you have to remove much less from the tooth (yes its two though). If you can clock for between 2 then I found that what you have to remove never even gets close to the pattern. One tooth is much deeper and longer grinding and in to the pattern if a 4.88.

Just in my experiences.
Click to expand...


This is what I did. It worked well.
 
The 4x4 Jeep shop I use doesn't care if you supply the parts of they do as long as they OK them before install, as any decent shop should. I used Motive Gears and Master install kits from Rustys Off Road good prices for the D30/Chy 8.25. The shop told me the install kits were top notch also when they did the gears (4.56's) I had them install Detroit Lockers in both the cost was $200 per differential for gear and locker.

The shop has been around for almost 25 yrs. and does good work for a fair price and stands behind it. To many of these Half-Azzed shops giving others a bad name for there shoddy work.
 
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