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Front DS and T-Case noise

kc_eiland

kc_eiland

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Las Vegas
So I've noticed a "clicking" noise from the under the drivers side/transfer case area of my Jeep when rolling. The noise sounds like bad u-joints. I shook and rolled the front drive shaft and noticed a little u-joint play at the transfer case(enough to justify changing it)... but I also noticed the clicking/tinking sound from what appears to be the transfer case (front DS area) during rotation of the DS. The Jeep is on the ground and parked, and when hitting the "stop" of the rotation the "tinking" noise happens.

Any thoughts? Could this just be my bad u-joints making this noise or should I take my t-case apart to investigate?

Thanks in advance.
 
This is a 2000 4.0 Sport with a 231. SYE installed about 2 years ago and problem started about a month ago.
 
Update, I removed the front DS and replaced the Ujoint (Ujoint was quiet/smooth in rotation). As soon as the front DS was out, I rotated the front yoke on the t-case and the noise is there, so its definitely the t-case. Its like a clicking/clanking noise.

The bummer part of it all is that this is my DD, so removing/opening t-case, finding what parts need ordered, waiting for shipping, then rebuilding/reinstalling t-case may take a while. Might be time to upgrade....
 
When you turn the front driveshaft, the chain, chain sprockets, and front output shaft bearings all turn. Clicking is often the front driveshaft double cardan. While it could be the transfer case, does the noise occur with the driveshaft removed? There is no danger is running the Jeep with the front driveshaft removed.
 
md21722 said:
When you turn the front driveshaft, the chain, chain sprockets, and front output shaft bearings all turn. Clicking is often the front driveshaft double cardan. While it could be the transfer case, does the noise occur with the driveshaft removed? There is no danger is running the Jeep with the front driveshaft removed.
Click to expand...

Yes, I spun the front DS output yoke WITHOUT the front DS installed and the t-case was making the noise. I never reinstalled the DS... hell, I haven't even driven it so I'm no sure if the noise exist with just the rear DS connected or not. I'll check it.

I don't know if I want to just order parts for the t-case (chain and rebuild kit) or just wait to upgrade and keep my fingers crossed that it doesn't fail before I save enough...
 
Get the parts now while you're still able to drive it.

You'll need a new chain (common wear item), complete rebuild kit (bearings and seals), small parts kit (has needed spring clips and thrust washers for the planetary) and a tube of ultra grey RTV (love that stuff...makes you look like your work is factory work). You might consider getting the range fork as well as the wear pads on it are not replaceable (only the older 231's had replaceable wear pads on the range fork..the newer ones are stronger and last longer). The mode fork will likely be fine but if you want to have everything in hand, get it too...its not too expensive. Its unlikely that the main shaft or the "gears" are bad unless the box has been severely neglected.

If you've done any sort of regular oil changes on the box, this is all you will need...

Master rebuild kit - http://www.ebay.com/itm/271007285301
1" wide chain - http://www.ebay.com/itm/220465244395
Small parts kit - http://www.ebay.com/itm/141190458372
Range fork - http://www.ebay.com/itm/221024315281

Total price 182.75

Factor this price plus your labor against the cost of what you would upgrade to.

I just saw you are in vegas. You can probably drive over to this place and get what you need tomorrow for a few more dollars if you are so inclined.
http://www.drivetrainpartslasvegas.com/category_s/2017.htm
they are on 3614 North Rancho Drive.
 
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Holy Hell n5xl!!!! That was more than helpful, thanks. I've made a few calls today to see if any shops in Vegas have 231 parts on hand to eliminate ordering a bunch of random stuff that I may not need. I really wanted to either "repair" my current 231 for >$300, or save up to replace with something a little better. But I think I'll just stick to repairing my current and save up for something cool, something I can look at.... like a rear bumper with tire carrier.
 
One thing I forgot to add is that if the chain has severely stretched and is sagging, there is a possibility that its sagging on top of the oil pump input screen. When this happens, it eats holes in the screen. I doubt this is the case if its got a fresh SYE kit installed, however, if you are belt and suspenders kind of guy, you might want to have an input filter on hand just in case. Dont pay more than 10 dollars for one and you can get them for a lot less with careful shopping. http://www.libertytruckandauto.com/partinfo.php?id=NV16217. And the last thing you might want to consider...putting in a new oil pump. http://www.ebay.com/itm/NP-231-233-...MP-JEEP-DODGE-CHEVY-GM-M-351500-/201055202426 Both the filter and the pump will add about 35 to 40 dollars to your rebuild, putting you in the $210-220 dollar range and well under your 300 dollar limit. After all this, your 231 will be factory fresh. Tangent topic, but important nonetheless to your rebuild...have some fun and do some reading on the fluid people use in the 231. The factory calls for a Dextron fill...HOWEVER...a lot of people feel any ATF lacks proper gear lubrication qualities in the 231 and leads to the chain stretch problem and other long term longevity issues. Novak (and numerous others) have reported success with a switch to engine oil instead of Dextron. Everyone loves a good oil debate and the discussions continue about what oil / fluid is best in the 231. You could probably spend days reading about all the pros and cons. If any of this causes you concern, I would suggest an alternative to Dextron or engine oil (or who knows what else) is Redline D4 ATF. As an ATF, it satisfies what the NP/NV engineers intended to be in the box (viscosity profile is good for the oil pump and good for the syncro engagement) and its GL-4 rated additives are what you would normally find in lubricants intended for gearboxes (good for the chain, sprockets and bearings). I think it and maybe Amsol are the only GL-4 rated ATFs available (not entirely sure about Amsol...do your research). Its pricey however, so pick your poison appropriately.
 
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BTW, did you put the SYE in it or do you know if the 231 had been beefed up when the SYE was put in? I say this because it is possible to upgrade the 231 internals by changing out the planetary to a 6 gear planetary (stock is 3) and adding a wider chain. If the chain is the wider one, you need to know that ahead of time to order the correct replacement. If you are sure its "stock", then you need the 1" chain mentioned already.
 
Thanks again n5xl. I did the SYE myself, and didn't upgrade anything else in the transfer case.

Now which oil I'm going to use, I haven't decided yet. Was kicking around the idea of a high quality synthetic 5W30 or just sticking to a quality ATF that the manufacture recommends. I'll cross that "oil" bridge when I get there.

As for the pump/screen, if the chain is loose, I'm not sure it's THAT loose to cause any massive wear as the noise has only started about a month ago. I haven't used 4WD since (except to see if it will engage to help isolate my noise) and it did. I guess I'll cross that bridge when I open it up and see what's going on.
 
I have several over 200K jeeps that have all had ATF in their cases. Unless you run it low on fluid it's not a problem.

You did the SYE right? You can do it again. If it were mine and it were my DD I'd go to the junkyard, pull a case. Split it, make sure it's internals were good and then swap my SYE bits to it. Then you can rebuild/upgrade the internals on your other case at your leisure. it's good to have a spare one kicking around anyhow.
 
87manche said:
I have several over 200K jeeps that have all had ATF in their cases. Unless you run it low on fluid it's not a problem.

You did the SYE right? You can do it again. If it were mine and it were my DD I'd go to the junkyard, pull a case. Split it, make sure it's internals were good and then swap my SYE bits to it. Then you can rebuild/upgrade the internals on your other case at your leisure. it's good to have a spare one kicking around anyhow.
Click to expand...

I thought of picking a used one from a junkyard but they want too much for them (around $350-450). So to hell with that. Thats what I based my >$300 budget off of. I did the SYE on it about 2 years ago and have been running ATF, but recently discovered some guys were using high quality synthetic 5W30 with good results. Im still undecided on what im going to fill it back up with afterwards tho.
 
no pull a part near you? T case is so easy to drop with hand tools that it's a prime pull it yourself piece for me.
 
87manche said:
no pull a part near you? T case is so easy to drop with hand tools that it's a prime pull it yourself piece for me.
Click to expand...

There are, but they want a ridiculous amount for them. Im not trying to spend more than $300 on a STOCK used transfer case. These junkyards/pull-a-parts around Vegas seem to be pretty proud of their Jeep parts provided the prices their asking.

Id rather just save up and upgrade to something like an Atlas if the price is going to exceed $300.
 
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