Need input for my XJ build up?

Ok I posted a while ago that I bought another XJ to build. It's an '88 with the 4.0 and AW4. :cheers:
So I need some input from the NWC crew on most everything.
Here's my overview:
Build toward serious trails, with snow and rock capabilities.
33's
Long arms and I'll build these.
Doubler
Axles upgrade
Lockers
Armored up
Winch
Keeping the 4.0 for now but might pick up a 4.8 Chevy and 4L80e combo later, either way not going to run any high hp setup.

So how much lift is right? I've looked around and can't really get a reliable answer. I don't want to hack at the body too much if at all. I'm thinking 4.5" or 6". It looks like 6" will allow good tire clearance but that seem tall, but that's at least what I run in the other rig and it doesn't seem tall.

What's the best doubler setup option? Starting out with the current 231, and I have a D300 laying around.

What axles and width? I've seen full widths look good and look way too wide. Not opposed to cutting them down to XJish width. My thought here is something simple like a narrowed D44 and a 12bolt from a 1/2 Chev/GMC. Like I said not going to be running large tires or high hp. Maybe even a Tacoma rear and a Chev D44 front narrowed to match. Then the D300 would not need to be flipped. Oh I want to try to run 6 bolt pattern so I can swap between rigs. :looney:

So I'm ready to start picking out/parts ??????????????

For 33s, and Long arms.. I think 4-5" lift is optimal..

Your GM swap sounds Interesting, 4.8/4l80e/D300 with 12bolt/D44 would be pretty neat

:clap: yea!

lift, I say 4.5-5 inch for 33s


doubler, .... Atlas 4 speed. Nathen did a 231 doubler

I say flip the 300 and run that, that way you can run the same driveline front and rear.

Axles, I don't like the idea of the Dana 44. Because you throw a bunch of money at it just to put 37-38s on it and be back in the same boat as your Dana 30 and 33-35s

I know guys are happy with a 44 front setup but most of them end up spending money on Chromoly axle shafts

With that being said I have a 44/8.8 for my jeep I need to swap in (got them in a CL trade deal 5.13s and Detroit's)

If i was going to build a set of axles I would do what Scott's doing 1ton and try to suck them in a little no need for chromoly shafts when you have 35 splines

But if something falls in your lap ( like mine) then so be it.

Chevy 6 lug would be cool, Chevy fronts are cheaper then ford. And no Dana 300 flip


I know whatever you put together will be a cool rig :looney:

A doubler seems like overkill paired with 33's. For the "serious" trails around here, where deep gearing and mega axles are needed, you'll need something more like 37's.
As far as doublers go though, the Behemoth Strongbox looks awesome; I like that it can be mated to the NP231.

paddlernate said:

A doubler seems like overkill paired with 33's. For the "serious" trails around here, where deep gearing and mega axles are needed, you'll need something more like 37's.
As far as doublers go though, the Behemoth Strongbox looks awesome; I like that it can be mated to the NP231.

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I run a double case setup on my current wheeler and wouldn't want to not have that option. Well I've seen lots of guys run D30's with no issues and even less with a D44. I don't drive with a heavy pedal. For "Serious trails" as in boulder fields I'm guessing you are referring too, I'll save that for a buggy build with 39's because why would you use a frameless full bodied 4x4 to beat up on the rocks, just saying. I want to be able to drive it, street legal and have fun without the worry of major breakage. That's why the D44/12 Bolt came to mind, cheap running gear but heavy duty enough to be reliable with 33's and maybe 36's in the snow.

R.DesJardin said:

I run a double case setup on my current wheeler and wouldn't want to not have that option. Well I've seen lots of guys run D30's with no issues and even less with a D44. I don't drive with a heavy pedal. For "Serious trails" as in boulder fields I'm guessing you are referring too, I'll save that for a buggy build with 39's because why would you use a frameless full bodied 4x4 to beat up on the rocks, just saying. I want to be able to drive it, street legal and have fun without the worry of major breakage. That's why the D44/12 Bolt came to mind, cheap running gear but heavy duty enough to be reliable with 33's and maybe 36's in the snow.

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I think he missed your "33s" comment..

With 33s.. Even a 44 is overkill.. And overkill is underrated.. DO IT! :clap:

I'm running about 5-5 1/2" on 36" iroks, but taking it up ~1" fwiw....

I'd do the 44 if you can swing it, that way you only have to deal with axles once! Wish I could have!!

Crawl box/ atlas would be great for a lot of things too. Once my cage is done and 44 is in the front I'll be getting an atlas 4 speed like ruger81's

paddlernate said:

A doubler seems like overkill paired with 33's.

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While a doubler might be overkill, I think the extra gearing is worth it. I was actually considering going with an Atlas 4.3:1, with my old setup on 33's if I stayed with it (got a new plan now). I look at gearing much like lockers, a tool to increase off-road performance. There's many situations where the extra crawl ratio will allow you to run through an obstacle much easier than without (added torque). There's also times where the extra gearing is pretty much a requirement to continue (snow). Those of us with auto's can kinda cheat this most of the time (pedal dance in a manual trans rig).

R.DesJardin said:

So I need some input from the NWC crew on most everything.
33's (Plus Beadlocks)
Long arms and I'll build these. (Three Link)
Doubler (231-300 "Box4Rocks")
Axles upgrade (HP44 / 8.8)
Lockers (ARB / Grizzly)
Armored up (Yes please)
Winch (Warn 9Klb, pick your flavor)

So how much lift is right? ~5" seems perfect for 33's. That's about what I ran whith 33's and it always felt super stable.

What's the best doubler setup option? Since you have a 231 and a 300, the simple thing to do would be a 231/300 combo. The "Box4Rocks" kit comes to mind, which mates the 231's planetaries to the 300's main case. Down side would be driveline mods (long front, shorty rear), some floor mods, and flipping the 300.

What axles and width?
I vote narrowed HP44 and 8.8. I really like the peace of mind you get with hubs on the front. Combine that with larger ball joints, brakes, bearings, and ring gear. It would be a solid front end for how you want to use this rig for sure.

For the rear I'd go Ford 8.8. They're a solid axle with 3" tubes, and disc brakes. Not a overly large pumpkin that's going to be an anchor on the trail. To build it up I'd toss a Yukon Super 8.8 kit in (eliminates the C-clips, and gives you alloy shafts for 5x5.5), full case Grizzly, and truss the housing.

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I love contemplating new builds, so that's my .02. Add a RailII shifter in there too.

paddlernate said:

As far as doublers go though, the Behemoth Strongbox looks awesome; I like that it can be mated to the NP231.

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This is what I have In the MJ mated to a built 231, they also have options for the 300.

Well I started ordering parts, used 6" front springs, XJ frame rail reinforcement from Ruffstuff, square tube adapters for the front link suspension. Slow start but it's a start.
I'm kicking around an 8.8 rear since it actually a pretty strong diff and has the disc brake option. Then I just need to build up some kind of front setup.

I would like to point out a couple of things. I went atlas 4speed for a few reasons
One being the choice of gearing 2.72 4.3 (10.34) 2.72 is the planetary set also Stock Cherokee low which is nice for 80 percent of wheeling the 4.3 cause that's a lot lower than stock and sometimes needed Dustin brought up a good points and finally the over all I have 37 and 4:88 I can cruise down the highway easily @ 80(nick and Scott have seen it) and when I'm off road I make up the difference
The third ment all the difference to me it is drivlines lots of people spend tons on shafts I run two auto front shafts cheap everyone has them and when push comes to it I have a spare that I can use on either end. For the money on the doublers and the fact you need to have custom shafts done. Atlas 4speed is the way I went