U Joints?

I have a 2000 XJ front driveline is stock D30. The pinion seal is leaking and the axle end of ujoint on drive shaft is loose / bad. Figure I will replace both this weekend.
My question is... I went to Oreilly's to get the parts. The kid at the counter seemed bewildered. He looked in their system and it "APPEARED" the diff end is the same part number as the Transfer case end? Does this sound correct. I figured while apart I will replace both. If it helps he gave me MasterPro their part number is 369???

I'd like to be sure I have correct parts before I take it apart

Thanks in Advance,

Are you wanting to replace the drive shaft u-joints or the axle u-joints?

When I look on their website, it looks like MasterPro 371 or 377 are for the axle shafts and 369 x3 would be all three joints in the drive shaft.

5-153x Spicer. Or NEAPCO only... The rest of the part store brands are asking for trouble.

xjintx said:

I have a 2000 XJ front driveline is stock D30. The pinion seal is leaking and the axle end of ujoint on drive shaft is loose / bad. Figure I will replace both this weekend.
My question is... I went to Oreilly's to get the parts. The kid at the counter seemed bewildered. He looked in their system and it "APPEARED" the diff end is the same part number as the Transfer case end? Does this sound correct. I figured while apart I will replace both. If it helps he gave me MasterPro their part number is 369???

I'd like to be sure I have correct parts before I take it apart

Thanks in Advance,

Click to expand...

Both ends of the driveshaft use the same u-joint

Might want to check for play in the pinion first. You'll have to pull it to replace the seal, but can be replaced if you torque to the same spec. If the pinion is wobbly you are looking at a replacement pinion which means gears have to be setup again. IIRC.

Your jeep only has 2 types of ujoints

front axle shaft - 5-760X
Drive shaft - 5-1310X

The 5-153X is a greaseable version of the 1310X.

For pinion deal- If you have s low pinion axle, you have a crush sleeve design and need to measure pinion rolling torque with the brakes removed before loosening the pinion nut. Inspect the yolk for wear and replace if necessary. Tighten the nut carefully so as not to exceed the rolling torque measured prior to removal.

make sure the pinion has not end play and turns smoothly. If it has end play or roughness your problems are past the seal and you'll need to dig deeper.

MD21722 thanks for the quick answers. I've been reading the LPD30 seal replacement. Seems there are two schools of thought. The measuring of rolling torque and just marking the pinion nut so replaced the same. I know the second and replacing with new nut is far best but wonder how bad the marking nut style is? I have to do in my garage with no lift so a bit of a PIA. No idea what a shop would charge

Beam type torque wrenches are $50. I heard Parks Bike tools may even be less. Why not try it both ways and see? A lift is not real important. You will probably need a 3/4" breaker bar and at least a 3 foot pipe. I use 3/4" drive because 1/2" breaker bars have too much deflection.

Before you change the seal, look at the surface it's riding on.
I was haunted by a leaky seal problem, and the yoke only showed a little pitting.
I used fine sandpaper to clean it up, and it still leaked.

Many here told me to simply replace the yoke.
It was good advise.

So before just swapping seals, think about sourcing a new yoke to boot.
Yes, it's an extra $40, but you won't have to do the job twice

And if you are just replacing the yoke and not resetting preload or replacing the bearings, do not attempt to get to the gazillions ft/lb spec. If you crush the slieve, the preload will probably be too tight and you'll have to source a new one and start over.
100ft lbs with a normal length wrench will be enough. Do not use an air gun; not because you may over torque, but because it hammers the gears.

I do not think this advise is correct for a crush sleeve design. Procedure is to measure old rolling torque, remove the nut, change the pinion, and tighten until old rolling torque is achieved. This will require 1/4 then 1/8 turns to get things right because preload changes fast once its close.