Stripped lug nut

heshhash · Dec 17, 2014

So, aluminum honeycombs with those stupid &(;()&&&(;($&&;

$&)( stock lug nuts that have the metal over them. Cap came off and the nut underneath is stripped, WTF! I just had them off 2 weeks ago when i redid the back brakes. I am so damn pissed right now. I am crawling in water and slop trying to get the tire off, broke 2 snapon sockets trying to hammer in on. Any clever ideas?

xcm · Dec 17, 2014

try these

Digger87xj · Dec 17, 2014

When the chrome cap comes off, an 18mm socket fits perfectly.

heshhash · Dec 17, 2014

The nut under the cap was already stripped. I am really wished i had replaced them all with normal lug nuts when i bought it, as well as junking these aluminum rims. Had some many years ago, and swore i would never use them again. If i didn't have the matching spare i would have. Time to start saving for some steelies. Up north here with snow/salt aluminum rims have no place imo.

ehall · Dec 17, 2014

Very first thing I bought for my beater was new lug nuts

5108696 · Dec 24, 2014

ehall said:
Very first thing I bought for my beater was new lug nuts

I had the same problem.
After cutting the inner nuts off with an air chisel - not necessary or recommended- I drilled out the lug stud until it fractured.

You will need a few of each size starting with 1/8 in up through 1/2 in in 1/8 in increments. After ruining several bits at low speed in the beginning, I ran the drill up to high speed and they cut like a samari.

Buying high quality- high speed steel bits will save you much time, effort, and money.

Rick
https://onedrive.live.com/?cid=9EF666F89D644D14&id=9EF666F89D644D14%213601&v=3

GrimmJeeper · Dec 24, 2014

xcm said:
try these

cheap and they work excellent

5108696 · Dec 24, 2014

GrimmJeeper said:
cheap and they work excellent

I agree that they normally work on everything, however on this. Not...

Using a minimal length 1/2" drive extension, a breaker bar, and a 3' piece of pipe, I snapped a Snap On (no pun intended) adapter in two and got a huge bruise / knot on my elbow when it impacted with the fender....

I would def try that first, but Drilling was the only way to remove the TWO stripped nuts.

Rick

Kingkong0192 · Dec 25, 2014

If they're aluminum rims you can cut the studs right out with a cutting torch. Pretty quick. Just need to pull the hub off and drop in new studs after that.

heshhash · Dec 25, 2014

Couldn't find those irwin ones, so i went with craftsman.
http://m.craftsman.com/craftsman-10-pc-impact-grade-bolt-out-trade-damaged/p-00952165000P

Little more expensive, but i am sure i will use them again.

heshhash · Dec 25, 2014

Here is the finish~

Wayne Sihler · Dec 25, 2014

While this is of little help now, a little anti-seize between the hub and rim will help with removal next time.

ehall · Dec 25, 2014

good game

87manche · Dec 25, 2014

5108696 said:
I agree that they normally work on everything, however on this. Not...

Using a minimal length 1/2" drive extension, a breaker bar, and a 3' piece of pipe, I snapped a Snap On (no pun intended) adapter in two and got a huge bruise / knot on my elbow when it impacted with the fender....

I would def try that first, but Drilling was the only way to remove the TWO stripped nuts.

Rick

sounds like the bolt grip worked perfectly, it was your adapter that failed.

xcm · Dec 25, 2014

Kingkong0192 said:
If they're aluminum rims you can cut the studs right out with a cutting torch. Pretty quick. Just need to pull the hub off and drop in new studs after that.

Out of safety, NEVER, evah evah EVER! cut the lug nuts off a wheel, or apply that kinda heat to a wheel.... the tire may burst catastrophically, without warning. Dont beleive me? check youtube.

As far as hammering on sockets, that does usually work, must be the low quality of your snap-on sockets =)

Back on topic of the stripped nut removers i posted above, they come in SAE and metric sets, if youve got both, its much easier to find one that fits tight, as you'll have half-sizes as well. ie 1/2 fits much tighter on a 13mm bolt than the 13mm would, etc.

heshhash · Dec 25, 2014

Wayne Sihler said:
While this is of little help now, a little anti-seize between the hub and rim will help with removal next time.

With aluminum i always antisieze the backside. I had one on my dodge that i beat on with a 8' 4x4 for over 3 hours before it let loose. Can just imagine what the neighbors were thinking~

5108696 · Dec 26, 2014

Kingkong0192 said:
If they're aluminum rims you can cut the studs right out with a cutting torch. Pretty quick. Just need to pull the hub off and drop in new studs after that.

Please tell me you're not serious...

I suppose if you don't intend to reuse the alum rim you can simply melt a big hole out around the stud through which the whole stud and nut will easily pass through....

If the specialty sockets don't work, drill the stud out. It really isn't that difficult.

Rick

Hypoid · Dec 26, 2014

xcm said:
Out of safety, NEVER, evah evah EVER! cut the lug nuts off a wheel, or apply that kinda heat to a wheel.... the tire may burst catastrophically, without warning. Dont beleive me? check youtube.

Like this guy???

Long before I heard of Pyrolysis, I used a torch to burn out a stripped stud. I told the owner I would not use the aluminum wheel after having that much heat applied to it. Maybe I should go buy a lotto ticket, maybe aluminum and steel have different properties.

5108696 said:
I suppose if you don't intend to reuse the alum rim you can simply melt a big hole out around the stud through which the whole stud and nut will easily pass through.

That sounds as effective as cutting stainless with an Oxy-Acetylene torch.

I do agree that using excessive Temperatures and BTUs is the least desirable option. Then again, I use words like "torch," "sledge hammer," and "finesse" in the same sentence, often.

need-a-bow · Dec 26, 2014

heshhash said:
Couldn't find those irwin ones, so i went with craftsman.
http://m.craftsman.com/craftsman-10-pc-impact-grade-bolt-out-trade-damaged/p-00952165000P

Little more expensive, but i am sure i will use them again.

FYI they are made in the same plant in Elmhurst IL, as Snap-On my company sells the manufacturer abrasives and ive done a few walk throughs. They hold the patent to those, so the only difference is the stamping on the side.

5108696 · Dec 27, 2014

Hypoid said:
Like this guy???

Long before I heard of Pyrolysis, I used a torch to burn out a stripped stud. I told the owner I would not use the aluminum wheel after having that much heat applied to it. Maybe I should go buy a lotto ticket, maybe aluminum and steel have different properties.

That sounds as effective as cutting stainless with an Oxy-Acetylene torch.

I do agree that using excessive Temperatures and BTUs is the least desirable option. Then again, I use words like "torch," "sledge hammer," and "finesse" in the same sentence, often.

Well this changes everything.. I stand corrected. I did not realize that it had actually been done at a professional, reputable automotive service provider.:explosion

That certainly looks like a lot more fun than did my little 10 minute drill job.

Rick

Stripped lug nut

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