How to adjust steering stops?

I have just fitted 235/75/15 tyres to my stock 1993 XJ. The previous ones were 225s.

The new front tyres rub on the lower control arms at full lock. Searching the forum reveals that this is not an unfamiliar problem. It obviously depends on the positioning of the steering bump-stops on each front hub.

So far so straightforward. I had a look at mine. The bump stop on each side is a threaded bolt, with a locking nut. Fine, so I'll adjust it.....?

Ahem - not so easy. When I cleaned all the crud and rust off, I find that the locking nut is welded to the bolt. I assume this was done at the factory when it was built.

So I have a problem. How do I adjust the steering bump-stop, or remove and replace it with a longer one? Grinding or cutting won't help, as that leaves the hole in the hub still filled with the threaded stub of the bolt. Is serious heat an option? (as it's welded, I can't see how just heating the nut and/or bolt would allow the locking nut to turn in order to allow the bolt to be wound out).

I have no desire to lift the rig; I am not about to throw away four brand new tyres; and I don't have welding kit. Anyone got ideas for any other way of freeing or "extending" the steering stops? ? I'd guess they only need to project slightly (a few mm) further out to prevent the tyres rubbing.

I removed the bolt and added a washer to fix my clearance issue. Not sure about the welded bolt thing though, sounds odd to me.

http://www.4x4xplor.com/steerstop.html

That nut should be like that

Just put a wrench on it and spin it out. The nut stays with the bolt.

Thanks for those responses.

The site to which John V (Islander OffRoad) linked is really useful. The pics confirm that the nut is indeed welded to the bolt, and that this is normal.

I did try to undo the bolt.... but perhaps I didn't wrench it hard enough. I was also concerned that the locking nut might be preventing me from turning the bolt at all. But logically, the locking nut should only prevent the bolt from being tightened. if I'm trying to loosen or undo the bolt, the locking nut, which is welded on, should turn with it since it is going "outwards".

Guess I'll have to try again with a bigger wrench, and then go and get some washers!

For those types of stuck bolts I really like putting a wrench on it and then smacking the handle of the wrench with a rubber mallet to break it free. I always tend to snap bolts in those cases if I just try and muscle them off, the shock from the rubber mallet really seems to break things free without breaking.

...Of course, now I have air tools and would just hit it with an impact.

Use a good penetrating oil. And a propane torch may warm the stop up enough to get it broke free. Just use caution when heating stuff you just sprayed with penetrant (derr!) fire hazard and all.

I've never had luck with penetrating oil. I've soaked a few bolts over the years for days and when I finally got them off they were bone dry with no sign of the oil ever seeping into anything and only managing to make a mess on my floor. Maybe adding heat helps the oil but then again I've read that using heat and things like PB blaster is a very bad idea, not so much fire as the fumes it produces.

iwannadie said:

Not sure about the welded bolt thing though, sounds odd to me.

Click to expand...

That is how they are stock.

I bought a new bold an nut and adjusted by moving the bolt to where I wanted the stop then locking the nut down against the knuckle.

Talyn said:

That is how they are stock.

I bought a new bold an nut and adjusted by moving the bolt to where I wanted the stop then locking the nut down against the knuckle.

Click to expand...

Yup. I backed out the OEM bolt (w nut welded on it) and put some (3) washers under the but and screwed it back in.

Just to complete the story which I started by posting my original query.

A little penetrating oil, and a bigger wrench, did the job. I had originally assumed - or feared - that the welded-on locking nut would prevent the bolt turning either way. In fact it prevents the bolt being tightened any further to make the bump-stop shorter. But it does not stop the bolt being unwound (so that it projects further, and is thus a longer bump-stop).

So like notamos and others, I simply removed both bolts, added a couple of washers each side, and tightened them up again. Job done: my 235/75/15 tyres no longer rub against the lower control arms.

Thanks to all who offered advice!