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Vague Electrical Issue

A

ajkreppel

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Auburn Hills, MI
I have an 01, pretty much stock electric system except for the Putco harness and Hella H4 upgrade. I've been having some weird electrical issues lately, and I have no idea if they're all related or not, but I'll list all the symptoms here.

  1. aftermarket radio seems like it gets overloaded at normal volume levels and shuts itself off after the speakers start to sound distorted and the screen dims with the bass, acts normally for a few seconds after restarting and then shuts off again
  2. headlights remain on after turned off, but shut off when the car is turned off, window switch is pressed or shifter position is moved
  3. heat is definitely not working as well as last winter, but doesn't seem like a heater core issue based on the fact that it worked fine when I needed it last
  4. fan blows stronger when the accelerator is pressed, and voltage varies by a volt or two at the same time
  5. occasionally pushing the rear pass. window switch up causes the radio to shut off, but rolling it down works fine
  6. occasionally, the power locks don't work if the key is in the run position

The only two issues that I have only seen occur after the headlight upgrade is the blower issue and the headlights remaining on. I can't say whether or not the blower problem is directly related to the headlight upgrade because I wasn't using it at all before the cold weather moved in, after I did the headlights. My first guess is the alternator, but these symptoms just seem too weird to be just an alternator. Any ideas?
 
ajkreppel said:
I have an 01, pretty much stock electric system except for the Putco harness and Hella H4 upgrade. I've been having some weird electrical issues lately, and I have no idea if they're all related or not, but I'll list all the symptoms here.

  1. aftermarket radio seems like it gets overloaded at normal volume levels and shuts itself off after the speakers start to sound distorted and the screen dims with the bass, acts normally for a few seconds after restarting and then shuts off again
  2. headlights remain on after turned off, but shut off when the car is turned off, window switch is pressed or shifter position is moved
  3. heat is definitely not working as well as last winter, but doesn't seem like a heater core issue based on the fact that it worked fine when I needed it last
  4. fan blows stronger when the accelerator is pressed, and voltage varies by a volt or two at the same time
  5. occasionally pushing the rear pass. window switch up causes the radio to shut off, but rolling it down works fine
  6. occasionally, the power locks don't work if the key is in the run position

The only two issues that I have only seen occur after the headlight upgrade is the blower issue and the headlights remaining on. I can't say whether or not the blower problem is directly related to the headlight upgrade because I wasn't using it at all before the cold weather moved in, after I did the headlights. My first guess is the alternator, but these symptoms just seem too weird to be just an alternator. Any ideas?
Click to expand...


Sounds like a weak battery combined with bad grounds to the body.
 
Grounds, and the usual drivers door wire harness issues, chafed wire insulation, broken wires, short circuits. 12 volts from a shorted window/door lock wire going into the speaker wires will cause some problems, and make the head unit go into protect mode.
 
Last edited:
I believe it is a duralast gold, so maybe I should take it there and have them check it. Last time I had them check a battery, it was fine and they told me it was bad, so maybe I'll be able to get a refund even if it's still good. Then I'll buy a better one.

As far as the for harness issue goes, how would I resolve that if it's the case? Just replace the harness?
 
I lied about the battery, it's about autocraft gold, and it's still working properly. I have no idea how to go about looking for shorts in the harness. Is there a location where they typically break down?
 
Spend $6-15 at your local Hardware, Home Improvement, or WalMart type store and buy a volts/ohms multi-meter. Test wire harness continuity, and physically inspect the wire harness near the door hinges. Solder and/or insulate any problems you find.
 
I would also check your alternator. It may be getting weak. And not carrying your electrical load. Make sure your battery cables and terminals. Possibly a cracked terminal.
 
I have a multimeter I can use here, just not a good one. I'm at school in Michigan, so I have barely any tolls with me and it gets really frustrating. I'm working on expanding but I have to be cautious of buying too much. It's also really difficult not having a garage to work in, but it could be worse.

As far as the battery terminals, they themselves are fine. I keep them pretty well cleaned off, and recently replaced the connectors with brass ones so that shouldn't be an issue. The alternator is definitely suspect, as I noticed my lights get ever so slightly brighter when I give it some gas.
 
Well with the multimeter check resting voltage of the battery. Should be 12.6 volts. With that start it up. Battery should not drop below 9.5 volts cranking. After it is started battery voltage should climb to 13.5 volts-14.5 volts charging. Simple quick test.
 
Just FYI, the reason I say check your terminals very well isn't for corrosion, I chased an electrical gremlin for almost a year on another car I had and finally pulled the terminals off and really really checked them to find out one had a crack al the way through but I could not see it initially until I pried on the terminal forcing it to show. Replaced terminal, car ran great. Good luck.
 
Interesting, I'll have to check the terminals. I'll do some tests and see how the battery's doing. And I well must likely be replacing the alternator as well. $125 for a brand new ACDelco with no core charge on Rock, so it's not as bad as I thought it would be.
 
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