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Steering: from rock krawler to????

goodburbon

goodburbon

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Westcliffe Colorado.
97 XJ
I'm on 35's
About 5.5" lift
I've got rock krawler 3 link up front (clunky)
Rock Krawler bomb proof track bar (welded to custom frame stiffener and the frame)
And the Rock krawler bomb proof steering.
Drop pitman arm.

The design of the system leaves something to be desired. No bump steer and stout as hell, but I've had death wobble for the past few years, slowly getting worse. consequently the XJ hasn't racked up many miles in that time.
I've replaced the steering box, pump, increased the extent of the frame plating to include the bumper and re-tightened the drag link/tie rod to passenger knuckle several times.

I've been largely ignoring the XJ game for a few years now so I'm unfamiliar with new products. What's the best plan going forward with my steering?
 
First I'd call RK and get some replacement joints.

If you want a new steering it's getting trendy to call RuffStuff and build your own steering.
 
Well at 5.5" of lift I would assume caster is playing a large role in any DW you may have.
 
Throw away the RK garbage and look into wj swap, don't know anyone who had been happy with there steering
 
Interesting suggestions. Would WJ steering really be worth replacing my drilled out passenger knuckle and the pure beef of the RK components?

Has RK improved their joints? Would perhaps Ruff Stuff have joints to fit the RK link and tie rod? I'm thinking the passenger knuckle would have to be replaced in either scenario anyway, since the slack constantly reappearing there indicates that the hole is wallowed out.

As far as caster being an issue, it's as far as I dare to adjust it and tracks and steers well as long as it's not wobbling. It also did not start wobbling until several thousand miles after long arm install.
 
I'll say this: my XJ had WJ front brakes and that alone made it *very* worth the swap.
My WJ (duh) has WJ steering, too, and though there are a million other factors - it does seem to handle tighter than any XJ I've driven.
Also - the WJ swap uses either Rusty's, Clayton's or JKS's tie rod & track bar (get Moog or Mopar TREs) and they are generally made out of 1 3/8" OD x 1/4 wall tube. I think Clayton's is using aluminum but don't quote me. In any case... it's got all the beef I think you're looking for.

Aside from that - I think any steering system that does away with the "two heims, one bolt" type shenanigans is a good plan. I'm not a believer in single shear mounts that don't involve a tapered fit.
 
Just seems like a step backwards for some reason. Sure, I get the dual piston calipers are better, but a stock steering setup to replace a 1.5" tie rod for 5.5" lift on 35s?

Yes the single shear is the main problem and it is compounded by heims.
 
Yes, WJ swap is a crossover setup. Most common to do this is offset TRE's for the tie rod. And high angle TRE for the draglink.
 
Last edited:
The wj ends are 24mm shank, or 1/16 larger than Chevy stuff. depending on lift, high angle drag link may be unnecessary as the axle end of it is raised.

I'm not really sure if it would do the trick but in theory with enough clamping force single shear is fine. To that end, get a fine thread Allen bolt and torque to spec or pay a diesel tech to do it. Spec for a 5/8 Allen being ~300 ft lbs. That might keep it from moving, leaving quality joints and finished.
 
Well I have the RK steering and have had it for years. I love it and have no DW issues at all, no bump steer, nothing. Its nice and tight and drives great with it. I would check the knuckle and see if there is play inside the hole that had to be drilled out bigger. Maybe its gotten worn bigger.
 
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