JeepNoob
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Pueblo, Colorado
What if I told you that you could remove and replace your crank sensor in an hour or less without removing any major stuff (intake manifold, transmission cross member, etc) with tools you probably already have? Sounds impossible right? In fact, that's exactly what I did today on my '96 4.0. Here's how-
Tools I needed
-3/8" drive ratchet
-13mm socket (shouldn't need to be deep-well, but I used mine anyways)
-10mm socket
-Various 3/8" extensions (one 9", one 6", and one 3")
-Flat blade screwdriver (I didn't need one, but you might)
-Crow's feet (I needed an 11mm one)
I'm gonna touch on the last one for a minute since they're basically the key to this whole thing. Crow's feet look like the open/crescent end of a combination wrench, but with a square where the rest of the wrench should be and nothing else. As a result they're pretty short (about an inch or so.) The square is for attaching a ratchet or an extension, usually a 3/8" drive one. They're great for getting lots of torque into tight places.
Here's how I did it-
The crank sensor is located on the top of the bellhousing on the driver's side. You may have to look for it to find it, but trust me, it's there. If you're having difficulty finding it, the connector plugs into the engine wiring harness near the throttle position sensor. Trace the plastic wire conduit back and down and you should be able to see it.
You'll want to make sure your engine is completely cold since you'll be working close to the header. Wasn't much of a problem for me since the engine hadn't run in about 3 days. A long sleeve shirt that's close-fitting, but still gives you room to move might be a good idea too since there's a lot of pointy stuff looking to tear you up with this method.
First, remove your air intake or box. I have a stock air box and fittings. You might need the screwdriver to undo the clamps on the hose or the clips on the airbox, but I didn't need one. I removed the bottom of the air box by removing one nut and two bolts with my 13mm socket, ratchet, and my 9" extension.
Now here's where it gets tricky... attach your appropiately sized crow's foot to an extension. My 3" one worked fine, but I'm also 6'3" and built like a telephone pole (which might explain why I was able to do this using this method) Remember the righty-tighty, lefty-loosey rule? Well, that's as your looking at the fastener. Since you're working on the backside of these bolts, the opposite applies, so set your ratchet up to tighten (as you're looking at it) to loosen these bolts and vice-versa. Set the crow's foot up with the opening facing down and the ratchet with the handle more or less facing down as well. Next slip your arm with the ratchet, extrnsion, and crow's foot under the intake manifold using all the space you created by removing the air box. You might be able to work your other arm in there to support the crow's foot with your hand. Place the crow's foot securely on the bolts, turn the ratchet, and you should be able to break the bolts loose. Once I did this, I was pretty much able to turn the bolts with the crow's foot and an extension (no ratchet), and then with my fingers. Don't be afraid to move around a bit if you need to during this process... a few times I found myself with one knee on the front of the valve cover and the other atop the grille panel. Pull the crank sensor out of it's hole in the bellhousing, remove the one 10mm bolt that holds the plastic conduit clamp (it's near the throttle body) and you're done! Just like always, installation is the reverse of removal.
Tools I needed
-3/8" drive ratchet
-13mm socket (shouldn't need to be deep-well, but I used mine anyways)
-10mm socket
-Various 3/8" extensions (one 9", one 6", and one 3")
-Flat blade screwdriver (I didn't need one, but you might)
-Crow's feet (I needed an 11mm one)
I'm gonna touch on the last one for a minute since they're basically the key to this whole thing. Crow's feet look like the open/crescent end of a combination wrench, but with a square where the rest of the wrench should be and nothing else. As a result they're pretty short (about an inch or so.) The square is for attaching a ratchet or an extension, usually a 3/8" drive one. They're great for getting lots of torque into tight places.
Here's how I did it-
The crank sensor is located on the top of the bellhousing on the driver's side. You may have to look for it to find it, but trust me, it's there. If you're having difficulty finding it, the connector plugs into the engine wiring harness near the throttle position sensor. Trace the plastic wire conduit back and down and you should be able to see it.
You'll want to make sure your engine is completely cold since you'll be working close to the header. Wasn't much of a problem for me since the engine hadn't run in about 3 days. A long sleeve shirt that's close-fitting, but still gives you room to move might be a good idea too since there's a lot of pointy stuff looking to tear you up with this method.
First, remove your air intake or box. I have a stock air box and fittings. You might need the screwdriver to undo the clamps on the hose or the clips on the airbox, but I didn't need one. I removed the bottom of the air box by removing one nut and two bolts with my 13mm socket, ratchet, and my 9" extension.
Now here's where it gets tricky... attach your appropiately sized crow's foot to an extension. My 3" one worked fine, but I'm also 6'3" and built like a telephone pole (which might explain why I was able to do this using this method) Remember the righty-tighty, lefty-loosey rule? Well, that's as your looking at the fastener. Since you're working on the backside of these bolts, the opposite applies, so set your ratchet up to tighten (as you're looking at it) to loosen these bolts and vice-versa. Set the crow's foot up with the opening facing down and the ratchet with the handle more or less facing down as well. Next slip your arm with the ratchet, extrnsion, and crow's foot under the intake manifold using all the space you created by removing the air box. You might be able to work your other arm in there to support the crow's foot with your hand. Place the crow's foot securely on the bolts, turn the ratchet, and you should be able to break the bolts loose. Once I did this, I was pretty much able to turn the bolts with the crow's foot and an extension (no ratchet), and then with my fingers. Don't be afraid to move around a bit if you need to during this process... a few times I found myself with one knee on the front of the valve cover and the other atop the grille panel. Pull the crank sensor out of it's hole in the bellhousing, remove the one 10mm bolt that holds the plastic conduit clamp (it's near the throttle body) and you're done! Just like always, installation is the reverse of removal.
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